Scag Wildcat 2007 no juice to starter

Always great to have a poster with a fixed mower.
The copper wire inside the green wire might be broken where the crimp is so keep in mind you might need to put a new terminal on that wire ( either end ).
Clean the terminals connect them all than after using the mower on in the afternoon of a hot day so it is really dry, paint over it with liquid electrical tape.
Make sure all the places where water is likely to get in is fully covered including the backs of the terminals.
The electrics on ZTRs are quite exposed and because there is a lot of steel to get really cold overnight, very prone to condensation which of course causes corrosion.

Well, it happened again, the starter would not even click. So, I went at it again and fixed it,

I fixed it TODAY by taking apart the module plug from the wire harness plug, cleaning both and putting them back together, with difficulty, as the plastic on the module side is almost totally gone. This is what I did today to conclude it was the module:

1) I tested the ignition switch for continuity and it was fine (see file Ignition Switch testing).

2) With the Brake pedal tied closed, and the steering handles in the in, drive position, the ignition switch OFF, I hooked up the multimeter for volts to the:
a) Battery Pos & Neg – voltage reading 12.70v
b) Battery Neg & Red battery cable to starter at the starter – voltage reading 12.67v

Turned on the ignition switch to light position
c) Battery Pos & Neg – voltage reading 12.70v
d) Battery Neg & Red battery cable to starter at the starter – voltage reading +-1.40v

I had tested jumping the ignition switch by using a three way wire rig that I hooked up a remote starter between the battery positive and the green solenoid connector at the starter and the green wire. But only got +- 1.40v when I triggered the remote starter. With the key switch off, or on light, or turning to start made no difference still got 1.40v. There is something that does not allow more than 1.40v volts to get to the starter.
I then thought of a way to find the problem I hooked up the voltmeter to the red cable at the starter and the battery negative, then put the ignition switch in lights position, and of course got 1.40v. I left it there and fiddled with all the safety switches and no change (actually when I pulled the blade switch the voltage dropped further, indicating that the safety switch works) . Then I fiddled with the connectors at the engine and no change. Then I fiddled with the Module plug and I got 12.7 volts momentarily, so we wiggled some more and nothing. Then, I took apart the module plugs, they were really stuck and it took a long while to get them to come apart. When they finally came apart, they were full of dirt. I cleaned them with plastic brushes and compressor air (Better to disconnect battery if you clean with bronze brush which I later did. If you leave battery on you could get a short circuit with a metal brush!!!). I then put it back together, very difficult as module plug is in bad shape, and got 12.7 volts. Fixed! I then covered the plug with duct tape to seal out all dirt.