Need help determining model number on a HR215 Masters

mhenry910

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  • / Need help determining model number on a HR215 Masters
I got this mower for free from my elderly neighbor. The short story is it runs amazing, he just had it serviced and clutch replaced a the beginning of last season by a local shop. His grandson was mowing the grass and somehow hit a nice size landscaping rock, bent the shaft and took a nice size chunk out of the deck:thumbdown:. Anyways I was going to make a project out of it and put a new shaft and maybe piston and/or rings. It still runs great I started it for a few seconds on low idle. Can anyone help me determine exactly what model/year it is? I'm almost certain the last 3 letters are SXA. Thanks for any help and maybe advice on any other parts to replace while I'm in there.m3.jpgm4.jpgm1.jpgm2.jpgm5.jpg
 

bertsmobile1

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  • / Need help determining model number on a HR215 Masters
Because Honda make quality engines that they are rightly proud of, they stamp the model & serial numbers into the crank case.
So wash the engine and have a good look.
Usually it will be sort of behind the carb.
 

mhenry910

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  • / Need help determining model number on a HR215 Masters
Okay, that helps for the engine itself. But I still need the actual model number for deck parts mainly the metal shield that encloses the drivetrain and any other components that I find along the way.
 

mhenry910

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  • / Need help determining model number on a HR215 Masters
So, I believe I found it, HR215K1SXA. Any insight on the rebuild would be great though, I am not a new to small engine repair, so just looking for problematic areas to look for would be great.
 

bwdbrn1

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  • / Need help determining model number on a HR215 Masters
The HR215 is a fantastic mower. Even better when they're free. I've been a fan of the HR214 and HR215 lines for years and have rebuilt quite a few of the engines on them. A few years ago I posted a thread for a rebuild of a GXV120 I did on mylawnmowerforum.com. Rebuilding a GX140 would be pretty much the same. Here's the link to that thread.
https://www.mylawnmowerforum.com/fo...air-discussion/8313-honda-gxv120-rebuild.html

Your full model number is most likely HR215SXA-K1, which translates to:
HR - Honda Rotary
21 - 21" cutting deck
5 - GXV140 engine
S - Gear drive transmission
X - Recoil start
A - USA market
The K1 is a designation of a design change. In the case of the Masters it would be such things as the engine shroud, air cleaner and the color of the deck and handle bars was different than the earlier HR215. Maybe a few other things than I'm forgetting, but mostly cosmetic.

A really great place to find parts for your Honda is boats.net. In fact, my preferred Honda dealer retired recently and now does work our of his home garage. He uses boats.net to get the parts he needs.

Just go to their Honda section, choose Lawnmower parts, then scroll down the list until you get to the HR215s.

The nice thing about it is that when you choose a part from the parts list, you can then find all the other models that part will fit by scrolling down the page.. Actually, many of the HR215 deck parts were used throughout the model line, the HR214 before it and the HR216.
 
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tadawson

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  • / Need help determining model number on a HR215 Masters
The deck castings are identical in all HR215 variants, and I'm pretty sure the HR214 as well . . . possibly also the HR216. The main change 214 to 215 to 216 was 120cc to 140cc to 160cc GXV engines - same block mounting pattern, just diff cyl bores. I just redid my early HR215 and replaced a cracked deck with one from a late production HXA (hydro) variant, and zero differences. As others have noted, the main change on the engine was trim, and the plate that handles the throttle cable connections changed a bit, and I think thry may have omittedthe fuel shutoff in later engines, but that's trivial.

I'm not sure what 'shaft' you think you bent, since this series has the blade clutch directly on the crankshaft, so hopefully you only bent something in the clutch - I doubt a crank replacement would be viable. If it idles without the blade vibrating, you are probably OK. And bend in the crank would shake the the clutch violently, engaged or not(the clutch freewheels on bearings concentric to the crank . . .).

On mine, with likely close to 2000 engine hours, the cylinder was still within tolerances for stock rings, so I just honed and did rings. The upper and lower crank oil seals had petrified, so change those and that was it other than gaskets. The carbs on these are simple to work on, so really no need to ever consider replacing one of them short of having hit it with a sledge hammer. My wheels had gotten a bit sloppy, so I replaced those to not owrry about it, and I also opened, flushed and refilled the tranny "while I was there" . . . really no signs that it needed it, but after 30 years, seemed like a good idea. Oh, and the axle bearings in the rear wheel adjusters were utterly destroyed beyond repair, so I replaced those as well. All in all, it's pretty much back to new condition, and shoukd be good for at least another 20 years . .
 
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