drive belt is worn and stretched where the mower isn't fast moving at all.

MowLife said:

If the tension is backwards it is possible the belt is not routed correctly.

Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure the spring was loose when blade was inguaged thought that to be weird, will confirm and report back.

the belt is actually routed correctly as per. owners manual.

The Brain said:

can I loosen the frames collar and slide the frame forward for desired belt tension or is the belt stretched to much?

Click to expand...

That's exactly what it's for. Belts don't really stretch, they wear, causing them to ride deeper in the pulleys and get looser. Assuming the belt is on the engine pulley correctly, most likely it just needs tightening.

If it's the mower in your avatar, it's a 30".

yes you are correct the deck is 30" actually there's a triangle label on deck w/ a big 30"

as for the adjustment of belt tension. the procedure states to elevate the deck to position 5, inguage the blade then pull the rope start. watched a bunch of videos and this was never mentioned majority of videos just swapped the belt w/out any adjustments.

I'm not exactly sure where the decks position is. I believe it's set at the highest point w/ the fewest links of chain which is still very low for the snapper notice how low the front of deck is. I have been informed that this type snapper will leave bald spots like at a slite incline I testifiy this is true.

I assume the higher the deck the more looseness of belt, lower the deck increases the belts tension.
TB

The Brain said:

hello I think the drive belt is worn and stretched where the mower isn't fast moving at all.View attachment 44529View attachment 44530View attachment 44531View attachment 44532View attachment 44533
usually mow every 2 weeks previous mow seamed OK.

I was able to mow the back yard yesterday however it was very slow.

notice the huge amount of slack in belt this slack is reduced when cutter is engaged but there's still way to much slack.

can I loosen the frames collar and slide the frame forward for desired belt tension or is the belt stretched to much?

I observed a loose spring in last image.



the mower seriel # 2012912220 it's a 2006 rear engine 12.5 horse power riding mower I would like a new belt how long is it ?

I think it's a 28" deck

any tips on the belt swap like where to obtain a decent belt I'm thinking it's a 72"
Snapper Belt 37X72MA and install tips is appreciated
TB

Click to expand...

The last pic is for the blade brake. It's spring loaded to stop the blade when you take your foot off the foot plate. Halts the blade quickly....

Here's my 3 cents on belts. Don't know the age of THAT belt. Could be stretched. Idler "should" take care of that. Check the parts schematic for YOUR machine. Look for missing parts. Now on belts. You can buy two NEW belts. They will not be exactly the same size. Even thought they have the same part number. Sometimes you have to buy three belts to get one to work. A smaller than called for size, proper size and a larger belt. Find the best fit. Seen this many times. I'm talking Gates, Dayco and Goodyear belts as in quality belts. Good luck with it.

Clean the sucker and Turtle Wax the entire mower. I watch a ton of mower videos on youtube where guys remove carbs and all that grass and oil gets inside the engine. Clean the mower from top to bottom before working on it.


slomo

The Brain said:

I'm pretty sure the spring was loose when blade was inguaged thought that to be weird, will confirm and report back.

the belt is actually routed correctly as per. owners manual.

Click to expand...

Take notice of that 1" clearance at the idler pulley. How much do you have?

Looks like someone removed all the anti scalp wheels from the outside of the deck. No wonder is scalps areas as you mentioned. Should be one where you yellow arrow is, one in the front of the deck and another on the other side where the first one was. Or maybe the 30" doesn't require these? My 33" has them all around. Cuts like a laser beam.

slomo

Update: swapped in new belt purchased locally. It was harder than I expected it to be both on & off cut my arm during the process. This coming from someone who works on boats/trailer/car engines ect.

I should have compared the new to the old belt but didn’t.

There is a procedure to swapping the belt combonation of shifting the trans from neutral to 5th. Bending belt keeper my case I opted to remove the idler pulley.
There is approximently 1” space gap right at the idler as it should be.

The belt has helped a tad however I believe the debris was clogging the belt tensioner and the belt wasn’t the only issues.

I will post image of the old belt held up to the new.

What doe’s the turtle wax do protect the red paint? My snapper has a small shed.

As for wheels on the deck to prevent bald spots this deck was modified
Notice the stripe of metal welded to the front of deck it’s for extra strength.

Yes, you need to loosen the clamp above your finger there, and pull the handlebars to pull the tube out to take up the slop in the belt. I drew a circle around it.

The Brain said:

Update: swapped in new belt purchased locally. It was harder than I expected it to be both on & off cut my arm during the process. This coming from someone who works on boats/trailer/car engines ect.

I should have compared the new to the old belt but didn’t.

There is a procedure to swapping the belt combonation of shifting the trans from neutral to 5th. Bending belt keeper my case I opted to remove the idler pulley.
There is approximently 1” space gap right at the idler as it should be.

The belt has helped a tad however I believe the debris was clogging the belt tensioner and the belt wasn’t the only issues.

I will post image of the old belt held up to the new.

What doe’s the turtle wax do protect the red paint? My snapper has a small shed.

As for wheels on the deck to prevent bald spots this deck was modified
Notice the stripe of metal welded to the front of deck it’s for extra strength.

Click to expand...

Turtle Wax protects the paint. Shines it up like a new penny. Your picture of your mower, that sucker is filthy brother LOL. Looks like you got it stuck in a mud hole or been mud bogging:laughing:. Tires and rims are packed with gunk.

When I finish mowing I always take the backpack blower to the mower. There normally is a lot of grass that gets under the belt cover and front end. Then she gets wiped down with lemon Pledge furniture polish. Same thing as the Honda spray polish for motorcycles. Tires get some tire dressing a couple times a year. These old tires suck it up like candy.

slomo

The Brain said:

Update: swapped in new belt purchased locally. It was harder than I expected it to be both on & off cut my arm during the process. This coming from someone who works on boats/trailer/car engines ect.

I should have compared the new to the old belt but didn’t.

There is a procedure to swapping the belt combonation of shifting the trans from neutral to 5th. Bending belt keeper my case I opted to remove the idler pulley.
There is approximently 1” space gap right at the idler as it should be.

The belt has helped a tad however I believe the debris was clogging the belt tensioner and the belt wasn’t the only issues.

I will post image of the old belt held up to the new.

What doe’s the turtle wax do protect the red paint? My snapper has a small shed.

As for wheels on the deck to prevent bald spots this deck was modified
Notice the stripe of metal welded to the front of deck it’s for extra strength.

Click to expand...

Install the anti-scalp wheels back on the deck if you are concerned about scalping. Unless your deck is rusted out, it shouldn't need reinforcing. Mine is not reinforced and cuts great.

slomo