Briggs 5HP Flathead I/C overhaul (re-assembly in progress :) )

Mkala

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  • / Briggs 5HP Flathead I/C overhaul (re-assembly in progress :) )
Oki... But I don't have seat cutters and I dont plan to buy some, I checked and they are way too expensive, like 300-400$ !
If I only buy a new valve this make a difference without touching the seat ?

Yes valve guides are within specs, intake is perfect and exhaust as a bit of play - but the valve itself is also a bit worn. Detailed measurement above in post #7

Intake guide is really nice, I had to file the valve stem (where the keeper retain it) to remove it without scratching the guide (its only aluminum in the block, bushing is available only for repair on intake). Intake valve has no wear too on the stem, was very surprised to had so much wear on the valve face.
 

bertsmobile1

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  • / Briggs 5HP Flathead I/C overhaul (re-assembly in progress :) )
You can drop the engine off to me.
I will set the valve lash for $ 20 ( Aus) but the freight might be a bit steep.
Most REAL mower repair shop will have a Neway Small Engine set of cutters .
Older ones will have a set of stones
Doing a SV valve lash takes about 10 to 20 minutes.
Pulling everything off to get to them takes near an hour .
 

Mkala

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  • / Briggs 5HP Flathead I/C overhaul (re-assembly in progress :) )
Thanks for proposal, I would be happy to have you doing the seats for me, but as you said, sending the block to you is 60$ US ! And I think about the same for the return... so we reached the value (or more) of the running engine :p
And here, nobody do that on old flatheads, and on OHV you just have to buy a new head. I don't know how much it cost per hour for a small engine shop (I do maintenance myself) but should be at least 100$/hour.

So if I buy a new valve, unless someone has a stone I can buy for cheap to do it, I will not touch the seat. And even with a stone, you need a tool to grind/dress it at the right angle...
 

Mkala

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  • / Briggs 5HP Flathead I/C overhaul (re-assembly in progress :) )
Hi, lot of time has past since :)

Busy busy summer, and I tried to order parts from firedog.com, without success. They won't ship worldwide during the COVID pandemic, ant I can't contact them because their formulary system always fail me at the captcha test like I am not human... so I can't order original parts, its a bit a shame because they have a pretty good inventory of Briggs part (and even Honda) and reasonable international shipping costs.

After loosing two months, I finally order a chinese full gasket set for 12$ shipped... It's worth a try, I plan to use Permatex Form-a-Gasket anyway because I had bad luck even with original parts on my last crankcase covers, they leak both a bit.
The kit looks good, one nice point si it include all the gaskets - even options like Oilguard sensor or dipstick tube, and even crankshaft seals !

IMG_20200917_121754_resized.jpg

I cleaned all the gasket surfaces, applied Permatex on both side of gasket, let it dry a bit and after assembled all.
Double checked the camshaft timing, on engines with a bearing I learned just recently the dots are to line up as on the picture.
DSC01442_resized.jpgDSC01450_resized.jpg

Cleaned pistons and head too; new head gasket - without Permatex this time :p

DSC01455_resized.jpgDSC01456_resized.jpg


Now engine is assembled, with fresh oil. Just have to put gas and test tomorrow :)
And then, do the adjustments, finish assembling air box and put new air filter.

I did the governor adjustment like in this video, but seem quite loose... will see how it rev, I prefer too low than too high :

Seem to have decent compression at the rope, even if I did nothing to piston, rings and bore :)
IMG_20200923_171444_resized.jpg
 
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Scrubcadet10

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  • / Briggs 5HP Flathead I/C overhaul (re-assembly in progress :) )
Looking good!!!!!
 

Mkala

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  • / Briggs 5HP Flathead I/C overhaul (re-assembly in progress :) )
Thanks :)

Was able to short test it outside, after a few pull on the rope (carb diaphragm has to fill bowl in the tank to allow fuel to the main jet) it started and ran pretty good :) I just tested a few minutes without air filter/box, let it warm 5 minutes and looks it can idle and rev. I have to adjust both because idle is low and I don't think its reving 3600rpm, more in the region of 3000-3200 I think - I have to put the tach on. I will do this when the weather will be better, it's raining almost continuously since the quick test.
I have to check how to adjust max RPM on this governor setup.

One last pic of outside test; I will try to do a short clip of engine running next time - its more "fun" than pictures ;)

IMG_20200921_190502_resized.jpg


I forgot to mention the guy teach me the right way to set the timing, James Condon :

I like his channel, I works mostly on generator, most of the time commercially lost causes. He is pretty thorough and meticulous, discovered him recently but when I have time I like to watch his channel :)
 
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