Recent content by unioncreek

I put the old seal back in (temporarily)in and filled with oil. Did a compression test both cylinders test at 140 pounds. There is some air coming out of the intake when I pressurized the cylinders, both sides. I got it started and it run as smooth as it always did. Is there a vent...

I’ll check compression tomorrow if I get a chance. I’ll also do a leak down test if I can find my setup. I start working harvest late this week, so I have to either get this one fixed or buy a new mower. Won’t have any time for the next 6-8 weeks. Thanks for the help.

I clean the cooling fins every time I use it. I got it from my brother in law when it us 18 hours on it I change the oil every 25 hour. Air filter is cleaned once a month and I replace it every 50 hours. Bob

It’s a Briggs & Stratton. I pulled the mower deck off and the crack seal was laying on top of the drive pulley in one piece. What could cause it to come out? My thought is crankcase pressure. Little history on the engine. I had to overhaul it at 110 hours the rings were shot. One piston...

My grandson was mowing lawn and he came in and said the mower quit. I went out and look at it and the deck wis covered in oil and the dipstick just barely has any on it. I filled it with oil and it cranks over, but the oil just runs out the bottom. Thinking it possibly is the cranks seal, but...

Yes, I put a JD OEM belt on last year. After taking the drive pulley off I removed the transaxle. The driven pulley on the transaxle is also shined right to the bottom. I’m going to replace all the pulleys plus the idlers and belt. Bob

I pull the deck off this morning and here is what the drive pulley looks like. There are ridges in it also. The plastic idler pulley looks good.

I have a JD D140 mower that I put a new drive belt on last spring. As the mowing season was ending up for the fall it started to slip more often. I’m wondering if either the drive pulley on the engine or the driven pulley on the transmission are worn out. Is there a way to tell if that is...

B&S repair manual states 0.005 on both intake and exhaust.

Mine had 140 hrs. I run Mobile Delvac 15/40 in my truck so I tried that still used almost as much. Even tried 50wt the last oil change that didn't work either. I've overhauled the engine. The rings were shot. A leakdown test on cylinder #2 was 100 % and #1 was about 20%. A new connecting rod...

Yes, operated quite a few of them making alfalfa pellets. This is just a project I'm playing with. Need projects during the winter.

The whole story about why I over hauled the engine is in the thread. You'll have to read it all.

And yet that exactly the way it turned out. The old rod had a clearance of 0.0015 and when torqued the rod was would not move on the cranks. The new rod clearance was 0.002" and moved freely on the crank. I put Dykem on the rod and torqued it down to 50 in-lbs so I could move it a little. There...

1) No to oversize rings, cylinder measurements didn't warrant it. Cylinder was honed. Rings endgaps we're equal top to bottom. 2) Timing marks were lined up, that's not hard to do. Procedure for setting the valves were the same for both cylinders according to the B&S repair manual. If people...

I'm the OP. You really need to read the posts from the beginning. As I've state three times already the problem has been solved. I replaced #1 connect rod and the engine is back in the mower and running. Bob