L110 Will Not Start

Boobala said:

Check out this video ... might prove helpful ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yiimgl-Rdmw

I use these connectors all the time ... best part is you can take the splice apart at any time with cutting the wire great for a situation like yours ( I M O )
you can get them here ... https://www.posi-products.com/
I have bought some at ADVANCE Auto Parts also..

Click to expand...

Boobala said:

It sounds to me as though you want to have an "ORIGINAL" type connection with a "molen" typeconnector
I'm not sure this will help but I have built complete wiring harness's using similar products while doing Aircraft Overhaul work ...

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/copi

https://www.google.com/search?q=mal...I3OFXchHPmQ1VbE30uCoSCWZPNE7UZKFfEVoFDpwpqFrO

https://www.google.com/search?q=mal...I3OFXchHPmQ1VbE30uCoSCWZPNE7UZKFfEVoFDpwpqFrO

I hope this helps in your quest of information ...

Click to expand...

Telesis said:

I don't know the exact switch on the L110. I googled it and it seems like part no GY20094 is it. I'll assume for the moment it is. This switch has 1/4" male spade terminals. Instead of trying to find the complete mating connector, can you just cut it off, and terminate each of the 4 wires with an individual insulated female spade terminal? You can find those online, or at home center or hardware stores. This is what I'm referring to:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tyco-Ele...-Insulated-Nylon-CPGI-3-350820-2-10/202204295

You just need to get the right wire on the right terminal of the switch...

Is this a possibility?

Click to expand...

Telesis said:

I'm sorry, I missed your comment about direct wire. Can you please confirm with a pic or a part no of the switch or the cavity what you are dealing with? Is it the one I mentioned using the spade terminals or is it something that uses the round pins and sockets as Boobala indicated. He mentioned 'molen'. That's a typo. He's referring to a 'Molex' type connector. That's a manufacturer name and they have been around forever and you can buy individual pins and sockets at electronics suppliers like Mouser, Digikey, Newark, etc. They are very common. The question is whether the 'standard' molex pins are used in the JD cavity. If I can just see a pic of exactly what you are looking for I can probably give you more help.

So, for this next comment I'll assume I was wrong about the spade terminal connector and instead it's a molex connector. I've assembled a boatload of molex connectors over the years and it's not uncommon for a male or female insert to pop out of the cavity. If you look closely at the insert, there are two "nibs", one on each side of the insert. When it is pushed into the cavity, those 'snap' in to retain it. If those are bent in, they won't grab. You can take an Xacto knife and gently bend them back out and push the insert back in and get it to grab. I mention this as you may not need to replace and can repair instead.

Sorry to belabor the issue, but my confusion is what type of connection you are dealing with in the first place. If you could provide a pic of the connector and of the pin that fell out, that would be helpful and I can point you to specific part numbers. If in fact it's molex pins you are looking for(and they are the standard ones), there's a good chance I have what you need in my shop and I can just send them to you! [I've been designing, building, and repairing electronics for the better part of 50 years and I've worked with all kinds of connectors, including molex. That's why I'm asking to see it!]

Click to expand...