Oil clearance

Stryped

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I have a 27 hp Briggs v twin with aluminum rods. I broke a rod so I am rebuilding it. It goes to my lawn mower.
Can you tell me what to look for in terms of clearance between my rod and crank journal? If the clearance is too much, can I mill the rod halves to make the large rod journal smaller if that makes sense? Could it be done with sand paper and plate glass like you use to flatten a cylinder head surface? Thanks for your help!
 

slomo

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This one of those ultra fast deck removed mud bogger mowers?
 

Scrubcadet10

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i would get your model type and code numbers, contact briggs, and ask for the clearance between the Rod big end and crankshaft journal, if they give you a spec, buy some plastigauge and go to work...
 

Stryped

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i would get your model type and code numbers, contact briggs, and ask for the clearance between the Rod big end and crankshaft journal, if they give you a spec, buy some plastigauge and go to work...
I have no clue who to contact at Briggs.
I have heard a rule of thumb is .001 times the crank normal diameter but have no clue if that is right.
 

sgkent

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it is for pressure systems for the street. Don't know on splash systems. You can get the measurement by subtracting the crank journal spec from the rod dimension spec. If one starts sanding, do not pinch the journal or a whole world of hurt will happen. I used to resize 50 - 100 automotive rods a week for many years.
 

Stryped

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it is for pressure systems for the street. Don't know on splash systems. You can get the measurement by subtracting the crank journal spec from the rod dimension spec. If one starts sanding, do not pinch the journal or a whole world of hurt will happen. I used to resize 50 - 100 automotive rods a week for many years.
What do you mean pinch the journal?
 

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

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No it’s to my John Deere zero turn
Journal and crank specs exist for standard. No current engines under $1500 or so have specs for regrind of journal and a rod to match by B&S as far as I know. Part cost is usually less than regrinding journal and specs for regrinding are seldom properly followed. Buy the parts or short block so you don't have to do it again. In addition, compression Top dead center will change if parts not proper and head to piston contact is very possible. Never tighten a rod cap to close the gap period - think of the out of round condition you create. Some times you can clean any transferred material off the crank with tender care and measure it for spec pass and reuse - this a shop will seldom do as the time cost equals a crank. Make sure to check journal in several clock positions. More wear will be found at top dead center.
 

StarTech

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Only milling on rod journals will make the clearances worst otherwords the only way to make the rods to fit tighter is make their hole smaller not larger.
 
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