Pump will not start

[noquacks]

People.

Have a shallow well pump, Craftsman 3/4 HP. Tested it with 120v first to make sure it actually runs. Then connected it all up with pvc pipes, and electrical 240V. I switched the button to 240V internally first. I have voltage at the pressue switch but the pump will not even start. I primed it with water as well. No luck. Could it be a bad pressure switch? Can one do anything else?

Thanks.

 

[StarTech]

Time to get out the DVMM and start testing the electrical connections. The might be at the pump mode switch itself.

Just be thankful it wasn't a submersible pump that you didn't verify the 240V operation before installing. I just pulled my pump because the electrical connection broke down near the pump in the well. Had to make a tool to unmount the pit less connector and it was stuck so tight it took a engine crane to free it. Pulling a 100 ft of hose with water and pump is exhausting for a 62 yr old to do by himself.

 

[noquacks]

Time to get out the DVMM and start testing the electrical connections. The might be at the pump mode switch itself.

Just be thankful it wasn't a submersible pump that you didn't verify the 240V operation before installing. I just pulled my pump because the electrical connection broke down near the pump in the well. Had to make a tool to unmount the pit less connector and it was stuck so tight it took a engine crane to free it. Pulling a 100 ft of hose with water and pump is exhausting for a 62 yr old to do by himself.

Well, I got 240V at the 2 wires from the source (taken at the 2 "buttons" on the pressure switch), but not at the 2 other screws/contacts at the switch. But the contacts are "touching" meaning, the switch 4 contacts are touching the contact points on the switch . What is the mystery? Shouldn't my pump fire up? Why is not the 240V being transferred to the other 2 contacts?

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Well, I got 240V at the 2 wires from the source (taken at the 2 "buttons" on the pressure switch), but not at the 2 other screws/contacts at the switch. But the contacts are "touching" meaning, the switch 4 contacts are touching the contact points on the switch . What is the mystery? Shouldn't my pump fire up? Why is not the 240V being transferred to the other 2 contacts?

Can you send a pic of the connections at the pressure switch?

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Had to make a tool to unmount the pit less connector and it was stuck so tight it took a engine crane to free it. Pulling a 100 ft of hose with water and pump is exhausting for a 62 yr old to do by himself.

I have 2 wells. One for the house and one for the heat pump. 120' deep and we have the slimy bacterial iron. I have had to pull pumps quite a few times in the last 25 years. Last time was a year ago. At 65 pulling up the slimy mess whipped me pretty good. I feel your pain.

 

[noquacks]

Can you send a pic of the connections at the pressure switch?

This is insane- I just measured ohms and V and got continuity on all 4 contacts on the switch. ALSO, now, I am getting 240V on the 4 contacts!! So, I figured, let me take V on the 2 leads going INTO the motor itself, I opened up the back and touched the 2 hot leads at the motor itself and they registered 240v! How can I get 240V at the motor itself and still the motor will not start?

 

[Hammermechanicman]

Going to assume it is a split phase capacitor start motor. Even if the start winding or capacitor is bad you should still get a good humm out of the run winding. Does it have a capacitor?

 

[noquacks]

Going to assume it is a split phase capacitor start motor. Even if the start winding or capacitor is bad you should still get a good humm out of the run winding. Does it have a capacitor?

Yes, it has a capacitor. It is a Craftsman, Model # 390.261B, the B may be an 8, hard to read. 3/4 HP. Can I run this on 120V? The switch can be switched to the 120V side. Then I use only one wire, and cap off the other? Think that would help? I dont care what V it runs on, I hardly use it. Maybe the 240V switch position is bad, if so, the 120V side could do the trick(?).

 

[noquacks]

remember- in post #1, it ran on 120V before I connected it all up.......

 

[Hammermechanicman]

I am not exactly sure what you have. I am going to assume the pump uses an external pressure switch. On the pump itself should be a tag, plate or sticker that has the motor info like voltage, amp draw, Hz and maybe some other stuff. SOME pump motors can be dual voltage 120/240 but it requires some rewiring the connections. There will usually be a schematic for this on the cover for the motor connections. If you tested it on 120v but then connected it up to 240v i am confused. What does the plate on the pump say the voltage should be?