Seat switch wiring converting 4 to 2 wire using...

Troybuilt 54" Mustang

I have replaced the factory seat with a suspension seat and the ride is great.
I am not one to by-pass the safety switches (though I did for the test ride).
I now want to hook up the seat switch.
I may end up just removing the seat so I can get to the seat bottom and grind
a larger hole in the switch mount plate to fit the factory switch. I say grind because the
plate the switch mounts to is in fact metal. The new seat switch has only 2 wires
and the Mustang using a 4 wire system.

My other thought is to use the 2 wire switch in the seat now to trigger relays
and wire the factory plug to a set of relays. I think I will need 2 relays because it seams that
when the switch is closed (you sit) 2 pins are open and 2 pins are closed and when you get up
the 2 pins that were closed are then open and the ones that were closed are now open.
Using 2 relays will keep the wires separated. But, it may be that I can use one relay.


So rather than re-invent the wheel here. Has anyone converted a 4 wire seat system to a 2 wire system
using relays? If not can it be done and am I on the right track?

Thanks

The 4 tang switches are fitted to engines with electrical systems designed to prevent people bypassing the seat switch.
Thank all the red neck idiot morons posting 1000's of videos to show the world how smart they are because their dog ( who is more intelligent than most of them ) worked out how to disable the switch for which they claimed the credit for.

Get your wiring diagram which you will find in the IPL for your mower.
There are 2 varieties of 4 prong switches
on the 2 x 2 ones, on pair of contacts open when the sea is occupied & the other closes when the seat is occupied
thus one pair can be let open ( taped up ) and the other pair attached to your 2 pin switch.
The other is a flat switch .
Two of the tangs are tied together and are ground contacts
The other two will either both go to ground or both go open when you sit on the seat.

I never directly tell any one how to bypass a safety switch so hope you can follow what I am saying.
IF you have a flat switch, and we number them 1,2,3,4
1&2 will be ground & tied together so check the plug for the ground contacts , they will be 1 & 2 on the switch.
Then pop your meter on 3 & 4 to see which way they switch when the plunger is depressed.

Here is the wiring diagram.
You will find it on page 27

The wiring diagram as you can see is part of the IPL.
It is very common for mower factories to issue new operators manuals for each year but only list the IPL for the first year of production until there is a physical change other than a bigger engine.
Thus when you search your model number on the try-bilt site 17CDCACW066 all you come up with is owners manuals .
Your IPL is not listed against YOUR model number 17CDCACW066 but rather against the earlier model number 17AFCACS011
It may or may not show in this hot link depending upon how Troy-bilts server is configured https://www.troybilt.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/DisplayOwnersManualList?storeId=10001&catalogId=14102&langId=-1&logoCode=02&modelNumber=17AFCACS011&serialNumber=
in any case I will try to add the pdf to the bottom of this reply
It was too big

Re: Seat switch wiring converting 4 to 2 wire. UPDATE and DONE

testfly said:

Troybuilt 54" Mustang

I have replaced the factory seat with a suspension seat and the ride is great.
I am not one to by-pass the safety switches (though I did for the test ride).
I now want to hook up the seat switch.
I may end up just removing the seat so I can get to the seat bottom and grind
a larger hole in the switch mount plate to fit the factory switch. I say grind because the
plate the switch mounts to is in fact metal. The new seat switch has only 2 wires
and the Mustang using a 4 wire system.

My other thought is to use the 2 wire switch in the seat now to trigger relays
and wire the factory plug to a set of relays. I think I will need 2 relays because it seams that
when the switch is closed (you sit) 2 pins are open and 2 pins are closed and when you get up
the 2 pins that were closed are then open and the ones that were closed are now open.
Using 2 relays will keep the wires separated. But, it may be that I can use one relay.


So rather than re-invent the wheel here. Has anyone converted a 4 wire seat system to a 2 wire system
using relays? If not can it be done and am I on the right track?

Thanks

Click to expand...

UPDATE:

I was able to get my Troy-Built 4 wire seat switch converted so it works the same way using a 2 wire seat switch.
For the conversion I used two 5 pin relays, a 2 wire "NO" seat switch and hookup wire.

I will provide the following detailed information "NOT" to show you how to do a conversion but to show "How I Did" my conversion.
If you use the information you do so at your own risk.

Note: Since I made no changes to the factory wiring, at anytime the system can be changed back to using the factory
4 pin seat switch by unplugging the added parts and plugging in the factory 4 pin seat switch.

Use the link below to view detailed pictures of each step.
http://www.seabreezeparachutes.com/troybuilt-54/view.html


Mow Safe Everyone!

Regards,
Troy

There is an error in the way I thought the 4 wire seat switch worked on my mower
and I could not find a way to go back and correct (edit) my post.

In short "when not" in the seat pins 1 & 4 are connected and pins 2 & 3 are connected and
"when sitting" in the seat none of the pins are connected

I was asked to make a video on how I did the 4 wire to a 2 wire seat "safety switch" conversion.

Here is a link to the video: https://youtu.be/rOJFpbG4MZI

This type of setup could be adapted to many different types of systems.

I never suggest by-passing the safety switches on a mower of any type or size. In fact, this setup could
be adapted to install a simple seat safety switch on a mower that has had the safety switch system removed.

Mow Safe