yeah I looked on hydro gear's website for a dealer in this part of the state. It listed several. None of them have the expertise to rebuild the hydro gear transmissions. They will change oil and service them and replace the old with a new (if one is available). But as far as working on them...butkus.
Looking on line they don't seem that complicated after watching a few vids. But I need to know what to look for to correct the problem.
The problem is the whole process should be done in a dust free enviroment,
If you look at the parts break down you will see a round valve chest with the pistons ( or balls ) in it.
This rotates against a fixed plate with a lot of holes in it.
The holes control where the oil goes and match up with holes in the rotating valve chest.
Eventually you get errosion between the oil holes so the oil comes up the inlet hole then directly across the plate to the outlet hole thus totally bypassing the piston.
The pump & the motor are basically the same except the pump has at least 1 more piston than the motor.
To recondition them the workshop I use machines the working faces of the valve chest & the valve plate flat again then makes up the amount machined off with a thrust washer ( somewhere ).
While it sounds simple, it is a very high precision job dependent upon the two surfaces being dead flat to within .0001", dead true to the spinning axis to the same precission and having a specific surface roughness.
Too coarse & the oil bypasses the pistons, too smooth & the parts stick together.
My man says he can do it 2 or 3 times max after which the pump or motor ( or both ) will need to be replaced.
Both of the refurbishment technicians are booked solid as a cheap rebuild kit down here is $ 600 ( parts alone ) & the cheapest tranny is $ 2000.
When I used to do them myself it was pressure wash the outside, then degrease then soda blast then pressure wash again.
The whole lot then went into the shower in the workshop and after wetting down the walls the box gets split.
The rebuilds with replacement parts is quite strait forward, most parts just slot or clip into place.
If I have to leave it then it gets covered with a damp towel.
When finished it get filled with oil, purged, run for a couple of hours then drained & refilled.
On trannies with no drain hole that means removing the tranny a second time to change the oil.