TWM140 is beating me!

Paxman

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Hi!

First post on this forum. I'm writing from Sweden so please be gentle if my English isn't perfect. :smile:

So, I have a Tecumseh TWM140 6.0 HP motor on a riding mower that have me really stumped. I can usually fix engines that won't start or I'll be able to determine that it's a lost cause...but this one is an enigma to me. I bought it as a non runner and the plan was to fix it and sell it with a small profit. So far it owes me about $80.

The previous owner was given the mower in another deal and had gotten a carb kit for it. He told me it was leaking fuel from the carb after he put it back together. I took the carb apart and found that the needle seat was missing. I got a new kit, cleaned the carb and put it all back together. The engine was given new fuel, spark plug and oil before I tried to start it. It did start and after some tweaking of the carb i was able to run it for awhile. It didn't run perfect and suddenly it just died, like the spark was killed. I checked for spark and it was there, so was the fuel. I tried to prime with some fuel directly into the cylinder and it fired but wouldn't run.

After several attempt to get it to run I gave up and ordered a replacement carb with new air filter from China. It took forever to get here, but it finally arrived last week. I had to modify the fitting for the fuel line since it needed to be 90° angle and the carb had a straight fitting. I also used the old shaft for the choke to be able to use the linkage arm.

Today I tried to start it again. First try was encouraging...it started after a few pulls and ran pretty good for a few seconds...then it just died the same way again, just like the kill switch was activated. I tried all my tricks: fuel directly in the cylinder, turning the mixture screw in or out, ether (starter fluid?), choke/no choke, full throttle/half throttle/no throttle. It will fire and sometimes even run for a few seconds but I haven't been able to get it to run. I can't identify one thing that makes it fire...it seems to be completely random. Aaaaargh!!! My arm is numb and my hand is blistered after pulling the pull cord 100 times!

I checked the compression and it was about 90 PSI. I don't know what it's supposed to be but I don't think that it's that bad. I have checked the spark and it is there, but I have a feeling that it's not that strong. The ignition is solid state so there are no points to check.

Any suggestions what I can do? I can't sell the thing if it's not reliable to start and run fine.
 

tom3

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I'm guessing it's heat related. I'd try a new spark plug first, then the coil. Might have spark with no real compression acting on the spark plug but failing when in the cylinder.
 

Fish

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If for some reason you tried to remove the flywheel, you might have sheared the timing key.
 

Paxman

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I'm guessing it's heat related. I'd try a new spark plug first, then the coil. Might have spark with no real compression acting on the spark plug but failing when in the cylinder.

The plug is brand new. I don't think heat is relevant since it just ran maybe 10 seconds until it just died.
 

Paxman

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If for some reason you tried to remove the flywheel, you might have sheared the timing key.

I haven't touched the flywheel...but the key might have been sheared before I got the mover. Should I remove the flywheel just to check? The strange thing is that the engine have been running just fine in (short) periods just to be really obstinate later. It's just so weird...
 

Scrubcadet10

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Won't hurt at all to check the flywheel key.
It should line up to make a perfect square.

P.S. I think your English is better than most Americans who post on here!
 

Paxman

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Won't hurt at all to check the flywheel key.
It should line up to make a perfect square.

P.S. I think your English is better than most Americans who post on here!

Well, I'm out of ideas so I might as well pull the flywheel and check. Is it possible to do that without a puller? Putting some tension from below after loosening the nut so it lines up with the crank shaft end and tap with a hammer?

P.S Thank you! :redface:
 

Fish

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Tecumseh made several different shape flywheel keys, removing the nut would tell you, worth a peek. But the nut must be torqued down enough when you re-intall it, or it will shear pretty soon.
 

Fish

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Looks like yours is the one that is a regular woodruff key.

tecumseh32589-603x452.jpg
 

Paxman

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Thanks!

I'll remove the nut and take a look. I guess I'll see if the key is sheared with it gone.
 
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