18 HP OHC - turns, won't start

mikechip

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I have a Poulan Pro with a B&S 1 cylinder OHC 18hp B&S model 31D707 0458E1 that ran fine, until it started surging mid-summer. It always was a "rough start" - meaning, I'd turn the key, it would pause, then crank, then pause, then crank and then eventually start. I replaced the battery and replaced the carb because it was so nasty it couldn't be adjusted, replaced the air filter and after I bolted it all on, it started and ran like a champ. Although - it still wouldn't turn over very easily - it did the whole pause, turn, pause, turn thing, but ultimately it always started.

Now I'm just going to go on ahead and admit that I ride this tractor like I stole it - it's less of a lawn mower, and more of a mule that drags stuff over less than smooth terrain. About 2 months after the carb swap, I'm dragging a de-thatcher over some turf and BOOM, it starts idling like a Harley and ultimately stops running within 60 seconds.

I try to start it and it doesn't even want to crank. If I shoot carb cleaner into to the carb it would turn and chug a bit, then poop out. I pulled the plug - it was fouled like a sailor's mouth. All carbon - no oil in the fouling. Put a brand new spark plug in, it starts and fouls it out in 45 seconds. Same thing - all carbon, no oil.

So I pull the valve cover and the rockers are flapping around like an 80 year old prostitute's boobies. I pull the rockers, replace the push rods (the aluminum rod was bend at about 15°) and I properly gap the valves at .004 inches. Put it all back together - and bang, there is no longer a pause when I turn the key - that motor just turns and turns and turns - but no ignition. I pull the fuel line (gravity fed) and the fuel is flowing like Niagara falls. I check the solenoid on the carb bowl and she's clicking like a champ. I pull the plug wire, jam a screwdriver into the boot and rest it on the motor and when I turn the key, I see spark. Then I pull the plug, put the boot over the plug, rest it on the motor and it is throwing spark in the gap when I crank it. I spray carb cleaner into the carb - no difference, it just turns and turns and turns. I pulled all the crap off the flywheel and ensured that the key was still in place, and it was. I checked the gap on the magneto (coil) and it was fine. If I shoot carb cleaner into the cylinder, it still won't kick when I turn it. However, on two occasions there was a "POP" from the valve cover area.

My thoughts at this time are - the magneto is junk and is throwing irregular voltage/ or has a crack somewhere that is double grounding and maybe the spark at the double-ground cooked off the carb cleaner near the valve cover. I ordered a new coil/magneto and will replace it when it comes in.

But, what else might it be? And am I missing anything? (I do not have the ability at this time to measure the compression.)
 

Scrubcadet10

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What's your oil level look like?
 

ILENGINE

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Have you removed the valve cover again and make sure the push rods are still in place and not bent again because the valve guide has migrated outward preventing the valve from fully openings. And could also be possible issue with a blown head gasket between the push rod cavity and the cylinder which is common on that single cylinder OHV engines.
 

mikechip

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Have you removed the valve cover again and make sure the push rods are still in place and not bent again because the valve guide has migrated outward preventing the valve from fully openings. And could also be possible issue with a blown head gasket between the push rod cavity and the cylinder which is common on that single cylinder OHV engines.

I have not pulled the valve cover off again - although I came close. It was the aluminum push rod that was bent, and because the steel one was straight, I considered swapping the bent Al rod with the extra steel one, but figured it was made of Al for a reason and just swapped that one out. I'll pull the cover and see if they rockers stayed locked at .004" top of cycle, but if it is bent again - you are suggesting I pull the head and replace the head gasket? Should I just go grab a compression meter first to check for the appropriate bars/psi?
 

bertsmobile1

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IF there is a spark and it wont fire with your favoutire startig goop down the plug hole then either the valves are no opening or the timing key in the flywheel is sheared and it is out of time.
 

ILENGINE

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I have not pulled the valve cover off again - although I came close. It was the aluminum push rod that was bent, and because the steel one was straight, I considered swapping the bent Al rod with the extra steel one, but figured it was made of Al for a reason and just swapped that one out. I'll pull the cover and see if they rockers stayed locked at .004" top of cycle, but if it is bent again - you are suggesting I pull the head and replace the head gasket? Should I just go grab a compression meter first to check for the appropriate bars/psi?
If it is bent again, look through the valve spring and see if the end of the valve guide(looks like metal tube around valve) is close to the valve spring keeper. When Briggs engines overhead they like to migrate the valve guides toward the keepers until they prevent the valve from opening resulting in a bent push rod.
 
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