B&S 12HP Westwood T1200

[AgustaEd]

I need to remove the engine from a westwood t1200, but I cannot for the life of me get the pulley bolt out of the shaft. The engine just spins and spins, I can’t find any way to prevent it from happening, I’ve tried a ratchet strap around the flywheel. Does anyone have any advice/information on how they have done it in the past?

 

[StarTech]

Impact gun usually get them out as some have Loctite on the threads.

 

[bertsmobile1]

In a pinch you can use a piston stop down the plug hole
Or a chain /strap wrench around the flywheel
Usually holding the lywheel nut / bolt simply loosens it and not the PTo bolt

 

[shadetree#1]

Sometimes called the Indain rope trick.
I sometimes have to remove the spark plug and with the piston down somewhat feed a small amount of 3/8 or 1/2 inch cotton rope into the cylinder then rotate the engine backwards up against the rope to lock the piston. You have to be careful and not bend a valve with the rope in the cylinder

Also I have removed the strap from a Ratchet strap and tie a knot in the end and insert between the fins and make about 3 wraps around the flywheel and then tie the end to the engine and it will snug down as the engine is turned.

Safer to use a impact wrench. Borrow one from O'Reillys.

 

[AgustaEd]

Well, after a few applications of penetrating spray, some heat, and a destroyed impact driver bit… the bolt is still there.

off to the store to get a new impact drive and try again.

 

[shadetree#1]

You should use a 6 point regular impact socket to reduce chance of rounding off the head.

I've never seen a real 6 point impact socket get destroyed is why I mention such. You might take a flashlight and look at the head of the bolt just to see the hardness. If it's not a grade 8 it might twist off. Heat/cool might be your friend.
The PTO pulley bolt is normally a grade 8 with 6 slashes on the head.
If it only has 3 slashes or no marking it might twist off. (sadness)


I

 

[StarTech]

Sounds like you are trying to remove the setscrews (5/16” UNF x 1” long) which should be 5/32 hex bit. And you will need a impact grade version of the driver. Common everyday bits are too soft.

Also the center bolt be SAE or Metric depending the engine used.

The SAE 7/16 uses a 16mm (5/8") six point hex socket.
The M10 would use a 17mm six point hex socket.

 

[shadetree#1]

westwood t1200

Send us a picture of the pulley area you are flogging.

Kinda unusual rig. Is that a diesel engine type, vertical crankshaft and a big pulley on the bottom of the crank and the bolt is screwed up from the bottom of the pulley to hold the pulley to the shaft (similar to the MTD, Craftsman lawn tractor engines or is it the side set screw type?

 

[StarTech]

As far as I know Briggs never made a diesel engine so it will the 1989 T1200.

https://help.gardentractorspares.co.uk/help/wts/st3/1989.pdf

 

[shadetree#1]

As far as I know Briggs never made a diesel engine so it will the 1989 T1200.

https://help.gardentractorspares.co.uk/help/wts/st3/1989.pdf

Thanks for the link download info.

I've seen some of them old dogs that after the pulley bolt was removed the pulley and crank shaft had severely rusted together. I have a big special puller and a hoist where I can stand the whole machine up vertical for easier access to the underneath, but sometimes I just had to use a Oxy/Acet torch and sacrifice the pulley and then replace the crankshaft seal due to heat and clean the shaft good and apply anti-sieze and a replacement pulley. If the engine is not good just cut and whack all for a re-power. His pulleys may be in the same category as dinosaur eggs trying to find a proper size replacements. Some of them old rigs were built almost bullet proof.