Buying Advice Brake pads and rotor for 1992 Craftsman lawn tractor?

I am searching for the part number for the two brake pads and the brake rotor for a 1992 Craftsman lawn tractor, model 917.256820. I am not finding much information due to age. Possibly manufactured by Husqvarna? I have posted here about my great find when I bought this last October. I have replaced the spindels, belts, and blades, air filter, and oil, and have cut with it about four times so far. No problems at all but after 27 years I am sure that the brake pads are TOAST. I have the "clutch/brake" pedal adjusted tight but it just doesn't feel right - as if it shouldn't be adjusted quite so tight, and that I need replace the brake pads and lessen the tightness of the adjustment to achieve the best of both worlds regarding clutch engagement and brake efficiency.
Transaxle is a Spicer 4360-15. THANKS!

Here is a parts diagram of your tranny, but looks like the parts that you want are NLA.

https://www.m-and-d.com/dana_foote_parts.html

And then scroll down to find 4630-15 and get the pdf for your tranny with part numbers.

What exactly is the problem?
And how are you trying to adjust it?

Unless the pads are broken, or if something is broken or missing, then you should be able to adjust the brakes.

Foote transmissions were made in Fredericktown Ohio, and were bought/absorbed by Dana/Spicer.

Thank you.

I am not really sure that I was having any problem - but when I got the mower it had very non-existent brakes unless you really mashed the pedal. So, I tightened the nut that compresses the spring on the break lever, that is connected to the brake/clutch pedal. This in turn DOES give me proper brakes, but then I do have a very firm clutch pedal at the same time. I also notice that I have to press the pedal against heavy resistance in order to start the mower, to engage the clutch but also fight the brake pad contact. I am not all that accustomed to lawn tractors but it just doesn't feel quite "right" with how firm the adjustment has to be for the brakes to have decent feel, yet have comfortable clutch engagement for shifting gears. Hard to explain really.

Since this is a shared function pedal I assume one would want it to not be too tight to make sure that the clutch was not slipping and to ensure 100% gear engagement. I would also assume that the original brake pads would be worn for all of the years that this mower was used. 27 years is nothing to sneeze at, I was only 3 in 1992!

If the parts are discontinued perhaps the best way would be to remove them and measure the dimensions of the two pads with a caliper, and then see if there is a suitable replacement out there for another make/model of lawn tractor.

Blaine B. said:

Thank you.

I am not really sure that I was having any problem - but when I got the mower it had very non-existent brakes unless you really mashed the pedal. So, I tightened the nut that compresses the spring on the break lever, that is connected to the brake/clutch pedal. This in turn DOES give me proper brakes, but then I do have a very firm clutch pedal at the same time. I also notice that I have to press the pedal against heavy resistance in order to start the mower, to engage the clutch but also fight the brake pad contact. I am not all that accustomed to lawn tractors but it just doesn't feel quite "right" with how firm the adjustment has to be for the brakes to have decent feel, yet have comfortable clutch engagement for shifting gears. Hard to explain really.

Since this is a shared function pedal I assume one would want it to not be too tight to make sure that the clutch was not slipping and to ensure 100% gear engagement. I would also assume that the original brake pads would be worn for all of the years that this mower was used. 27 years is nothing to sneeze at, I was only 3 in 1992!

If the parts are discontinued perhaps the best way would be to remove them and measure the dimensions of the two pads with a caliper, and then see if there is a suitable replacement out there for another make/model of lawn tractor.

Click to expand...

That spring is to adjust the balance between clutching and braking.
If you can find the brake lever there is a nut at the bottom of the brake lever on the gearbox.
This is how you adjust the brake.
Take some photos then remove the brake caliper ( do not touch the adjuster nut yet )
When it is apart you will see how it works.
The pins rust in the caliper so do not release causing the brake to drag & the pads to wear.
Fairly sure current Tecumseh / Peerless pads will fit or can be made to fit .
You can also pack out the pads with some STEEL glued on with silicone.

