Toro SR4 Easy Pace Super Recycler won't start

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trooper1954

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Hi,
I have the above captioned mower with a Briggs engine..108-4841 seems to be the serial number, and it's listed as "easy start"!!!! It's always started well on one or two pulls, but recently it's become more difficult to start and finally now will not start at all. I've checked for spark, fuel filter replaced...also it seems after two pulls to have serious compression....so much so that it snaps the pull cord out of my hand. Anyone any ideas as to where I should look next? I tried a few drops of gas directly in the cylinder but no joy.
Thanks for any help.
 
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bogdaN

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I would sagest to check key stock in the flywheel,blade may be loose or bend.Let us know what U find.Dan
 
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trooper1954

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Thanks to you both for responding....have included a photo of the keyway and flywheel....I think this may be the problem. Can someone confirm, and if this is the issue, do I have to buy a new flywheel and key stock?
Thanks for any help.TORO.jpg
 
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mechanic mark

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trooper1954 said:
Thanks to you both for responding....have included a photo of the keyway and flywheel....I think this may be the problem. Can someone confirm, and if this is the issue, do I have to buy a new flywheel and key stock?
Thanks for any help.
attachment.php
Click to expand...

just key stock! yes that is the problem!
 
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Rivets

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NOT JUST KEY STOCK. Tecumseh uses different keys for different engines. All are an aluminum alloy. Take your model and spec number to any good repair shop and get the one for your engine. When you tighten the flywheel back down, make sure you torque it properly or you will shear it again the first time you start it. Most common cause of shearing on Tecumseh engines is people trying to run them with no blade on or loose blade.
 
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bogdaN

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Do U know how to remove flywheel? If not let me know and I give U some info.Dan
 
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Rivets

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First get a buddy to help you, yes I do it alone, but have done it a hundred plus times. Second, two large screwdrivers and a big hammer. Third, screw the flywheel nut down to the point where it is level with the end of the crankshaft, no threads showing above the nut. Slide the screwdrivers under the flywheel and have your buddy put upward pressure on the flywheel. You are going to take your BIG hammer and give it a solid wrap on the end of the crankshaft. Make sure you hit down squarely with the hammer. If you hit it at an angle or on one side you can break the end of the crankshaft. If done right the flywheel should pop off the shaft. Because the key is sheared it is going to be wedged on there pretty tight, might take a couple of trys. This is the way I do it, others on this forum will disagree with this method, but works for me.
 
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trooper1954

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Thank you so much everyone...I will try to remove it with the method suggested, and if not will buy a flywheel puller.
BTW, the motor on this model is a Briggs and Stratton, does the same apply that they have different keys for different models?
Thanks again.
 
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trooper1954

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I forgot to ask in the last post.....does anyone know what the flywheel nut should be torqued to I seem to think I've heard 55ft lbs?
 
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