ECHO Carb Rebuild Kits???

seagiant

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Hi,
I just ordered a ECHO rebuild kit for my PPF-210 Pruning Saw.

I finally found an OEM kit from ECHO, but I noticed a lot off off brand kits on E-Bay and Amazon.

I assume they are from CHINA?

Just wondering where is the best place to get real USA made kits and or are you guys using the cheaper Chinese knock offs???
 

MowLife

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If you have a walbro carb then a walbro carb kit is best....no matter who sells it.
 

seagiant

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If you have a walbro carb then a walbro carb kit is best....no matter who sells it.

Hi,
That was a Walbro kit I put in the Echo string trimmer, you helped me with!

This ECHO pole saw has a barrel ZAMA in it.

I just bought an ECHO labled kit for it, but it was $22 shipped for that!

Just wondering if there is a better way to go?
 

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bertsmobile1

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Just about all of the kits are made in China.
The ones that come in a heat sealed packet with a brand on it are good, they come direct from the factories that supply the engine makers or carb assemblers.
The ones that come is a zip lock bag with nothing but a product code on them is a 50:50 change of the parts being correct and another 50:50 chance the parts being in spec.
I can buy rebuild kits from China for 5¢ a piece in quantities of 100 or more.
The square area of good quality gasket material is more than 5¢
I can buy bulk mixed gaskets & diaphragms by the kg for next to nothing ( about 10,000 ) in a kg, but there is a good reason why bulk mixed parts are so cheap.
Metering chamber gaskets come in 4 thickness and we are talking .005" differences, but the wrong one will either cause the engine to run rich or lean
Then there are diaphrams, dozens of them look identical but again the sheeting is different thicknesses and in this case we are talking of 0.00005" increments.
Then there is the pin in the metering diaphragm, they are again different lengths and the lengths are again only a thou or two different.

Over here there are a lot of people with no idea making lots of money selling 5¢ kits for $5.00 to cheapskates who are firm believers in rip off consparices & cartells .
After they have bought 3 of them, then a complete carb that "fits" and the tool still does not work they come to me or toss it in the bin & go buy another tool.
 

bertsmobile1

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Just about all of the kits are made in China.
The ones that come in a heat sealed packet with a brand on it are good, they come direct from the factories that supply the engine makers or carb assemblers.
The ones that come is a zip lock bag with nothing but a product code on them is a 50:50 change of the parts being correct and another 50:50 chance the parts being in spec.
I can buy rebuild kits from China for 5¢ a piece in quantities of 100 or more.
The square area of good quality gasket material is more than 5¢
I can buy bulk mixed gaskets & diaphragms by the kg for next to nothing ( about 10,000 ) in a kg, but there is a good reason why bulk mixed parts are so cheap.
Metering chamber gaskets come in 4 thickness and we are talking .005" differences, but the wrong one will either cause the engine to run rich or lean
Then there are diaphrams, dozens of them look identical but again the sheeting is different thicknesses and in this case we are talking of 0.00005" increments.
Then there is the pin in the metering diaphragm, they are again different lengths and the lengths are again only a thou or two different.

Over here there are a lot of people with no idea making lots of money selling 5¢ kits for $5.00 to cheapskates who are firm believers in rip off consparices & cartells .
After they have bought 3 of them, then a complete carb that "fits" and the tool still does not work they come to me or toss it in the bin & go buy another tool.

The Echo branded kit will be more expensive than the Walbro branded kit purely because of higher logistical expenses of getting it to your door.
Again, getting the RIGHT Walbro kit is the problem.
My wholesaler lists around 2000 kits
 

seagiant

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Hi,
Thanks Bert!

Then I guess the way to go is just to pay for the OEM Branded kit...

As I have done.

Even if it is more $$$?
 

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bertsmobile1

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Sorry, I did not notice it was fitted with a Zama, but the suggestion is the same.
I use genuine Walbro on Walbros because my wholesaler is a Walbro distributer
Zama gaskets & diaphragms come from CTS in China who supply the Zama factories in both Japan & China
Ruxing parts come from another supplier in Hong Kong because Ruxing have no distribution network down here.

It is very very confusing for me & I do it every day of the week
Now days I rarely ever pull a carb apart unless the tool has been sitting for years and is gummed up or it is very old and slow to respond because the metering chamber diaphragm is stiff.
I think more damage is done to carbs by people pulling them apart unecessarily than from failing in service.

If you don't have a pressure/vacuum pump & gauge then the easy trick is to slide the carb off, turn it sideways and blow air through it
High volume / low pressure is best.
If you can see it aspirating fuel out the engine end, it is working and at very worst might require an adjustment.

The simple trick is to store it flat in summer when you are using it regularly then when the season finishes tip the fuel out and run the engine dry
I have been doing that with my Stihl tools and they have never been touched for 40 years apart from replacing the tank filter & rotted purge bulbs.

With the highly suspect fuel now days I mix 1 litre ( quart to some ) of fuel as needed even if it is 3 times a week and only do a gallon mix when we are clearing the fence line ( 7 miles )
 

seagiant

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Sorry, I did not notice it was fitted with a Zama, but the suggestion is the same.
I use genuine Walbro on Walbros because my wholesaler is a Walbro distributer
Zama gaskets & diaphragms come from CTS in China who supply the Zama factories in both Japan & China
Ruxing parts come from another supplier in Hong Kong because Ruxing have no distribution network down here.

It is very very confusing for me & I do it every day of the week
Now days I rarely ever pull a carb apart unless the tool has been sitting for years and is gummed up or it is very old and slow to respond because the metering chamber diaphragm is stiff.
I think more damage is done to carbs by people pulling them apart unecessarily than from failing in service.

If you don't have a pressure/vacuum pump & gauge then the easy trick is to slide the carb off, turn it sideways and blow air through it
High volume / low pressure is best.
If you can see it aspirating fuel out the engine end, it is working and at very worst might require an adjustment.

The simple trick is to store it flat in summer when you are using it regularly then when the season finishes tip the fuel out and run the engine dry
I have been doing that with my Stihl tools and they have never been touched for 40 years apart from replacing the tank filter & rotted purge bulbs.

With the highly suspect fuel now days I mix 1 litre ( quart to some ) of fuel as needed even if it is 3 times a week and only do a gallon mix when we are clearing the fence line ( 7 miles )

Hi,
Interesting, thanks for all the info!

I try to buy good used equipment for myself and if it will run, I run it, but...

If it won't pull fuel, I'm going to rebuild it cause it is probably due by the time I get it, anyway.

I have a big tool box just for small engine work and I do have a "Mityvac" for pressure and vacuum tests.

Just now learning to get deeper into these small 2-stroke engines, and how to troubleshoot better.

Thanks again!
 

bertsmobile1

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Joe Pace ex-husqvarna service school has one of the best diagnosing videos on the web
I think he has about 4 of them on U-Tube
called 2 stroke diagnosis or some thing similar
99.9999999999 % of the other monkeys on there should have been allowed to die at birth and definately never ever allowed to touch a tool, let alone make a video showing other brain dead how to abuse their equipment.

When I chanced upon them it was a revelation to me and changed the way I look at cube carbs.
It has saved me thousands of hours because one can just pull the fuel lines off to check that a carb is functioning.
I use the brake bleeding set up to verify that the internal filter is not clogged.
 

seagiant

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Hi,
Thanks Bert, I'll look those vids up and save them!:thumbsup:
 
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