Hello, I wonder if you might be able to help please? I am in the process of bringing back to life a Briggs and Stratton Intek Edge 6hp that is fitted to a McCulloch self drive mower. I got it second hand and apart from the inevitable rust on the deck it seemed pretty good. Winter is coming so I've took the chance to give it a bit of maintenance whilst its resting. So all good until I replaced the carb because the previous owner had stripped the threads on the filter. All fitted but despite me connecting the governor, new spring and original throttle plate there now appears to be no movement of the carb when I move the throttle plate back and forth. The replacement carb is pretty much the same but this one has a choke built in. The spring I replaced is exactly the same length and I have looked at various linkage diagrams and all appears correct. I have removed the governor rod and spring and there is no connection between where the remote throttle control fits to the control plate and the carb itself? The model appears to be quite a rare one as far as parts go and little sign of other people having worked on them. The model is 121602-0321 and the carb is listed as a 790120 however there appears some confusion with this as some have primer hole to filter on the left and some right. Mine has the primer built into the air filter housing which evidentially is an issue in itself, having air leakage problems. The other type of carb (with the same number??) has the choke built into the carb body. Any help I would gladly appreciate. I could attempt pictures but my computer skills are somewhat lacking so be patient with me please.
briggs 6hp ohv
- Thread starter grim1
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mechanic mark
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https://www.google.com/search?
Engi...2NjEwMWowajSoAgCwAgA&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
Please note: B&S OEM Carburetor above.
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Did you learn anything about buying Amazon carbs?
How much money did you really save?
Recommend either take it to a good mower shop or clean the OEM carb yourself. I bet the entire machine needs some love. Look at youtube on carb cleaning.
Do you have good fuel flow AT the carb inlet? Drain the entire tank into a glass jar. Make sure it flows like a river. You can pour it back into the tank through a paint strainer.
How much money did you really save?
Recommend either take it to a good mower shop or clean the OEM carb yourself. I bet the entire machine needs some love. Look at youtube on carb cleaning.
Do you have good fuel flow AT the carb inlet? Drain the entire tank into a glass jar. Make sure it flows like a river. You can pour it back into the tank through a paint strainer.
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what is your code number?
121602-0321 "xx"?
should be two digits, usually a letter and number after the 0321.
121602-0321 "xx"?
should be two digits, usually a letter and number after the 0321.
Thanks all. Two digits are E1. Quick to jump to conclusions Slomo when in fact I DID NOT buy what you refer to as "Amazon carbs". Also please read my thread correctly and see that the threads were stripped on the carb so cleaning it wouldn't have made the slightest difference to the OEM carb. I have obviously checked the fuel flow and ruled that out as a reason why the replacement carb does not operate when everything else is connected as before?????
Fair play, held your hands up, so respect Slomo. I'm still holding out for someone who might be able to offer their knowledge. Just out of curiosity, is it likely to be an issue if i use a carb with choke on a system which has originally been designed to run with a primer bulb incorporated into the air filter? Do i need to isolate the primer and block off the air vent? I am guessing I do. This particular motor appears to be OEM set up for either system depending on the mowers manufacturer. Is the air filter going to be of a similar size to cope with either set up? I believe the choke carb uses a rectangular filter where mine uses the oval. This might also help alleviate any issues associated with the leaking gasket between carb and filter which appears to be a common problem?
shurguywutt
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If the original carb was working fine according to your OP, why wouldn't you just retap the threads for slightly bigger screws? You could also add teflon tape to the screws to make them fit. Seems like a lot of unnecessary work to replace a working carb because the filter screws were stripped. Sometimes you have to get creative working on older machines. JMHO. 
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So what side is the primer hole on, on your original carburetor?
Been there tried that. Not a lot of meat on carb or the air filter housing to take much bigger thread so i managed to get two nuts behind damaged area and jb welded them in. I took the carb apart so nothing untoward would happen whilst i was working on it and did proper clean up of internals. The carb prior to all this was showing signs of an issue fuel wise hence which is why it was a good time for the overhaul., but having opened it all up and found the stripped screws I think it was this that was the issue. I've just picked up a Hayter ranger engine which is almost identical to mine according to the seller however he neglected to mention he was selling carb separately but at least i'll be able to look at the throttle plate to see if anything is out of shape on mine. Strange thing is, the carb linkage holes are exactly in the same place on both the OEM and the aftermarket and I can't think for the life of me why it is that the carb shutter doesn't move at all when I operate the throttle mechanism and like I said initially it makes no difference whether the governor and spring are attached or not??? Thanks though for the input and like you make it sound, it was an obvious choice earlier on in this situation.