KlinkSanford
Member
- Joined
- Jun 14, 2019
- Threads
- 5
- Messages
- 16
I have a 2007 Scag Wildcat STWC52V-25KA, 52" with a Kawi 25hp which I bought from my neighbor about two months ago. The motor and the deck are newer like from 2014 and it sat like 2 years unused, so I bought it from him. I changed the engine and hydraulic oils & filters, changed the center spindle and tapered hub, the idler bearings, springs, and put in a new negative wire to the battery and cleaned the connections on both ends, and I did a few other minor things, and had my 15 year old son mow the front 1/3 of my 5 acres. The machine ran great. It started to rain towards the end, so he put the machine away in the barn. The next day I went to take it out of the barn and it cranked for one split second, then it clicked like the battery was dead. Then it did nothing, no sound no nothing.
I took out the multimeter and checked the battery and it was fully charged 12.77v. I got my multimeter out and tested all of the safety interlock switches, the seat switch is bypassed it is jumped, I checked it and it has continuity, I checked the brake switch, and the two arms switches (they are the same part number according to the part manual) and they all had continuity, HOWEVER, curiously, although they are the same part number the two arm switches have continuity when not pushed in, and the brake switch has continuity when pushed in. My neighbor says they were the arm switches were the opposite before. Anyhow, I thought that that should not affect anything since it just means the arms have to be in one position or the other to start and it does not start in any position. I tested the relay switch thoroughly according to this video and it passed on every test.
I then tested the starter switch and it passed. I hooked up the multimeter black lead to the battery negative and the red positive lead to the loose green wire at the starter solenoid and only got .560 volts when I turn the key, and it makes no difference how the interlock switches are set. I reconnected the green wire to the solenoid and moved the red multimeter lead to the red battery wire connected on the starter, and got 12.67v w. Then I turned the key switch to start and the voltage dropped to 1+ volts. I also borrowed a new PTO switch from my neighbor and tried with it and no change.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I took out the multimeter and checked the battery and it was fully charged 12.77v. I got my multimeter out and tested all of the safety interlock switches, the seat switch is bypassed it is jumped, I checked it and it has continuity, I checked the brake switch, and the two arms switches (they are the same part number according to the part manual) and they all had continuity, HOWEVER, curiously, although they are the same part number the two arm switches have continuity when not pushed in, and the brake switch has continuity when pushed in. My neighbor says they were the arm switches were the opposite before. Anyhow, I thought that that should not affect anything since it just means the arms have to be in one position or the other to start and it does not start in any position. I tested the relay switch thoroughly according to this video and it passed on every test.
I then tested the starter switch and it passed. I hooked up the multimeter black lead to the battery negative and the red positive lead to the loose green wire at the starter solenoid and only got .560 volts when I turn the key, and it makes no difference how the interlock switches are set. I reconnected the green wire to the solenoid and moved the red multimeter lead to the red battery wire connected on the starter, and got 12.67v w. Then I turned the key switch to start and the voltage dropped to 1+ volts. I also borrowed a new PTO switch from my neighbor and tried with it and no change.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.