Cub Cadet 1027 (aka YardBug)

oneway1963

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So I picked up a free 1027 off of Craigslist. The guy "said" it ran 2 years ago but now it was taking up space and he wanted it gone. So I decided I would try to bring it back to life. I'm solidly between novice and intermediate when it comes to this stuff. So I'm going to be posting like crazy (as I hit one roadblock after the other) to try to get this thing running and cutting grass. I'm working the standard procedures now...check for oil, gas, crank it, try to get it to start, look for spark, etc. But today's question is...how do I remove the rear wheel? You can stop laughing now. The front wheel is flat and that came off as expected; the rear one is also flat and I foolishly thought that it was a simple matter of removing the single bolt and taking the wheel off, but it ain't budging. So what else do I have to do to get the damn rear wheel off? Any help and advice are appreciated. Thanks!
 

bertsmobile1

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So I picked up a free 1027 off of Craigslist. The guy "said" it ran 2 years ago but now it was taking up space and he wanted it gone. So I decided I would try to bring it back to life. I'm solidly between novice and intermediate when it comes to this stuff. So I'm going to be posting like crazy (as I hit one roadblock after the other) to try to get this thing running and cutting grass. I'm working the standard procedures now...check for oil, gas, crank it, try to get it to start, look for spark, etc. But today's question is...how do I remove the rear wheel? You can stop laughing now. The front wheel is flat and that came off as expected; the rear one is also flat and I foolishly thought that it was a simple matter of removing the single bolt and taking the wheel off, but it ain't budging. So what else do I have to do to get the damn rear wheel off? Any help and advice are appreciated. Thanks!

They come off exactly as you have imagined.
The problem is they don't come off every couple of years and have the shaft cleaned then lubed so they rust on solid.
Down side is there is not much holding the axel in the tranny .
I put a pair of scissor jacks between the wheel & frame to put some load on the wheel then use an air hammer on the axel.
When the wheel shifts a little then it is more pressure from the jacks and more air hammer.
Even like this there are wheels that have taken better than 2 days to get off.

Others heat up the wheel hub to red hot to break the rust seal but that means repainting the wheel which takes longer than spending 2 days removing the wheel

Don't hit the end of the axel directly or you will mushroom over the end and the wheel will never come off.

Lots of penetrating fluid and hot air gun application has been known to work.
Get it really hot the spray lots of Kroil or similar on the axel.
It will cool down and get sucked into the hub.

In extreme cases I have been forced to remove the tranny, split it then press the axel out of the wheel on the big ( 40 ton ) press
 

gotomow

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Spray the heck out of both sides of the area where the wheel slides on with penetrating fluid and let it sit overnight. Support the mower so the rear wheel is off the ground. Obtain a metal rod long enough to reach beyond the other side. Up against the wheel use a piece of metal that will fit up on the back of the wheel. Place the rod on the metal and strike the rod with a sledge hammer to force the wheel off. I have used this technique to remove automotive wheels that were rusted on cars with 100% success.
 

Rondall

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I find PB Blast to be the best rust penetrant to use. Be sure to put a layer of antiseize on that axle before you reinstall the wheel for next time!
 

oneway1963

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Thank you to each of you that took the time to respond. Your insight, suggestions, and encouragement were just the trick. I used lots of PB Blaster and a flat 2" wide concrete chisel and worked on it from the inside out...hit, spin the wheel a bit, hit again, spin a little bit more, etc, etc. Got that wheel off in under 30 mins.

Some more good news...I've got spark and now I'm going to start rebuilding the carb. So more to come. I hope you'll keep a look out for any future posts for assistance. Thanks again!

Brian
 

oneway1963

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Hi All. So I'm back. I got the Cub running today and took it for a very brief test spin. Well, when the gear selector is in F, she goes backward...and when it's in R, she goes forward. Anyone know a bit about this gear lever and how it relates to the transmission? I could certainly just get used to the opposite action it's doing. but that would just bug the sh#t out of me. Once again, thanks in advance for your reply!

Brian
 
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