Fuel solenoid new vs. original questions - JD LA150 w/ Briggs Intek

[Gumby83]

Ok so during my tear down project this past winter (update to that thread coming soon), I've managed to misplace the fuel shutoff solenoid. And by misplace, I mean lose. I'm pretty sure those are synonymous, for me at least...

Anyway I've been looking for a replacement and I'm just not sure what replacement is actually correct.

Briggs numbers are 445877-0130-E1 (also has 3rd number if it matters - 070129YG).

According to their parts diagrams, the correct replacement is part# 798779, however this is a different design than what was originally on my engine. The original was a 90* design whereas the replacement is straight with no angles. I know the design itself doesn't affect operation, but I'm not sure there's enough clearance between the carb and engine for the straight design to fit. See pics below for clarity.

Thank you.

NOTE: These are just random photos of the design differences and are not exact matches to the part numbers...

ORIGINAL


REPLACEMENT

 

[slomo]

Put a small bolt of the same threads in there. Get a copper flat washer and some teflon tape on the threads. Never have a starting issue again. If you do this, drop the revs down to IDLE before turning off the ignition. Problem solved.

slomo

 

[Scrubcadet10]

The one used on Steel bowl carbs is No longer made.

 

[StarTech]

Put a small bolt of the same threads in there. Get a copper flat washer and some teflon tape on the threads. Never have a starting issue again. If you do this, drop the revs down to IDLE before turning off the ignition. Problem solved.

slomo

Just another rig job.

The solenoid you got is not the 798779 solenoid but is aftermarket or incorrectly shipped OEM solenoid.

 

[StarTech]

View attachment 55826
The one used on Steel bowl carbs is No longer made.

But at least the steel bowl has been superseded to 798778 which includes the 798779 solenoid is actually cheaper than the solenoid alone.

 

[Gumby83]

So just after posting that, I answered my own question. I was going to delete this thread.

But after reading your responses (thanks, by the way), I realize that I didn’t state my concern/question very clearly. I was concerned about the area the solenoid occupies when mounted on the carb and engine - I didn’t think there was enough room for the new solenoid to actually fit between the carb and engine.

I remembered I still have all the pics of the tear down (great way for the parts to go back where they belong) so I started searching through them and found my answer.

My recollection was that the solenoid faced about another 90* to the left and resided in that pit of death looking area.



But as you can see, my recollection was falsified.



So there wasn’t any problem to begin with - I’ve still gotta work on that whole patience thing.

Thanks! ?

 

[Scrubcadet10]

I've done stuff like that more than i care to admit.

 

[StarTech]

Still the new solenoid you have is an incorrect one. It is one use on most vertical engine carburetors. When install these long type solenoids you will sometime have to extend the wiring harness.

 

[Gumby83]

Still the new solenoid you have is an incorrect one. It is one use on most vertical engine carburetors. When install these long type solenoids you will sometime have to extend the wiring harness.

I didn’t get the replacement yet - the pics in my first post were just random photos I googled to show the difference in design. I’m planning to order the Briggs replacement today.

Thanks.

 

[Born2Mow]

The problem is 2 fold:
1) The fuel tank is ABOVE the carb. Therefore GRAVITY (which has not been turned off in a LONG time) will always be trying (yes, even while you sleep) to push gasoline into the engine oil... where it can ruin your fine engine. So you DO NEED a fuel shut off. This is because you are not fighting "fuel", you are battling "GRAVITY". And gravity doesn't give up.

2) You really cannot trust the automatic fuel shutoffs because most of them give no external indication of their ON or OFF condition. You may have one, but is it really working ? You won't know until you see oil flooding out the muffler, and by then it's too late.

The only thing you can trust is the manual fuel shut off. You control OFF and you control ON. And the valve gives a visible indication of that status. Adding a manual fuel shut off in the fuel line just before the carb will cost between $6 and $8 at any store or on-line dealer that sells power equipment. They look like this....

Hope this helps.