Replacing under-deck mandrels

Hey all:

This is my first post on this forum, so please forgive me if I hog things up a bit.

Anyway, I have an old workhorse Craftsman model 917.257645. The blades (having been stopped dead with the odd exposed root or massive limb) seem to be fine, but that old "Star Pattern" on the mandrel is being shaved down. Every once in a while one of my blades will hit something it doesn't agree with and jump the lock pattern.

So I figure I need to replace the mandrels.

Or do I need to replace more?. I can get OEM (or nearly OEM) parts on Amazon for a great price. I figure if I'm going to replace the mandrels, I ought to replace the bearings and spindles as well.

Question: What should I expect to pay for these parts? I can do the labor myself, so that's not a problem. But I HAVE to keep costs to a minimum. Any suggestions?

Regards,

E.

I'm soon to replace the mandrels on my LT1000 42". But I bought a deck rebuild kit that included two complete spindles, two idler pulleys, new belt, and 2 blades.

I've replaced the spindles/complete mandrel assemblies once before, and the idler pulleys a couple of times. So I advise a kit, or at least two complete spindles.

A complete assembly is cheaper than the individual parts.
Always buy bearings from a real bearing shop or a mower shop, not on line & never from Amazon.
I can get bearings of the same size (6203 & 6204 ) on line for 75¢ each.
The same sized bearings from my wholesaler are $ 6.00 each
Which do you think is better ?
By volume the most faked item on the planet is bearings such that critical bearings now carry serial numbers / codes on the inside.
Just because there is SKF / FAG etc on the outside does not mean the are genuine and as for "unbranded" that can be interchanged with "untested & suspect "

Stens, Rotary, Prime Line & Oregon all sell aftermarket spindles as complete units or all of the parts individually.
Their parts have been quality inspected and carry a genuine warranty, you won't get any of that on line.

IF you decide to rebuild, do not take the housings out of the deck.
I am yet to remove one held in by self tappers where one at least broke off.
The bolts are full hard on the surface and difficult to remove from alloy without damage to the housing.

I did one yesterday. Deere D100, all four bolts on both spindles removed intact.

How about bearings from local auto parts stores? I've obtained bearings there when I needed them ASAP.

Cusser said:

I'm soon to replace the mandrels on my LT1000 42". But I bought a deck rebuild kit that included two complete spindles, two idler pulleys, new belt, and 2 blades.

Click to expand...

I buy online, and BEFORE I actually need the mower parts, because I'm in a small town.

The problem I'm having is trying to remove that flanged top lock nut. When I brace the blades and try to remove the lock nut it "breaks" (i.e., the blade slips off it bottom of the mandrel, therefore I can't get enough torque to break the lock nut.) I've tried PB Blaster to no avail. Suggestions?

Weld the blade to the spindle as you will be replacing both

Or grab that stationary with a genuine Vise-Grips. If you can weld, consider previous suggestion.

This is one reason I recommended replacing the entire spindle.

Last mower I had was a 46" (917) Craftsman, it constantly needed new spindles. But in hindsight I simply ran it too fast. I sold that one early & don't miss it.

Thanks for all of your suggestions.

Unfortunately, they didn't teach us welding "way back when" in HS shop class. We did wooden cutting boards and soldiered Zinc dustpans (with soldering irons you heated in the forge). Plus I don't have the equipment to successfully tack-weld the blades to the spindles.

What about an air-fed impact wrench? Or how about shocking off the nut by smacking the end of a connected breaker bar with a five-pound sledge?

As you can imagine, I'm not Handy-capable, and I don't want to teach my kid to take shortcuts. But damn it, I need to get these lock nuts off - and fast.

Any help would blah, blah, blah.

Thanks in advance.