I own a Murray Select Model 42514X8A with a 14.5HP B&S. I started having to turn the keyswitch really hard to the left in order for the engine to shut off. I replaced the keyswitch thinking that the contacts had simply worn out and the brand new one does the EXACT SAME THING. Does anyone know what this might be? Yes it will shut off but I need to turn it really hard. Is it a grounding issue perhaps? Thanks in advance for the help.
Murray Model 42514X8A Key Switch Issue
- Thread starter eriklilje
- Start date
I would start with the simple first. Did you purchase this unit new? Could someone what replaced the switch without your knowledge? Could you have the wrong switch? Below is a wiring diagram for your unit. Check to see if your switch is wired like the diagram. You should have 7 terminals on the back of the switch.
- list# - PartsAndService - View Illustrated Parts Catalogues - ipl.cgi.v305 1 -
- list# - PartsAndService - View Illustrated Parts Catalogues - ipl.cgi.v305 1 -
Thanks for the quick response. That is a GREAT site and I pulled up my make/model and viewed the schematic. Yes it is the proper one and yes the new switch I bought is wired properly. On these mowers it's impossible to mess it up-there is a six pin cluster connector that only goes in one way, then the black wire (the 7th pin) goes on. You can't screw it up. I am not the original owner but the "having to turn the key hard to shut it off" issue did not exist until like a year ago-then it started doing it intermittently, then all the time like now. It really seemed like a worn-out keyswitch but that's not the case.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
Check to see that the black wire (ground) terminal is clean on the switch and where it attaches to your units frame ground. Also, check that the battery ground is clean and tight on both ends. Your symptoms indicate you are not making a good ground when turning the engine off.
OK, here's what I did:
1) Cleaned and sanded/wirebrushed ground from battery to frame
2) Cleaned and sanded/wirebrushed ground from keyswitch to frame ground
Both were fairly rusted which I don't get b/c its stored in a garage and I don't exactly live in the rust belt....
Mower now will shut off without having to twist the key hard! But it's weird-I will turn the key to off and it takes like 2-3 sec to cut off but it WILL cut off, which it did NOT do before, so definitely progress.
I am going to clean every terminal I see that is grounded to the frame or looks rusted-there are some contacts that look rusted that are on the positive side too, namely the solenoid. Will do that and report back.
Thanks for all the help-I am very very, grateful for the assistance!
1) Cleaned and sanded/wirebrushed ground from battery to frame
2) Cleaned and sanded/wirebrushed ground from keyswitch to frame ground
Both were fairly rusted which I don't get b/c its stored in a garage and I don't exactly live in the rust belt....
Mower now will shut off without having to twist the key hard! But it's weird-I will turn the key to off and it takes like 2-3 sec to cut off but it WILL cut off, which it did NOT do before, so definitely progress.
I am going to clean every terminal I see that is grounded to the frame or looks rusted-there are some contacts that look rusted that are on the positive side too, namely the solenoid. Will do that and report back.
Thanks for all the help-I am very very, grateful for the assistance!
pugaltitude
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Here is another possibility.
Has your carb got an antifire solenoid at the bottom of it? (an electrical wire)
Reason why im asking is if it has then when you switch the engine off, instead of the coil earthing out like it should, its the solenoid stopping the fuel flow to engine which is making your engine cut off which it should.
In other words there is an earth problem (none) at your coil when you switch off.
Has your carb got an antifire solenoid at the bottom of it? (an electrical wire)
Reason why im asking is if it has then when you switch the engine off, instead of the coil earthing out like it should, its the solenoid stopping the fuel flow to engine which is making your engine cut off which it should.
In other words there is an earth problem (none) at your coil when you switch off.
It does have the solenoid on the carb. So you are saying that maybe that's the reason for the 2 second-delay, correct? So help me out-what is "In other words there is an earth problem (none) at your coil when you switch off." You are saying/meaning a grounding problem at the coil, right? Can you tell me where the coil is on this motor?
I know on the pre-electronic ignition cars what a coil looks like (used to work on them a lot...) but not sure where it is on a small engine. If I can find out I can clean the contacts there and ensure good ground.
Thanks again for all the help.
I know on the pre-electronic ignition cars what a coil looks like (used to work on them a lot...) but not sure where it is on a small engine. If I can find out I can clean the contacts there and ensure good ground.
Thanks again for all the help.
pugaltitude
Lawn Addict
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To stop the engine, the coil has to earth(ground) to usually the chassis.
If no earth to the coil when switching off then the engine will continue to run.
When a coil is earthed it switches off instantly.
Carb solenoid is working correctly.
The plunger when ign switched off is pushing up and the little bit of fuel still in carb is allowing engine to run for 2-3secs extra.
The coil is under the engine cover next to the flywheel. It has a single wire connected (underneath) to it which is going to earth usually through the ign switch.
It could be disconnected.
You need to see if there is an earth using a multimeter. Then start going back from this wire to find a problem.
It could even be a safety switch causing your problem as they work on the earth side.
This is just a possibility.
If no earth to the coil when switching off then the engine will continue to run.
When a coil is earthed it switches off instantly.
Carb solenoid is working correctly.
The plunger when ign switched off is pushing up and the little bit of fuel still in carb is allowing engine to run for 2-3secs extra.
The coil is under the engine cover next to the flywheel. It has a single wire connected (underneath) to it which is going to earth usually through the ign switch.
It could be disconnected.
You need to see if there is an earth using a multimeter. Then start going back from this wire to find a problem.
It could even be a safety switch causing your problem as they work on the earth side.
This is just a possibility.