Rudedog
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Thanks Reed!
Lawn Boy 2 cycle Ashless oil
- Thread starter JWR
- Start date
Thanks Reed!
dwross
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I realize thread is quite old, but I have a long history with Lawn-Boy 2-cycle mowers.
I am new to this forum. Since 1972, I have owned only two mowers, both Lawn-Boys. The first was a push version with a magnesium deck. In 1978 I moved to a home with a much larger lawn. I sold the push mower and purchased self propelled model which had the F series engine. I was loyal to Lawn-Boy because I lived in Galesburg, IL where Lawn Boy mowers were manufactured by Gale Products, a division of Outboard Marine Corporation until the mid-80’s when the plant was moved to Mississippi.
I have never used any 2-cycle oil other than Lawn Boy Ashless oil and regular gasoline, both leaded and then unleaded. I have self-maintained my mowers. I can honestly say my “old” mower has started on the first or second pull 90 to 95% of the time since I have owned it. .Over the years, I have probably spent enough on parts to buy two or three new mowers. The amazing thing is I have never had to replace any internal parts of the engine except the brass self-propelled drive gear. I attribute that to a great engineered engine and the use of the Ashless oil. Another interesting fact is when I moved from Galesburg (elevation 500 feet) to Colorado (elevation 6,000 feet) fourteen years ago, I did not have to make any adjustment because of the elevation change.
Sorry for the long winded post. I promise the next will be short.
I am new to this forum. Since 1972, I have owned only two mowers, both Lawn-Boys. The first was a push version with a magnesium deck. In 1978 I moved to a home with a much larger lawn. I sold the push mower and purchased self propelled model which had the F series engine. I was loyal to Lawn-Boy because I lived in Galesburg, IL where Lawn Boy mowers were manufactured by Gale Products, a division of Outboard Marine Corporation until the mid-80’s when the plant was moved to Mississippi.
I have never used any 2-cycle oil other than Lawn Boy Ashless oil and regular gasoline, both leaded and then unleaded. I have self-maintained my mowers. I can honestly say my “old” mower has started on the first or second pull 90 to 95% of the time since I have owned it. .Over the years, I have probably spent enough on parts to buy two or three new mowers. The amazing thing is I have never had to replace any internal parts of the engine except the brass self-propelled drive gear. I attribute that to a great engineered engine and the use of the Ashless oil. Another interesting fact is when I moved from Galesburg (elevation 500 feet) to Colorado (elevation 6,000 feet) fourteen years ago, I did not have to make any adjustment because of the elevation change.
Sorry for the long winded post. I promise the next will be short.
Boobala
Lawn Pro
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Rivets & I don't usually see things in the same light, BUT this is something we DO agree upon, OPTI-2 Synthetic Oil, I've been using it in ALL my 2 cycle gear for OVER 25 years now, no smoke, no carbon build-up, AND NO "BLOWN" or seized engines either !!! I buy the 13oz. bottle and mix 1.2 oz. per GALLON of gas, right at a 100:1 mix, YES.. not a MISPRINT ... 100;1 ratio, scares the Hell outa some folks till they try it, but once you try it you'll be convinced, it's the best !! I can buy it at most Tru-Value, & Ace Hdwre stores and some lawn equipt. dealers that aren't gettin "pushed" to sell another line of oils
http://opti2-4.com/index.php?dispatch=categories.view&category_id=165
Hi All:
Oil used in engines has always been one of my favourite subjects. I have many theories about what to use and what not to use but they are at best opinions.
I have been using 2 stroke engines in model airplanes for many decades and at the present time I have been using the following. No less than 5% castor oil and the rest, 19%, and a good synthetic for modern engines. Older engines get 24% castor and 5% synthetic. I do not think that castor oil is miscible in gasoline. Perhaps with a dash of nitromethane, it will mix. The idea of a bit of synthetic oil in our mix is to prevent castor oil from causing the rings and wrist pins from becoming stuck due to the varnish that will/may build up in our engines. We use alcohol and a dash of nitromethane in our engines. By increasing the C/R to about 12-1 we can avoid the nitro.
