Kohler Ignition coil question

Smokeeater

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Jun 12, 2018
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I have an MTD with a Kohler engine SV530-0029

The engine runs for like 5-10 min and suddenly stops. Ive ruled out Flooding and it does have spark, but I'm wondering about the ignition coil that once it heats up it fails.

I do a multimeter test on the coil (setting is 20K ohms)...going from Hi Tension wire to coil base has 9,400 ohms and Kohler spec for that is 7,900-18,000 ohms. When I test from Hi Ten wire to kill switch it's zero as well as from kill switch to coil base is zero. I've seen other coils have numbers on the last two positions, but Kohler spec only has numbers for the first position (H.T. to Base)

Am I correct in thinking the coil is no good even though the first number is still within spec cause others are zero?
 

bertsmobile1

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I have an MTD with a Kohler engine SV530-0029

The engine runs for like 5-10 min and suddenly stops. Ive ruled out Flooding and it does have spark, but I'm wondering about the ignition coil that once it heats up it fails.

I do a multimeter test on the coil (setting is 20K ohms)...going from Hi Tension wire to coil base has 9,400 ohms and Kohler spec for that is 7,900-18,000 ohms. When I test from Hi Ten wire to kill switch it's zero as well as from kill switch to coil base is zero. I've seen other coils have numbers on the last two positions, but Kohler spec only has numbers for the first position (H.T. to Base)

Am I correct in thinking the coil is no good even though the first number is still within spec cause others are zero?
\
:welcome:
Rather than concentrating on numbers, have a little think about how the coil works.
It has 2 coils wound inside each other.
The magnets create a current in one coil and it in turn induces a current in the other one.
Only one of these can be connected to the spark plug.

When the engine is hot, pull the plug and check for a spark
or if you don't want to burn your pinkies buy a red inline spark tester and just look at it
Flashes = good
No flashes = bad

No need for numbers.

Now if you get no flashes when hot, pull the blower housing off, remove the kill wire and check for red flashes again.
If you think the engine is too cold, put the blower housing back on and mow some more till the mower stops.
If it does not stop, then you have just diagnosed a problem in the kill circuit that is best checked with a test lamp hooked up to the battery + and checking for grounds
If it does stop, have a look at the glass window of the tester the instant the engine stops going bang bang bang.
If the window is flashing red but the engine is not going bang then you have a fuel / valve/ timing problem & your coil is fine.

Getting back to your coil, it is not just a coil which is why most of the time it is called a module because within that coil there is a microchip the turns it on & off 3,600 times a minute or there abouts.
Now depending upon what is on the chip & how it is wired in you can get all sorts of funny readings and if you are using a garbage HF meter actually destroy the chip itself.
 

Smokeeater

Active Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2018
Threads
17
Messages
59
\
:welcome:
Rather than concentrating on numbers, have a little think about how the coil works.
It has 2 coils wound inside each other.
The magnets create a current in one coil and it in turn induces a current in the other one.
Only one of these can be connected to the spark plug.

When the engine is hot, pull the plug and check for a spark
or if you don't want to burn your pinkies buy a red inline spark tester and just look at it
Flashes = good
No flashes = bad

No need for numbers.

Now if you get no flashes when hot, pull the blower housing off, remove the kill wire and check for red flashes again.
If you think the engine is too cold, put the blower housing back on and mow some more till the mower stops.
If it does not stop, then you have just diagnosed a problem in the kill circuit that is best checked with a test lamp hooked up to the battery + and checking for grounds
If it does stop, have a look at the glass window of the tester the instant the engine stops going bang bang bang.
If the window is flashing red but the engine is not going bang then you have a fuel / valve/ timing problem & your coil is fine.

Getting back to your coil, it is not just a coil which is why most of the time it is called a module because within that coil there is a microchip the turns it on & off 3,600 times a minute or there abouts.
Now depending upon what is on the chip & how it is wired in you can get all sorts of funny readings and if you are using a garbage HF meter actually destroy the chip itself.


Hi Berts, thanks for info.

I did have an inline tester on it idling and it was flashing but after a while it seemed like the flashes were inconsistent, like it wasn't registering spark but then came back.

I'll check the kill switch as you said
 
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