So since it's still raining everyday and my mower is back to normal I'm toying with this weed trimmer. So this is where I'm at. I changed the carb for a new one. I have compression and spark yet it still isn't turning over. Im not in desperate need as I'm thinking of getting a battery powered one but I'm more curious about the trimmer on what else it could be.
My new mini project..the Ryobi ss26 trimmer
- Thread starter Smurfy76
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mechanic mark
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are you using Ryobi 2 cycle oil mixed with high test gas?
bertsmobile1
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Trimers get the starting fluid test.
And if you have a spark tester hook that up as well.
Put it in a vice spray a VERY SMALL amount of starting fluid down the plug hole.
Give it 10 to 20 pulls with the throttle wide open.
IF it goes bang then you have a carb / seals problem.
If it doesn't go bang or you have no flashes it is close to being scrap metal.
You can repeat the test with the kill wire off the coil if there were no flashes from the tester.
Otherwise you start the testing at the fuel tank.
Should take & hold 10 psi of pressure & have no resistance to vacuum.
At this stage, I like to pull the plug ( golf Ts are just about perfect ) out of the supply line and see the fuel flow response to pressure.
If it is sluggish or diminished then a new filter might be needed.
I have a box full of OK second hand ones but would not fit a new one yet unless it was no flow , in which case it is replace then hook everything back up & try a start.
If you follow this proceedure then you actually test the fuel flow through the carb a bit latter on.
Then you pressure test the carb,
same story the return line must take & hold 10 psi.
If it has a purge bulb you should be able to pump 10 psi using it
And no resistance to vacuum
Move around to the supply line
Similar story, must hold 10 psi but do not go over that.
While it is pressurised pump the purge valve, it should drop & hold with every push
You should be able to pull a vacuum, around 5 to 10 psi whatever that is in inches of mercury.
If that checks out pull the carb off, leave the fuel lines on turn it sideways and blow through it.
High volume low pressure air is best.
You should be able to see the vapourised fuel coming out of the engine side & if you can work the throttle to see if you get more at WFO.
While the carb is off have a good look at the piston skirt, if it is scored then the engine is toast.
Flip it over , remove the muffler and check the piston & bore , same story
Now if everything checks out t here the next step is to make up some blanking off plates and check the crankcase seals for pressure & vaccuum , 20 psi in both direction.
Final test is to verify the flywheel magnet position .
Once you have gone through all of this you will understand why service centres charge for diagnosing small hand helds.
There is 2 to 3 hours work there, if you have things like blanking off plates and testing manifolds on hand.
Because every 1/2 trained monkey does videos about how too pull cube carbs apart then every ameteur thinks they should jump strait into the carb every time the thing won't start.
And if you have a spark tester hook that up as well.
Put it in a vice spray a VERY SMALL amount of starting fluid down the plug hole.
Give it 10 to 20 pulls with the throttle wide open.
IF it goes bang then you have a carb / seals problem.
If it doesn't go bang or you have no flashes it is close to being scrap metal.
You can repeat the test with the kill wire off the coil if there were no flashes from the tester.
Otherwise you start the testing at the fuel tank.
Should take & hold 10 psi of pressure & have no resistance to vacuum.
At this stage, I like to pull the plug ( golf Ts are just about perfect ) out of the supply line and see the fuel flow response to pressure.
If it is sluggish or diminished then a new filter might be needed.
I have a box full of OK second hand ones but would not fit a new one yet unless it was no flow , in which case it is replace then hook everything back up & try a start.
If you follow this proceedure then you actually test the fuel flow through the carb a bit latter on.
Then you pressure test the carb,
same story the return line must take & hold 10 psi.
If it has a purge bulb you should be able to pump 10 psi using it
And no resistance to vacuum
Move around to the supply line
Similar story, must hold 10 psi but do not go over that.
While it is pressurised pump the purge valve, it should drop & hold with every push
You should be able to pull a vacuum, around 5 to 10 psi whatever that is in inches of mercury.
If that checks out pull the carb off, leave the fuel lines on turn it sideways and blow through it.
High volume low pressure air is best.
You should be able to see the vapourised fuel coming out of the engine side & if you can work the throttle to see if you get more at WFO.
While the carb is off have a good look at the piston skirt, if it is scored then the engine is toast.
Flip it over , remove the muffler and check the piston & bore , same story
Now if everything checks out t here the next step is to make up some blanking off plates and check the crankcase seals for pressure & vaccuum , 20 psi in both direction.
Final test is to verify the flywheel magnet position .
Once you have gone through all of this you will understand why service centres charge for diagnosing small hand helds.
There is 2 to 3 hours work there, if you have things like blanking off plates and testing manifolds on hand.
Because every 1/2 trained monkey does videos about how too pull cube carbs apart then every ameteur thinks they should jump strait into the carb every time the thing won't start.
