I have a 2010 Troy-Bilt with a 190cc, 6.75HP Briggs - electric start. This is an auto choke model without a priming bulb. It was hard starting last season and finally decided to not start at all, by starter or by pull. I tore it down this past month. Valves are good. Some cylinder scoring. Key is intact. New head gasket. Carb cleaned and rebuilt. Engine has good compression, spark and is getting fuel. Full tank, tried to get it to fire with starting fluid. Sputtered and spit fuel from intake side of carb but also some smoke from exhaust. It seems like it wants to start but will not catch. What else do I need to look for? TIA.
Engine B&S 190CC sputters but won't start
- Thread starter pblack
- Start date
When you rebuilt carb, did you replace the float needle and seat? Plus, did you make sure that the float height was set priorly, even slightly rich? You didn't give us the engines model and type numbers, but I'm betting the kit number you need is 398188. I suggest you take the carb part again and check the float level, plus replace the float needle and seat if you have not done so. This is the procedure I use.
Needle and seat replacement
Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.
I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.
With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. *Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. *If it does, replace. *If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.
PS: *On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. *Under this cover will be an idle jet. *Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. *You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.
Needle and seat replacement
Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the float pin and float with needle attached. Look in the float needle passage and you should see the red float seat at the bottom of the passage. This is where a #5 crotchet hook would come in handy as you need to remove this seat. If you have no hook, but compressed air, you can blow through the fuel inlet and try to pop the seat out. Put your thumb over the passage to prevent the seat from flying who knows where. No air or hook try bending a stiff paper clip to dig the seat out.
I would either give the carb a good 24 hour soaking or have it ultrasonically cleaned at this time.
With the seat out clean the passage way with carb cleaner. Now you must find a drill bit slightly smaller than the passage way, to be used to press in the new seat. Apply a very, very small amount of a very light lube to the new seat. 3-1 oil or lighter, to help seat it better. Carefully insert the new seat in the passage way with the rings on the seat down toward the carb body. Slowly and carefully force the seat down with the back end of the drill bit. Once it is seated, check to see that it did not flip and the rings are up. *Next check to make sure that the float does not have any liquid in it. *If it does, replace. *If everything looks correct, attach the new needle to the float and install with the float pin centered. It everything is correct, the float should seat level to the carb body, when looking at it upside down. If everything looks good reattach the float bowl, making sure that both the bowl gasket and the nut gasket seal properly. Reinstall on the engine and test unit. Remember to have patience and take your time. Good luck, but I don't think you'll need it.
PS: *On the side of some Tecumseh carbs you will find a plastic cover. *Under this cover will be an idle jet. *Remove it and check to see that the jet is open both horizontally and vertically. *You should be able to push the old float needle wire through the vertical opening.
Carb soaked 24+ hours in carb cleaner. All passages clear - blew through using compressed air. All gaskets replaced. Needle and seat replaced. Used B&S kit number 498260. Engine model is 126T05-0855-B1 (best I can tell - there was some corrosion on the metal tab the engine model number was stamped).
Choke blade appears to be working. Throttle blade opens and closes smoothly.
It just seems like the fuel/air mixture is off. Mixture either isn't making it to the cylinder, there is too much of it or ration is off. I will remove the carb again this weekend and see if I can get it to fire on just ether.
Choke blade appears to be working. Throttle blade opens and closes smoothly.
It just seems like the fuel/air mixture is off. Mixture either isn't making it to the cylinder, there is too much of it or ration is off. I will remove the carb again this weekend and see if I can get it to fire on just ether.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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slip the carb off, reconnect the fuel line if you removed it, turn it 90 deg block the choke open and blow through the carb with high volume low pressure air.
I use one of those old spray guns that used to go on the back of a vacuum cleaner.
The other method is to put your air blower in a paper towel tube open at both ends.
When you blow through the carb atomised fuel should come out the other end if the carb is working properly.
Naturally no naked flames,no smoking , do it outside and point the carb away from the mower, yourself, the shed, your car etc, just in case.
This vill verify the carb is working and save continually tearing it down repeatidly.
If you can start & keep the engine running by squirting shots of starter fluid down the inlet that confirms the timing & valve functions
So then you are left with the carb / cylinder joint.
I use one of those old spray guns that used to go on the back of a vacuum cleaner.
The other method is to put your air blower in a paper towel tube open at both ends.
When you blow through the carb atomised fuel should come out the other end if the carb is working properly.
Naturally no naked flames,no smoking , do it outside and point the carb away from the mower, yourself, the shed, your car etc, just in case.
This vill verify the carb is working and save continually tearing it down repeatidly.
If you can start & keep the engine running by squirting shots of starter fluid down the inlet that confirms the timing & valve functions
So then you are left with the carb / cylinder joint.
pugaltitude
Lawn Addict
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How did you check spark?
Should always be with a tester as this loads the coil to full capacity.
The spark plug caps (if metal) were prone to failing and give a sympton of the spluttering you describe.
The cap pushes onto a terminal on the lead.
Pull the cap off and connect terminal on plug and see if it starts.
Also have you tried a new plug?
Other thing is make sure the choke is coming with the thermostat adjusted properly.
The airvane has notches at exhaust side and top of the thermostat should be adjusted between these notches.
Should always be with a tester as this loads the coil to full capacity.
The spark plug caps (if metal) were prone to failing and give a sympton of the spluttering you describe.
The cap pushes onto a terminal on the lead.
Pull the cap off and connect terminal on plug and see if it starts.
Also have you tried a new plug?
Other thing is make sure the choke is coming with the thermostat adjusted properly.
The airvane has notches at exhaust side and top of the thermostat should be adjusted between these notches.
matthewstrutt
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better call a expert.. he can help you easy
Yes. I have spark
New plug
I will do wonder about the auto choke system. I will look at it more closely.
New plug
I will do wonder about the auto choke system. I will look at it more closely.
Flywheel key is good. That was one of the first things I checked.
This is an auto choke carb. There are not (by appearances) many things to set.
This is an auto choke carb. There are not (by appearances) many things to set.
mechanic mark
Lawn Pro
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<a href="http://service.mtdproducts.com/Training_Education/769_05615A_A_and_B_series_mowers.pdf" target="_blank">http://service.mtdproducts.com/Training_Education/769_05615A_A_and_B_series_mowers.pdf</a> check 40 amp fuse & engine air filter for replacement.