Hello from the UK -Tecumseh 6.5HP Toro 22" Recycler fails to start...help!

My internet search led me here and hope you guys with all the imperial tools can help me!

My first post but I have a big problem with my Toro 22" Recycler which has completely died.
Pic of the offending "guaranteed to start" mower below.



Pic of the only label I can find (assume its a 20072 model)


These are rare in the UK and parts are scarce but I have had this for around 15 years now and apart from routine stuff ie oil/plug/filter and last year a carb rebuild its been great.
I am fairly comfortable DIY wise and usually manage to fix things when they break....but(so far) not this time.

Used it last week absolutely fine although its been struggling a bit to start when cold...yesterday as dead as a dodo.

Checked as much as I can I think......in the absence of new parts.

Flywheel looks fine...although I havent taken it off....no play turns fine.
Gaps looks fine (business card depth) to coil.
No spark at all even with the kill wire disconnected.
New plug tried
Wire goes open close circuit when operating the handle...so unlikely to be kill switch.
My conclusion is a bad coil but the resistance measurements seem in the right ballpark??

Can anyone tell me if the coil is good or bad based on the measurements in the picture below?


Should the meaurement B-->C not be open circuit? Its giving me 0.4Kohm?


This is the coil


I havent been able to find an original coil here but have believe its a type 34443c ordered this.....assuming it will fit ok
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073XHWSNP/ref=pe_3187911_185740111_TE_item


Sorry for the long first post.

Thanks in advance for any comments!

The model label on those Toros is actually located inside the rear bagger door. It may be covered up with dirt. But you're probably right about it being a 20072.

Replacing the coil sounds like a plan to me. Have you checked the local mower shops to make sure nobody has a used coil off a parts engine?

The coil part number has superseded to 34443D, which you should receive for a good supplier. Taking resistance readings on today’s coils doesn’t mean much, because of the built in trigger coils in the primary circuit, but your reading across the secondary circuit, plug to ground is actually low. Should be in the range of 15K. No spark with kill wire removed definitely means replace coil. Guaranteed to start only lasts for the first two years, so at 15 years old I think you got your money’s worth out of that coil.

Thanks for the replies.
The Toro has been a great mower and hopefully it will continue for a few years yet.
I have ordered the replacement as linked above although not oem and almost certainly of chinese origin.
Should have it later today so fingers crossed it works!
If I get it working again then I will sort out one for the spares drawer..

The genuine part here in the UK is the equivalent of about $70 and I would have to wait at least a week.

Just to close the thread as the replacement and relatively cheap chinese coil fixed the mower on first pull!
Gave it a good service,treating the mower to a new plug/filter and oil change...now purring like a kitten!

Interestingly I measured the resistances of the coil on the new one and only got one reading of 2Kohm the other two were both open circuit which worried me at the start but just confirms that you cant really rely on the old fashioned way to access coils from resistance measurements.

Ordered another coil as a spare so hopefully I will get a few more years from the old girl!

Hello,

Good for you. I've had pretty good luck with "cheap" Chinese carburetors and coils. I know there has been a lot of negative feedback regarding products from this country, but hey if it works and it's cheap,,,GREAT.

Replacement parts for lawnmower engines has become stupid expensive, they almost want you to buy new rather than fix your older unit.

Regards

Jeff

There is nothing wrong with parts from China.
It is the dishonest vendors who sell defective parts as good parts that is the problem

Happy to hear you’ve got good results. One tip with that engine to keep it running. End of season run the unit dry and then make sure you drain all fuel out of the system. To do this remove the petrol cap and then loosen (DO NOT REMOVE) the bolt on the bottom of the float bowl. Allow the remaining fuel to dip into a rag until it stops. If you have time let it sit like this for an hour and then tighten the bolt and put the petrol cap back on. By doing this you will dry out the system and when you start it the next season you will know that no bad petrol is in the system and you are starting over with fresh.