Recent content by unioncreek

Yes, I put a JD OEM belt on last year. After taking the drive pulley off I removed the transaxle. The driven pulley on the transaxle is also shined right to the bottom. I’m going to replace all the pulleys plus the idlers and belt. Bob

I pull the deck off this morning and here is what the drive pulley looks like. There are ridges in it also. The plastic idler pulley looks good.

I have a JD D140 mower that I put a new drive belt on last spring. As the mowing season was ending up for the fall it started to slip more often. I’m wondering if either the drive pulley on the engine or the driven pulley on the transmission are worn out. Is there a way to tell if that is...

B&S repair manual states 0.005 on both intake and exhaust.

Mine had 140 hrs. I run Mobile Delvac 15/40 in my truck so I tried that still used almost as much. Even tried 50wt the last oil change that didn't work either. I've overhauled the engine. The rings were shot. A leakdown test on cylinder #2 was 100 % and #1 was about 20%. A new connecting rod...

Yes, operated quite a few of them making alfalfa pellets. This is just a project I'm playing with. Need projects during the winter.

The whole story about why I over hauled the engine is in the thread. You'll have to read it all.

And yet that exactly the way it turned out. The old rod had a clearance of 0.0015 and when torqued the rod was would not move on the cranks. The new rod clearance was 0.002" and moved freely on the crank. I put Dykem on the rod and torqued it down to 50 in-lbs so I could move it a little. There...

1) No to oversize rings, cylinder measurements didn't warrant it. Cylinder was honed. Rings endgaps we're equal top to bottom. 2) Timing marks were lined up, that's not hard to do. Procedure for setting the valves were the same for both cylinders according to the B&S repair manual. If people...

I'm the OP. You really need to read the posts from the beginning. As I've state three times already the problem has been solved. I replaced #1 connect rod and the engine is back in the mower and running. Bob

Problem is solved. The #1 connecting rod clearance was not enough and it would tighten up enough on the crank journal when torqued to specs that made it very hard to turn. Bought a new rod, installed it and engine is running good. Had nothing to do with valves or piston rings. Bob

Put my engine in my mower this morning. Cranked it for a bit to get the oil in the system. Put the sparkplug wires on and it fired right up. Started it five time throughout the day and it started every time. I'm sure it will start up tomorrow. I'm about a month away from lawn mowing. How...

Received my new connecting rod today. Used the micrometer and snap gauge to check the diameter, it was right at 1.500. Checked it with plastigage and clearance was 0.002". Cleaned up the journal and connecting rod and assembled it on the crankshaft. Torqued it to 100 in-lbs and it turned...

They plastigage indicated clearance is 0.0015 on the #1 rod. Still of I torqued rod cap to even 50 in-lbs I can barely move it. At 100 in-lbs I can't move it. Dykem didn't show any place where is was rubbing. The new rod should arrive shortly and I go from there then.

Just one tiny spot, almost like an air bubble popped.