Bagger OMGX25572 issue

CajunMan89

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You're welcome! There are youtube videos out there, but none that I like from a professional standpoint. I will include a link at the bottom of a video that will get you on the right track. The guy in the video does it correctly, but doesn't explain the procedure thoroughly enough for someone just learning to do it.
To adjust the deck is simple:
1. Buy a deck leveling tool as referenced in the video. They are fairly cheap. (There are guys out there that use pieces of wood and measure off the deck shell. Do not do this! It is not accurate!)
2. Set your tire pressures. 12-14psi in front, 10-12psi in rear.
3. Park machine on a level surface and set your lift height handle at the 3 position.
4. Check your side to side level. Reach under the deck and turn the blade until it is pointing side to side. Using the deck leveling tool, measure from the ground to the outermost blade tip. Do this for the right and left blade. The measurement should be 3 inches, plus or minus 1/16th inch. (the naked eye won't be able to tell if you're off by 1/16th inch)
5. Locate the adjusters mentioned in the video, and adjust your deck up to 3 inches.
6. For the front to back level, we will just use the right blade since we can access it easier. Point the right blade front to back. Adjust the front link as shown in the video to set your front to back level. You will want the measurement at the front tip to be 1/8-1/4 inch LOWER than the rear tip as explained in the video. This ensures the front tip does all the work as the blade is spinning. If it were perfectly level, both tips would be cutting, thus creating twice the load and overworking the machine.

https://youtu.be/pigBRailqTY


Awesome video! Yes, I've seen some with people using wood, never thought that was a good idea!

I figure that this would be the best price for a level, since my local dealer would probably be higher. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-JOHN-D...924603?hash=item48a4d2d03b:g:mpcAAOSwEZdaCwu7

If this is the correct level, I'll post back as soon as it comes in and I get it leveled.

Thanks again!
 
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CajunMan89

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Yes, that is the correct one. Let me know how you make out!

Got the level in today. I hope to get it leveled this week. I'll post again if I end up having issues, but don't foresee any.

I experimented with cutting at level 3 for an actual cut of 2.5 inches above ground. Cutting at an actual 3 inches seemed too tall for my grass, and because it grows so fast, I'd be cutting again sooner than usual.

Here are pictures I took after cutting my field. The grass was at least 8 inches tall in some places, and I guess because of that, it was still a bit wet. I had to pass over it a second time to pick it up. But as you can see from my pile, I think the bagger is doing it's job! What do you think?

P1020469.jpg P1020468.jpg


Thanks again for all your help! Sad that the bagger instructions don't tell you anything about the deck height for using these! I was able to pick up my leaves at a lower level than that, and assumed I could do the same with grass. I couldn't even understand the assembly instructions; luckily I was able to find a Youtube video for help!
 

normanthums

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Multiple design issues bagging. Hi lift blades are a must. Because of design there is no way for deck to get air from above unlike spindles of AYP so if you are cutting short in very dense grass that becomes a problem. The design of the chute has high points that restrict flow. And not particularly your problem is the basket design. A previous mower had solid plastic tubs which allowed easy emptying. Also having to suck all air from below cause it to suck more dirt and in sand extra wear.
 

CajunMan89

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Yes, that is the correct one. Let me know how you make out!


I think the leveling was a success. It only step cuts on areas that are horribly unlevel on my property...everywhere else looks great!

20190926_182132[1].jpg
 

CajunMan89

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Excellent. Thanks for letting us know!

You're welcome; thanks a million for all the help!

This thought just came to me with all that leveling I had to do. How do I know if my scalp wheels are set to the correct level? If they need to be lowered, I figure that may help the quality of my cut as well.
 
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You're welcome; thanks a million for all the help!

This thought just came to me with all that leveling I had to do. How do I know if my scalp wheels are set to the correct level? If they need to be lowered, I figure that may help the quality of my cut as well.

Youre welcome! The rule of thumb for gauge wheels is to have them approximately 1/2 inch off the ground (or make sure you can fit your finger between the wheel and the ground) when the deck is lowered to the desired cutting height.
Their only job is to keep the deck from pitching too much on uneven ground or to prevent the blades from scalping.
Some folks get a misconception and think those little wheels need to be on the ground.
Nothing could be further from the truth.
If you run those wheels on the ground, the deck will bounce around the whole time you are mowing because those little wheels will find every divot in your yard!
Over time, this will wear out all your lift linkage, bend your deck (and maybe break the wheel off) and make it almost impossible to ever level your deck properly.
The deck is made to hang from the tractor, therefore, it needs no support from the ground, except to prevent scalping.
Hope this helps!
 

tom3

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Always wondered how to actually adjust those deck wheels. Thanks for the info!
 
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