Everide Warrior 60" wont start. Lost.

Chughes2009

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Hello all,

Came here looking for a hope and prayer. I'm at my witts end with this thing.

I have a everide warrior (model: ZKW2560) it has the Kawasaki 25hp (4H721V) v-twin engine on it.

Ran the mower great all spring and summer. then, when I put it up for the fall, I went out to start it just a couple weeks later to mulch up some leaves. It wouldn't start. I have tried so many things to get this thing running.

I got fuel (even tried spraying starting fluid in)
Got air
Tested for spark, Got spark
Got compression
I've bypassed the fuel solenoid
I've bypassed the kill wire on the coils
Ive checked the flywheel key, it was fine, I even replaced it anyways.

It just sits there and cranks cranks cranks cranks. Doesn't even try to ignite and fire. It has backfired a few times. Today I cranked the hell out of it for 10-15 mins and it started for about 3 seconds


I'm out of ideas.....
 
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bertsmobile1

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Ignorance, is charging forward with no idea of what you are doing.
Intelleiece is asking for help when you need it.
You will find your manual here https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/.
It is the 11 th line
Your engine is a FH 721V not a 4H

A couple of things you can do .

Remove the air filter and Check that the choke is fully closed


Get a can of carb cleaner spray ( it is easier on petrol engines than starter fluid )
Get some new plugs and warm them up in the oven ( helps to prevent them getting wet & shorting out )
Spray a tiny amount down each plug hole, pop the plugs back in and crank the engine.
Let us know what happens.

Do the same but this time spray the goo through the carb from a few inches away while cranking the engine
Let us know what happens

Check that the cboke
 

Chughes2009

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Sorry for the prolonged response. Holidays have been crazy. Hope everyone had good holidays.

So I checked the valve lash. It was good. I pulled the carb apart and it was spotless. Also I tried spraying starting fluid directly into the intake. Still nothing

As for the spec number, there was no tag on the engine cover. Is it stamped somewhere? because I couldn't find it
 

Hammermechanicman

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When you say got spark. Will the spark jump a 1/4" gap? Pulling out the plug and grounding the threads and watching for spark across the plug gap is not a good test. If the spark will jump a 1/4" gap in air it will run the engine. Always always always when trouble shooting a no start issue put a new spark plug(s) in.
 

Chughes2009

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Took them out and held them bout 1/4" away from a ground. Didn't arc. Both plugs.

It had to be pretty darn close to arc to ground.

I'm going to replace the plugs but I doubt they're bad. I just put them in. Where should I start after plugs? The coils?
 

Hammermechanicman

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Don't use the plugs to check spark. Remove the plugs from the coil wire and insert a bolt in the coil wire and hold that 1/4" from ground and crank it. If won't jump the gap sand any rust off the flywheel magnets and adj the air gap if still weak spark probably needs new coils but both bad at same time not likely.
 

ILENGINE

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Don't use the plugs to check spark. Remove the plugs from the coil wire and insert a bolt in the coil wire and hold that 1/4" from ground and crank it. If won't jump the gap sand any rust off the flywheel magnets and adj the air gap if still weak spark probably needs new coils but both bad at same time not likely.
I have found Kawasaki modules susceptible to cracking the epoxy in the modules and during periods of high humidity will cause the modules to short out. The ones that I normally see are due to a misfire, and when determining which side it is on will not start on either module if one plug is disconnected, but may start if both are connected,

Have come across a few Kohler and Briggs with the same issue, but seems to be a 10:1 ratio for Kawasaki to other brands.
 

AVB

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I also have seen the steering diodes in the coils to be either shorted or leaky causing problems. To check for this disconnect both coils kill terminal.
 

Chughes2009

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I also have seen the steering diodes in the coils to be either shorted or leaky causing problems. To check for this disconnect both coils kill terminal.
By disconnecting them do you mean just leave them unplugged or do I need to jump them to something?
 

bertsmobile1

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Don't use the plugs to check spark. Remove the plugs from the coil wire and insert a bolt in the coil wire and hold that 1/4" from ground and crank it. If won't jump the gap sand any rust off the flywheel magnets and adj the air gap if still weak spark probably needs new coils but both bad at same time not likely.
Unless the rust on the magnets is deep enough to touch the coil laminations cleaning the magnets is a waste of time.
using harsh abrasives actually damages the magnets and should be avoided.
The rest of the information is worth acting on.
 

bertsmobile1

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The kill wires ground the coils so they can not build up flux
So to test you just remove completely.
The chips react to voltages in the micro volt range .
The system was designed for single cylinder 2 stroke engines because points are very unreliable over 7000 cycles / min.
because the voltages are so low it was found with V twins the spark from one cylinder created a back current which interfeared with the second one so a diode was added while new Hall Effect trigger chips were being developed & tested.
 

Chughes2009

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The kill wires ground the coils so they can not build up flux
So to test you just remove completely.
The chips react to voltages in the micro volt range .
The system was designed for single cylinder 2 stroke engines because points are very unreliable over 7000 cycles / min.
because the voltages are so low it was found with V twins the spark from one cylinder created a back current which interfeared with the second one so a diode was added while new Hall Effect trigger chips were being developed & tested.

Disconnected them and I cranked the hell out of it. Holy mother of god. After about 5 mins of cranking it just backfired out the exhaust with a 3ft flame. I think I'm deaf now. I had the choke fully on so it must of filled with gas and finally fired.

But why wouldn't it keep running? The air box is completely off at this point so it's getting plenty of air.
 
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AVB

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Fired on the wasted spark. I had one JD that did once in the shop. I nearly wet myself as I my 12 gauge or .357 was fired off right behind me.

Hmmm. When you bypassed the coils how did you do that? If you applied 12 volts to the kill terminals it would have destroyed them. If you just grounded that fine as that is the normal method of killing their output. Also when you bypassed the fuel solenoid on the carburetor, how did you do that one too?

Also have you tested the fuel itself? Fuel does go bad if it been around for a while. I have seen it where you couldn't get to burn when tested. Not going into how to this as it can be dangerous to do if done wrong.

Personally I have seen coils to fail sudden here in my shop after a especially severe lightning event but of I got a 2000' radio tower close by that draws the lightning so I have been stock in my a few times in the last 5 yrs because of the concrete floor. Just because you got spark outside the engine doesn't mean you have spark under compression; unless, it is able to jump at .166" or more. For a cold engine it also takes a stronger spark to arc the gap than it does once the engine is warm. A good example was Husqvarna ZTR that came running for deck work. I park it then a storm came that evening. The next morning I went to move to the repair area and it wouldn't hit a lick. A little tough to explain to that the coils overnight during that storm but he accepted it.

And a piece of advice don't be cranking the engine continuously for 5 minutes. It can overheat the starter and ruin it. The engine should normally fire up under 10 sec anyway ;though, a JD 737 I work on may take 20 secs sometimes.
 

Chughes2009

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Fired on the wasted spark. I had one JD that did once in the shop. I nearly wet myself as I my 12 gauge or .357 was fired off right behind me.

Hmmm. When you bypassed the coils how did you do that? If you applied 12 volts to the kill terminals it would have destroyed them. If you just grounded that fine as that is the normal method of killing their output. Also when you bypassed the fuel solenoid on the carburetor, how did you do that one too?
I tried disconnecting them and starting them, not grounded to anything. I also grounded 1 to the negative battery terminal.

The fuel solenoid, it's just unplugged and removed completely from the carb. Might be why its backfiring.
 
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