Well, last fall I adjusted the SPRING tension. How should the clutch and brakes be balanced? I feel as if they are too tight now, although the parking brake is functional and the brakes do work. But the clutch pedal is somewhat stiff as I mentioned.

The entire reason I adjusted the spring (incorrectly, or so it turns out according to your information) is because using the parking brake was entirely worthless as the brakes would only have effect when mashing the clutch/brake pedal to the extreme length of travel.

Perhaps in a few days time I will be able to disassemble the brake assembly and find out what lies beneath. I have heard that the inner brake pad between the gear box housing and the brake rotor has a tendency to fall out if it is worn enough, although this applies to most garden tractors, not just this older model.

Unless you have a shaft drive the same pedal that applies the brake also applies the clutch for the simple reason that it is hard to stop the mower if the engine is driving it forward.
It is difficult to describe clearly but when you get underneath it becomes very apparent as will how the brakes work.
And yes the fixed pads do tend to drop out so work over something that will not aid the pads crossing over to the third dimension along with all the missing left socks & car keys that vanish in the night.
The same pedal is connected to the spring that applies tension to the drive belt so if you are stretching that too far it can and will break.
If it is being stretched too far while driving it will tear the spring anchor point off the mower and promote premature belt failure.

Craftsman did not make your mower so if you want any more or better details e will need the model number from under the seat.
That will help identify which one of the 16 different 1992 craftsman mower you have as there are 4 different systems the mower should have.

The clutch should dissengage just after the brake starts to stop the mower ( great English expression ain't it ).
The bigger the overlap between brake & clutch the more the mower jerks when you let the brake pedal off and the more violent the brake action id.
FIW the parking brake locks the layshaft.
This in turn locks the diff so one wheel drives forward while the other drives backwards.
The P position on an automatic box works exactly the same.

Here is the model number and serial.

I believe the parking brake actually just holds the clutch/brake pedal at a certain point. You push down on the pedal and lift up on the parking brake lever and it holds the pedal there. A very easy system but the brakes need to be adjusted properly because the parking brake lever does not hold the pedal down all of the way, nor is it a ratcheting style of parking brake. It is one fixed location and that's all.

It is not a car that you paid $ 30,000 for.
It is a lawn mower that has to be the cheapest possible to make because people will not pay a fair & reasonable price for anything now days.
Thus there is only 1 ONE brake which you can see on the diagram that Ilengine directed you to in the 2nd post.
As you have already determined the parking brake is nothing more than a mechanism that locks the foot brake in the on position.
On the diagram that Ilengine directed you to you will see nut # 50 this pulls lever # 69 harder against pins # 67 which push the brake block # 65 harder against the brake rotor # 64 which floats on splines ( not shown ) on shaft # 44 and get sandwiched between the two brake pads.
Now shaft # 44 is the gear box layshaft.
What is not apparent from the diagram is the lever part # 69 has a longitudinal V bend which makes it a face cam.
The close it gets pulled in the more it pushes on the pins thus the BRAKE ALONE gets adjusted by turning the nut # 50

So take the right wheel off.
Remove the caliper by taking off the bolts , parts # 71 & # 72, note they are different.
Now remove the caliper part #66 and the rotor part # 64.
Clean the splines on shaft # 44 and coat it with a dry lubricant like white chassis grease or push bike chain / cable lube.
Remove the pins , part # 67 and polish them, reassemble with some never sieze or the same dry lube used on the shaft # 44 splines.
AFAIK , Tecumseh brake pads , part # 799021A will drop strait in.
Reassemble the entire brake & back off the nut you have overtightened by the same amount you overtightened it.
put the back wheels on , set the parking brake , put the trans in neutral and try to push the mower
Adjust the nut # 50 till the mower wheels lock up when you try to push it.
pop a brick in the mower then go to the steepest hill on your property.
Set the brake.
If the mower moves down hill. slip the brick under the front wheel and tighten nut # 50, one flat at a time till the mower no longer rolls