Hi there I have a question on my 2006 craftsman lt2000 riding mower with a Briggs and Stratton intex 20hp singal cylinder. Just recently changed the oil and oil filter and it started up just fine but when i went to cut some grass I turned on the blades and the moter sounded like it had no power so I shut off the blades and the moter picked up speed but when I turned on the blades again and I went forward and the moter quite all together and won't start back up I can even spin the moter over. Can anyone here help me please. Thanks
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
2006 craftsman lt2000 won't crank
- Thread starter Jordan247
- Start date
More options
Export threadSeniorCitizen
Lawn Addict
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2010
- Threads
- 125
- Messages
- 2,125
Remove the spark plug and see if it will crank. If all seems well, set the valves and try again with the spark plug installed.
SeniorCitizen
Lawn Addict
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2010
- Threads
- 125
- Messages
- 2,125
Try rotating it backwards with the spark plug out. If it will rotate look in the plug hole to see if the piston is moving.
Ive tried removing the spark plig but moter wobt spin look led in the spark plug hole and moter wont turn by hand was running when i changed the oil and when i went to mow i engaged the blades and i moved forward and the moter died right there and wouldnt spin over tried everything what could this be
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 24,705
Ive tried removing the spark plig but moter wobt spin look led in the spark plug hole and moter wont turn by hand was running when i changed the oil and when i went to mow i engaged the blades and i moved forward and the moter died right there and wouldnt spin over tried everything what could this be
Conrods & counter weights can let go in as little as one or two revolutions.
However before you start ripping into the engine have a peep underneath as some times wire, rope rags etc can wrap around the crank & lock up the engine solid.
Next pull off the flywheel as the odd bolt or wsher can fing its way in there and also lock up the mower but they usually allow some movement.
Failing that if the blades & drive are disconnected and you can not turn the engine over then the engine is toast.
If nothing has poked its head out through the side of the mower it can be repaired.
However for a 8 year old mower I would be inclined to fit a replacement engine which will work out a lot cheaper if you can do it yourself.
Conrods & counter weights can let go in as little as one or two revolutions.
However before you start ripping into the engine have a peep underneath as some times wire, rope rags etc can wrap around the crank & lock up the engine solid.
Next pull off the flywheel as the odd bolt or wsher can fing its way in there and also lock up the mower but they usually allow some movement.
Failing that if the blades & drive are disconnected and you can not turn the engine over then the engine is toast.
If nothing has poked its head out through the side of the mower it can be repaired.
However for a 8 year old mower I would be inclined to fit a replacement engine which will work out a lot cheaper if you can do it yourself.
So you think it is the connecting rod because I don't see any holes in the side of the motor and I have tried moving the pully attached to the crank and it won't move in either direction. So would you think it would be the coonecting rod or did it throw a rod in a place were I can't see it because there is no holes in the side of the motor. Please write back thanks.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2014
- Threads
- 64
- Messages
- 24,705
Con rod, counter weight, counter weight control rod, big end bolt even a lump of piston skirt or barrel spigot siezed top or bottom bearing.
Makes no diference at this point and the only way to tell is to pull the motor apart.
Some of the better bore o scopes that have 90 deg heads can go down the plug hole or oil drain hole and might give you a clue but they will cost more than a new engine .
So it is a pull it out and pull it down job.
Drain the oil into a container then strain it and see what you find but it is still a guessing game.
Don't wast time pontificating just do it because what to do next is fully determined by what you see inside or if you don't feel confident enough just get a replacement engine now and play with yours latter. The ggrass won'r wait.
Makes no diference at this point and the only way to tell is to pull the motor apart.
Some of the better bore o scopes that have 90 deg heads can go down the plug hole or oil drain hole and might give you a clue but they will cost more than a new engine .
So it is a pull it out and pull it down job.
Drain the oil into a container then strain it and see what you find but it is still a guessing game.
Don't wast time pontificating just do it because what to do next is fully determined by what you see inside or if you don't feel confident enough just get a replacement engine now and play with yours latter. The ggrass won'r wait.