Briggs 44P777 Push Rods

[rrkpitt15]

2006 Husqvarna EZ5426
44P777 Briggs Engine (Extended life series)
550 hours

It all started when I accidently ran it out of gas about a month ago. I put gas in it and started it back up and it was backfiring and sounded horrible. I towed it back to the garage and did the normal maintenance stuff. New plugs, oil change, new fuel filter & pump then I took off the valve cover to adjust the valves and the exhaust push rod (stainless) was just sitting in the head not attached to anything. I pulled it out and it was bent. Pulled off the intake (aluminum) push rod and it was bent too but it was still attached. I bought some new push rods, installed it and set the tolerance (.006). Changed the oil, found no big chunks of metal so ran it.

Tractor ran for about 2 yard cuttings (about 4 hours) and then i started it sounded off again. This time it wasn't backfiring, it just sounded like it was under heavy load. Pulled the valve cover the same and both the intake and exhaust push rods were not connected. Again bought new push rods, installed them and set the tolerance.

This time I cut the grass but took two breaks to let the motor cool down. I noticed it felt like it has been run hot, I have no way to prove or track the temp but it just felt hotter than normal this summer.

Finished the grass and cleaned up the tractor before putting it away. When I went to start it to put it in the garage, the engine sounded under load again. It starts fine just under power. Pulled the same valve cover and both push rods were off again. This time the exhaust push rod is missing .

Forgot to mention, at the beginning of this summer, the motor started leaking a very small amount of oil. I think its the engine main seal/gasket.

I really don't want to buy a new tractor this season so I'm going to pull the motor and find the push rod which will have me replacing the main seal/gasket but I want to fix this push rod issue. Anyone have any idea what could cause this? It always runs fine then I shut it off and when I start it up again is when it happens. I'm going replace the rocker arms too to see if that fixes anything. Do you think the added ventilation is hurting anything other than an additional oil passage lol????

 

[ILENGINE]

I suspect that that head had overheated and the valve guides have migrated out toward the valve keepers. And when the push rod tries to open the valve the keeper hits the guide which is what is bending your push rods

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

I suspect that that head had overheated and the valve guides have migrated out toward the valve keepers. And when the push rod tries to open the valve the keeper hits the guide which is what is bending your push rods

Remove the engine shroud and check engine and cooling fins for dirt, oil, grass, and debris. Remove with screwdriver, wire brush and air compressor. Your engine has overheated, and probably run low on oil and or infrequent oil changes. If the valve guide moved, you will need to replace cylinder head for proper repair.

 

[rrkpitt15]

Remove the engine shroud and check engine and cooling fins for dirt, oil, grass, and debris. Remove with screwdriver, wire brush and air compressor. Your engine has overheated, and probably run low on oil and or infrequent oil changes. If the valve guide moved, you will need to replace cylinder head for proper repair.

Thanks for the help.

The engine never has ran low on oil. I check it each time I start it and change it ever 15-20 hours and then again when i put it away for winter.

I was reading the operating manual for the briggs engine and it states to "clean the combustion chamber" at 400 hours. How the heck do you do that?

Is there a way to check to see if the cylinder head is warped?

 

[rrkpitt15]

Need some guidance.

Never worked on a Briggs Engine (44p777) but have rebuilt some 2 stroke top and bottom ends and am pretty handy with just about anything I play with.



1st, some photos. Took off the engine shroud and I could be wrong but it doesn't look dirty enough to have blocked the cooling to the head. It does look like there could be an oil leak at the head though.



Next, what is the ordering should take things off? I'm assuming I need to take both belts off then the top nut? Does that bolt run from the top of the engine down to the drive/pto pulleys under the engine? Do I need to take the pulleys off too? Is there a way to perfectly center that bolt once I reinstall it?



After I get the main bolt that goes through the motor and connects to the drive pulley, is there anything else I need to take off before the gas/electrical/engine mounts/etc?



Basically looking for tips and tricks as this is my first time really working on a lawn mower.