Hustler Super Z with FH721V - leaking oil- engine replacement?

[driveguy]

I have a 2001 model Hustler Super Z with the Kawasaki FH721V. It started leaking oil slowly early last season then by the end of the season it was leaking like a sieve. I cleaned it and the best I could tell it was the output shaft seal. I pull the engine, and there is oil everywhere. So I'm second guessing my assessment. BUT. I've pulled off the crankcase cover and will be checking the bearing tomorrow. If the bearing is still good I plan on replacing the following: crankcase gasket, output shaft seal, governor shaft seal, pcv valve and gasket (not sure about the breather foam block thing??), oil cooler o-ring. Thoughts? engine and mower has <900 hours on it...but they are 21 years old this next season.

So let's assume more is wrong with this thing than I've listed above, e.g. crack in the case/block, bad output shaft bearing (which requires the crankcase cover to be replaced to the tune of another $200). What's a good current model alternative replacement Kawasaki engine for this thing? Personally, I love this engine, it runs/ran like a champ. This mower has been really good 2 me, and so has the engine. So I did read a few months ago about a good replacement, but I can no longer find that thread or website. suggestions?

So. sorry for asking 2 questions in 1. But... thoughts on my repair? suggestions for a new engine?

 

[Rivets]

You’ve got a good engine there, so my recommendation is to replace the seal and crankcase cover gasket. With that many years on the engine it‘s not uncommon for the seal to go bad. If for some reason those two parts don’t resolve your problem, then I would consider replacing the engine, but only after a second look at what might be wrong.

 

[StarTech]

Replace both crankshaft oil seals. Also replace the governor shaft oil seal.

 

[driveguy]

Replace both crankshaft oil seals. Also replace the governor shaft oil seal.

Both the top crankshaft seal and the governor seal look like a pain to replace. have to pull the crank. and looking at the governor, it looks fun.

So if I remove this crank, do I just need to mark the direction and piston the caps come off of and make sure I reinstall on the same piston and direction and be sure to retorque to spec or is there more to it than that? I would plan on just pushing the pistons up in the cylinders to slide the crank out. I already have the flywheel off. I suppose... I could try and pull that seal up without removing the crank with some seal pullers or? it looks too small to put some screws into it and use a slide hammer?

The governor seal, any suggestions there? I do have the Kawasaki service manual. Will see if it offers anything helpful as well.

 

[driveguy]

You’ve got a good engine there, so my recommendation is to replace the seal and crankcase cover gasket. With that many years on the engine it‘s not uncommon for the seal to go bad. If for some reason those two parts don’t resolve your problem, then I would consider replacing the engine, but only after a second look at what might be wrong.

Thanks for the info. I know this engine has been a workhorse for me. I'm the second owner on the mower, I know personally the person who owned it before me. They put about 350 hours on it in 10 years. I've done about 550 in 10 years. The only major work I've done to the mower is I rebuilt one of the hydraulic motors myself. Cost about $60 to put the output bearing, thrust bearing, high pressure seal, and low pressure seal in it. I've put 5 seasons on it since rebuilding that motor. So I did something right. I really need to do something right with this engine! Thanks for the help!

 

[Rivets]

I’ve replaced a lot of seals without pulling the crankshaft, only remember one where it didn’t work. It can be done, depending on your patience and time. Not really that hard to do. Only need one special tool which you can easily make. If you would like to try, I’ll try to put together the steps I go through.

 

[driveguy]

I’ve replaced a lot of seals without pulling the crankshaft, only remember one where it didn’t work. It can be done, depending on your patience and time. Not really that hard to do. Only need one special tool which you can easily make. If you would like to try, I’ll try to put together the steps I go through.

I would be interested in your suggested tool. otherwise, will likely pull this crank out tomorrow.

 

[driveguy]

I would be interested in your suggested tool. otherwise, will likely pull this crank out tomorrow.

BTW, I mic-ed the ID of the output bearing and it was within spec. Spec being 1.581" and we measured both output bearings at 1.5765" and 1.5760"

 

[StarTech]

Both the top crankshaft seal and the governor seal look like a pain to replace. have to pull the crank. and looking at the governor, it looks fun.

The governor seal, any suggestions there? I do have the Kawasaki service manual. Will see if it offers anything helpful as well.

It is a pain to get out if done while engine is still together but once the crankcase cover it should be a lot easier. I done had to do three while the engine was still together. As I said a real pain to do that way.

 

[driveguy]

It is a pain to get out if done while engine is still together but once the crankcase cover it should be a lot easier. I done had to do three while the engine was still together. As I said a real pain to do that way.

that's what I'm thinking, simply mark the rod caps and rods (one dot, two dots) remove 4 bolts, crank is out. pop old and press new seal, install crank, match up dots, torque to spec. I'm getting too old to keep doing this stuff. lol.