I have been cautioned NOT to use a 2 cycle oil that has been formulated for outboard engine use as they lack the viscosity to protect our air cooled lawn mower engines. ???????????????????????????????? I had a 59 VW Bug that was supposed to be lubed with a special oil that was designed for air cooled engines due to the VW"s higher operating temperature. ??????????????????? Never found an oil for air cooled engines!! Perhaps AEROSHELL?
In any case, run what makes YOU happy!!!!!
Be happy,
Franchi
Oil used in engines has always been one of my favourite subjects. I have many theories about what to use and what not to use but they are at best opinions.
I have been using 2 stroke engines in model airplanes for many decades and at the present time I have been using the following. No less than 5% castor oil and the rest, 19%, and a good synthetic for modern engines. Older engines get 24% castor and 5% synthetic. I do not think that castor oil is miscible in gasoline. Perhaps with a dash of nitromethane, it will mix. The idea of a bit of synthetic oil in our mix is to prevent castor oil from causing the rings and wrist pins from becoming stuck due to the varnish that will/may build up in our engines. We use alcohol and a dash of nitromethane in our engines. By increasing the C/R to about 12-1 we can avoid the nitro.
I have been cautioned NOT to use a 2 cycle oil that has been formulated for outboard engine use as they lack the viscosity to protect our air cooled lawn mower engines. ???????????????????????????????? I had a 59 VW Bug that was supposed to be lubed with a special oil that was designed for air cooled engines due to the VW"s higher operating temperature. ??????????????????? Never found an oil for air cooled engines!! Perhaps AEROSHELL?
In any case, run what makes YOU happy!!!!!
Be happy,
Franchi
AnthemBassMan
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Lawn Boy DOES recommend using a TW-C3 approved oil when not using Lawn Boy oil. Unlike chainsaws, trimmers, blowers, etc... Lawn Boy run at a much lower RPM and have a forced air cooling setup. Thus the recommendation of an ashless 2 stroke oil.
L8R,
Matt
L8R,
Matt
Hi Russ:
Good question! It has been many years since I was told this "fact" but if I remember correctly, it came from a spokesperson from OMC. His caution was based on the premise that oils for outboard engines had less viscosity to enable them to be used in engines that were oil injected. I took this information with a large grain of salt due to the idea that the oil was diluted a great deal in the gasoline. I have not seen Saybolt figures for various two cycle oils, have you? Use whatever turns your crank and sleep well at night.
Ash less two cycle oil?? Is this not a prime resituate for all two cycle oils? Advertising hype at its best! There has been more disinformation about engine oils than perhaps another product in history. Anybody remember Arco oil from the 70's that had graphite added for an antifriction additive. Great idea but it appeared to be "dirty" when new. A sales flop. I have read that zinc has been removed from motor oils to add to the bottom line. A great anti wear ingredient that may still only be found in oils for Diesel engines. I would use it but I can only find it in 20-50 weight.
Have a good day,
Franchi
Good question! It has been many years since I was told this "fact" but if I remember correctly, it came from a spokesperson from OMC. His caution was based on the premise that oils for outboard engines had less viscosity to enable them to be used in engines that were oil injected. I took this information with a large grain of salt due to the idea that the oil was diluted a great deal in the gasoline. I have not seen Saybolt figures for various two cycle oils, have you? Use whatever turns your crank and sleep well at night.
Ash less two cycle oil?? Is this not a prime resituate for all two cycle oils? Advertising hype at its best! There has been more disinformation about engine oils than perhaps another product in history. Anybody remember Arco oil from the 70's that had graphite added for an antifriction additive. Great idea but it appeared to be "dirty" when new. A sales flop. I have read that zinc has been removed from motor oils to add to the bottom line. A great anti wear ingredient that may still only be found in oils for Diesel engines. I would use it but I can only find it in 20-50 weight.
Have a good day,
Franchi
Teds
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It doesn't like to blend in gasoline in cold temperatures, but it is long been used as a premix in 2 stroke dirt bike motocross. Castor 927 is about 70% Castor oil and some "modified fatty acids". Some people run castor in their mowers because they like the odor.
Teds
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Zinc and phosphorous. Reductions are (I guess...) due to exhaust catalyst contamination. Rumored to contribute to cam lobe failure particularly in older solid lifter engines. "Break-in" oils usually have lots of zinc and phosphorous.
Rotella is available in 15/40, many people run it exclusively year round in everything from their weedwhacker to the roadgrader and everything in between.