V Twin lower seal: easy job?

Elkins45

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My 15 year old 22 HP V Twin has what I’m assuming is a lower seal leak based on the oil puddles I keep seeing in my garage. Is it a relatively easy job to change it? Does the engine need to be removed from the mower frame or can the seal be slid off and reinstalled? <—— I suspect this is wishful thinking but it never hurts to ask.

I could always pay someone to do it, but as I’m retired I now have more time than money. But I don’t have any new mechanical skillls...
 

Rivets

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Before you start anything, remove the deck and clean the underside and engine compartment of the unit extremely well. Dry everything well, air hose or leaf blower work best. Now run the unit for about 30 minutes and park it over a large piece of cardboard or paper and let it sit. When you see oil on the paper, do your detective work to see where the oil is coming from. I’ve seen people replace things like oil seals, when the cause was as simple as a oil fill tube gasket. When you post back be sure to include all unit and engine numbers. This will give us an idea what you are looking at, right now all we know is a 22 hp V twin engine, of which the are about 50 different models out there.
 

stryker6040

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I did the above to diagnose a leaking crank seal at the sump case, made it easy to locate
 

bertsmobile1

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It is an easy fix but a long one.
I cheat by standing the mower vertical.
Remove the pulleys, polish the shaft shinny drive a couple of self tappers into the old seal and pull it out.
Measure the depth of the old seal before you pull it.
Grease the seal with vasolene wrap the shaft with cling wrap to protect the seal from the sharp edge of the keyway.
Then tap the new seal home.
I do a lot so have drifts but it is easy to do with a hammer & punch.

The long way is to pull the engine and work on it upside down.
The only real difference is upside down you can pull the seal with a seal puller or screwdriver.
 

Rivets

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The only difference between me and Bert is that after I remove the pulleys I lift the unit about 18” off the ground with a fork lift. Now I am able to get at everything fairly easily. Everything else is just about the same procedure.
 

Elkins45

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It is an easy fix but a long one.
I cheat by standing the mower vertical.
Remove the pulleys, polish the shaft shinny drive a couple of self tappers into the old seal and pull it out.
Measure the depth of the old seal before you pull it.
Grease the seal with vasolene wrap the shaft with cling wrap to protect the seal from the sharp edge of the keyway.
Then tap the new seal home.
I do a lot so have drifts but it is easy to do with a hammer & punch.

The long way is to pull the engine and work on it upside down.
The only real difference is upside down you can pull the seal with a seal puller or screwdriver.

I'm trying to imagine how I can reliably stand a riding mower up vertically to work on it. Maybe using the loader of my tractor?

How do you support it?
 

bertsmobile1

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Right now I have a yard crane.
Before that I used an engine hoist
Before that I used a rope & pulley over a tree branch or around a balcony rail post.
When I could get inside the workshop I used the girder hoist that spans the lathes & mills.
Pop come cling wrap over the fuel outlet then screw the cap down tight & remove the battery.
Slip some slings / rope / chain around the front axels each side then lift.
If you have a strong friend, two people can easily stand a ride on vertical.
I am not as thin as I used to be so working standing up, or perched on a bar stool is a lot more comfortable for me.

Most mowers will sit vertical quite happily, some need a couple of old lounge cushions under the rear guard.
If done vertical you can leave the deck on
If done from underneath al a Rivets you can leave the deck on

You can also tip the mower on its side but if done that way the deck has to come off and you end up working 10" off the ground.
I have even seen it done with the mower bridging two trailers or two flat tops ( pick ups to some )
 
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