FS55 After rebuild C1Q

PTmowerMech

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Rebuilt with RB-100, new fuel filter & primer. Checked the needle lift with the Zama flat edge tool. Bottomed both H and L and opened 1/2 turn each.
At first I noticed it took forever to prime.
It starts easy and idle nicely. At first, it would rev up great. But as soon as you let off the throttle it would die. Then take for ever to crank again. I finally got it adjusted so it doesn't die when you let off the throttle. But when I was adjusting the high side, it runs the same with the high side closed or 2 turns open. About 1.5 to 1/75, it start strokin, so I back it off all the way to close to see if it would sound lean. But not even completely closed.

So does this mean there's something wrong with the L side?

When rebuilding, I was careful about not getting compressed air close to the holes. And only used SeaFoam top cleaner/lube spray on it. Cleaned all the old gasket off, All new gaskets & needle.

Now L is about 1 turn out. H is about 3/4. Response time is down, from when I first cranked it. But it doesn't die when I let off the throttle.

Also, when you gas on it, at first it feels like a V8 with a broken motor mount. LOL
 

bertsmobile1

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The carb runs on both the L & H when WFO
When the throttle is closed the H is still there but the air flow SHOULD be so low that it can not fraw fuel through the H jet.
Thus if the throttle stop it too far open you will be idleing on both the L & H
And if the L is too far open it can supply enough fuel to maintain the engine WFO
Also double check you have not mixed up the needles as they have different tappers on them
L is LONGER .
 

StarTech

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PT check your inbox.
 

PTmowerMech

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The carb runs on both the L & H when WFO
When the throttle is closed the H is still there but the air flow SHOULD be so low that it can not fraw fuel through the H jet.
Thus if the throttle stop it too far open you will be idleing on both the L & H
And if the L is too far open it can supply enough fuel to maintain the engine WFO
Also double check you have not mixed up the needles as they have different tappers on them
L is LONGER .

Thanks for that. I measured the needles, the one I took out and the one that came with the kit. My calipers are digital. But only go to .00 (Habor Freight specials). But none the less, they were the same.
Tappers? As in the hinge between the needle and the other side that is supposed to be flush (according to the Zama tool?

BTW, after cleaning up, I noticed I forgot to put the gasket between the breather and the carb. (the first one you come to when you take the air filter cover off. How much affect would that have on it?
 

Hammermechanicman

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PT do you have the tool to pressure test a cube carb? Do you have the W and Z guages for setting levers? If not you really need to get them if you are going to be rebuilding carbs. There are good some good vids on utube showing how to pressure test cube carbs. After you rebuild a carb you really need to pressure test it. Will tell you a lot and eliminate guessing whether it is a fuel pump, metering, check valve or primer problem. Won't tell you everything but it will tell you a lot. If it will pass the pressure test then usually a clogged passage problem. And don't use carb cleaner to clean cube carbs, ultrasonic is you best friend. If a rebuilt carb won't run with the factory initial settings probably something still wrong with the carb.
 

PTmowerMech

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PT do you have the tool to pressure test a cube carb? Do you have the W and Z guages for setting levers? If not you really need to get them if you are going to be rebuilding carbs. There are good some good vids on utube showing how to pressure test cube carbs. After you rebuild a carb you really need to pressure test it. Will tell you a lot and eliminate guessing whether it is a fuel pump, metering, check valve or primer problem. Won't tell you everything but it will tell you a lot. If it will pass the pressure test then usually a clogged passage problem. And don't use carb cleaner to clean cube carbs, ultrasonic is you best friend. If a rebuilt carb won't run with the factory initial settings probably something still wrong with the carb.

I have the W & Z levelers. Looking at pressure testers this morning. Also leak down testers.

Eliminating guess work is going to be a HUGE advantage. @bertsmobile1 told me this months ago. Just now getting enough cash flow to make it possible. Just about the time I think i have all the tools I need, one of you pro's comes up with another tool I need. lol


Note to add. I'm looking at a few on Amazon, some are like $140, with case and a lot of adapters and hose. Some are just the tool with the gauge. Are all those adapters necessary?
Mityvac MV8500 Silverline Elite Repair/Diagnostic Kit
 
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StarTech

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Just your W and Z tools, there is a second newer W tool now and you need to add it to your ever growing tool inventory. 500-528-1 is usually not separately available but is in the spiral diaphragm kits.

On the pressure tester get one that can do both pressure and vacuum tests.

And yes tools are definitely expensive and not of the tools you need are available either as I got several handmade tools here that makes my works much easier.

PT want would your wife scream if you had the 10K in tools I got here. And I thought just a couple hundred dollars in tools was a lot when I first started.
 

PTmowerMech

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I wouldn't know where to start, trying to figure out how much I have in tools already. My tool box is full, compressors, USC, drill presses, grinders drills, who whole drawer full of drill bits, carts, battery chargers. I've had to organize my brothers tool box so I can use one of his drawers. The last wooden work bench I build, I put two 24" drawers in it, That took like 5 minutes to fill up. I got tired of having my needle nose pliers mixed in with my other pliers.
Crap. Now that I think about it, I need to take all those heavy plies out of that wooden drawer, and swap them out with the electrical drawed in my tool box.
Something to do til the rain quits. As if there wasn't already enough to do.
 
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