John Deere D110 not cranking

schwieet

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Battery reads 12 volts. Nothing in corroded. It has a new ignition switch, new brake pedal switch, new starter solenoid and starter. I get 12 volts at the solenoid. The solenoid clicks. 12 volts to the purple wire when turning ignition switch. if I disconnect the wire between the solenoid and the starter so it is only connected to the solenoid and test voltage there when turning the key I get 12 volts. If I connect the wire back to the starter (so the whole circuit is connected) I get almost no voltage coming out of the solenoid at the starter. What am I missing? What else could be causing the no crank?

Thanks - Eric
 

bertsmobile1

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Eric.
Sounds like the battery is duff.
Try jumping directly from the battery to the starter.
If the starter does not crank then try again with a known good battery
Starter cranks with car battery but not with mower battery = duff battery in mower.
If the engine cranks when jumped directly from the mower battery then use the jumpers to bypass a starter cable one at a time till you find the dud one.
Water gets into the cables and corrodes the wire inside the insulation.
A cable like this will show 0 ohms when tested but not carry cranking current.
 

schwieet

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So when I jump directly from the battery to the starter I get pretty much nothing. It might turn over for a second and then stops. While jumping I measure voltage at the starter and it's 1 volt. Is this a ground issue somewhere?
 

bertsmobile1

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The object of the exercise is to bypass things one at a time till you verify if one of the parts is duff.
So when I said to jump directly from your battery, I meant to jump both sides, the power & the ground
If the battery can not spin the starter then either the starter or the battery is duff.
So the next cheapest & easiest thing is to bypass the battery.
If you other battery spins the starter then you battery is obviously the problem.
If jumping the + side from the mowers battery to the starter spins it then either the solenoid or the cable between the solenoid & starter is duff.
So you would jump that cable and try the key to see if it was the solenoid or the cable.

If you get nothing jumping the + cable then the next trick is to jump the - side of the battery.
Engine cranks then you have a bad ground

FWIW I think your battery is duff.
A battery has to supply AMPS at a specific Voltage
When you take a voltage reading, you get Volts at ZERRO Amps because the meter puts no load on the battery.
You said the Voltage at the solenoid was 12V with the key on ( almost no load ) then dropped to 0 when you turned the key to the start position ( high load )
That is the sign of a dead battery but before we advise you to open your wallet , I for one like to verify what you are spending your hard earned cash on will fix the problem.
I do not like waste.
Wasting water, wasting energy , wasting resources wasting time or wasting money,
 

schwieet

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The object of the exercise is to bypass things one at a time till you verify if one of the parts is duff.
So when I said to jump directly from your battery, I meant to jump both sides, the power & the ground
If the battery can not spin the starter then either the starter or the battery is duff.
So the next cheapest & easiest thing is to bypass the battery.
If you other battery spins the starter then you battery is obviously the problem.
If jumping the + side from the mowers battery to the starter spins it then either the solenoid or the cable between the solenoid & starter is duff.
So you would jump that cable and try the key to see if it was the solenoid or the cable.

If you get nothing jumping the + cable then the next trick is to jump the - side of the battery.
Engine cranks then you have a bad ground

FWIW I think your battery is duff.
A battery has to supply AMPS at a specific Voltage
When you take a voltage reading, you get Volts at ZERRO Amps because the meter puts no load on the battery.
You said the Voltage at the solenoid was 12V with the key on ( almost no load ) then dropped to 0 when you turned the key to the start position ( high load )
That is the sign of a dead battery but before we advise you to open your wallet , I for one like to verify what you are spending your hard earned cash on will fix the problem.
I do not like waste.
Wasting water, wasting energy , wasting resources wasting time or wasting money,

Thanks for the help. I did try another battery I had and got the same result. It is possible that they are both bad. I will bring one into Autozone and get it tested. I will jump the negative as well. Sorry for the dumb question, but what is the best way to do that?
 

bertsmobile1

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No such thing as a dumb question, just dumb people who don't ask questions.
I go from battery - to either an engine mounting bolt or the drain bolt.
Even a cylinder fin will do.
Jump from a know good battery like in your car .

If the battery is found to be at fault and you replace it, check the alternator output.
If the alternator is not recharging your battery then you will be repeating this proceedure in the near future.
 
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