Mower Not Starting

My Uncle gave me a Brute BTXPV22700E, 22" 7.0GT electric start walk behind mower with a Briggs and Stratton 128L05-0116-F1 Engine. He didn't know anything about how it ran or how long ago it ran. I am having trouble getting it going. The battery is trash and i don't even want to mess with replacing it,i'd rather yank the rope...
Sometimes it makes a sound like it's going to start but never catches and will pull rope back hard.It doesn't pop or backfire,it doean't pull to hard and compression seems pretty good.
First thing i did was get fresh gas in it,nothing,replaced the spark plug nothing. Pulled the carb and the jet was completely plugged,lots of crap in the bowl,throttle plate was tight so i just bought a new carb and put that on,still doing same thing.I moved on to ignition,since it seemed to hit every now and then,i didn't look at this right away but now here i am.I checked the magneto/coil and it shows 4.78 ohms,i read that the closer it gets to 5ohms the weaker it is so i am planning on replacing it.

Now my question is,should i replace the magneto/coil even though the ohms are in high range?
Second thing i noticed was that there is no thermostat arm on the muffler to push the vane back,aren't all mowers with ready start suppose to have this thermostat? Maybe my Uncle removed it or the guy before him.
Is there something else i can look at,i checked the brake/kill switch assembly also and that seems to be working ok too

Thanks!

thermostat is part 291 in the diagram.
https://www.partstree.com/models/12...aner-blower-housing-shrouds-exhaust-system-0/
and here is a helpful video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YAqVcdZOZE4

Bad post

Today’s coils can’t be accurately tested with an OHM meter. I wouldn’t replace it until I have confirmed that it is the cause of my problem. Did you replace the carb with this number, 799866 or one off the web that says it will fit? Remove the coil and sand the areas where the coil attaches to the engine. Then reinstall the coil and set the air gap to .010”. Remove the spark plug and and clip it back into the plug wire. Remove the kill wire. Hold the plug against the block and spin the flywheel by hand. WATCH YOUR FINGERS, THIS CAN EASILY BE A FINGER BITER. If you see a spark the coil is good. Let us know what you find. Yes you need the part as posted previously.

Thanks for the help,yes i ordered part number 799866, i will double check for spark

ok i disconnected the kill wire from coil,polished everything up,put it on and gapped to .010,had some non conductive fuse pullers,put boot on and held at several places,spun motor as fast as i could by hand,never seen a spark... so it's looking like a coil is needed after all,i tried earlier but,couldn't tell if it had a spark or not,now in shop,pitch black Looks like Part# 590454

Get yourself a red inline spark tester.
As mentioned they have a neon globe that flashed orange to yellow so is easy to see in the daylight.
Probably the one tool that gets used most often.
I always carry a spare cause most blokes see it when I am diagnosing their engines & want one, probably sold over 100 of them in the past 5 years.