Repairs Disk brakes - model 917.289253

I finally got the rotor off. I didn't want to drill into it if I could avoid it, so took quite a while researching and asking questions on Amazon. None of the products looked as if they would definitely work, and the answers weren't solid. I could have bought and returned, but thought that seeing pullers in a store might be good.

Harbor Freight didn't have anything better than I already had (cast arms too big). I did learn that the pullers I thought might work were designed for tapped holes.

Next stop Autozone, who rents tools but didn't have anything better.

Then finally O'Reilly, who also rents. I got an Evertough 2/3 jaw 2 ton puller with a jaw small enough to fit behind the rotor. I wasn't able to get the rotor off without heat, which meant another trip because I'd mislaid my propane blowtorch kit. It didn't take a lot of heat, and now there is some clean up to do, plus anti-seize fluid (so O'Reilly will make something even if my rental charge is $0 because I'll return in the 48hr window).

I don't think I'll need the puller again in a hurry, but here's pretty much the same thing (can't find it on O'Reilly) for $41. https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25919-Long-Gear-Puller/dp/B0014WDK5A I used it in 3 jaw mode because there was enough room but I like the 2/3/ jaw flexibility.

Hopefully I can get it back together this weekend (with the old brake pads which don't have much wear).

Thanks for the help and ideas!

It's good to see progress.

Now you qualify for removing a 4 ft. diameter Bull Wheel from a 2" shaft with 2 rose bud tipped torches heating for bout a half hour. :thumbsup:

The problem with jaw pullers like the one you linked to is they are dsesigned to pull of thick things like gears which do not flex.
The approach Senior Citizen took is the better way to go.
All of the engine companies make flywheel pullers exactly the same and I have checked the Briggs small engine puller will work perfectly on the brake rotor.
A jaw puller on something thin like a disc or even worse a pulley tends to bend what it is pulling into a cupped shape.
Doing that actually pinches the item harder onto the shaft.
Pulling from closer to the hub tends to pull straiter so the front edge of the hole does not pinch onto the shaft anywhere near as much .
You will probably find the brake, once the disc can float as intended will work really well.
It is no surprise that you found little to no wear on the rear pad.
When you reassemble make sure you pay attention to the pins, they must be very clean.
I like to polish them then apply some dry lube to them

I've seen what I assumed experienced mechanics do this type of pulling completely wrong more times than not. They heat nearly cherry red where the piece is stuck then put the pullers on. By this time the shaft is also hot. Better, apply the pullers and screw a reasonable torque then apply the heat to the outer periphery of the component to be removed.

I've see many times the part begins to move when the piece can still be touched next to the shaft with the bare hand. That inner part next to the shaft cannot expand until that outer section has expanded. Heating the outer periphery actually draws the metal away from the shaft while that inner metal is still relatively cool. On this disc in question we're only talken maybe 0.0005" expansion while press fits may be in the range of 0.001" / inch of shaft diameter.