Hydraulic Trasmission Leak?

christophersims

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I have a Hustler Raptor SD 60in. - Kawasaki Engine, not Kohler, if that gives any insight. So, getting ready for this season I noticed a bigger problem while doing some maintenance. I noticed last year the hyraulic oil leak a little at the end on the season on the floor, but now, it appears the remaining fluid had leaked out on the floor. Its looks to be slow, but consistent. My best guess is it's coming from bottom of the block, but I'm not cetain. Also, I'm not sure if its coming from the filter or not (it is twisted on snug, but is pretty flush with the bottom of the block). It could be a possibility? There was grass and dust covering most of it, but I cleaned it the best I could without putting it on a ramp. I am looking for suggestions as I plan to change the filters and fluid very soon, but wanted to see what I could do to prevent further leaks after I changed it out. It is on right side hydraulic trasmission. I appreciate any help! I've attacked pictures for better explanation.20190409_201557.jpg20190409_201240.jpg20190409_201242.jpg20190409_201254.jpg20190409_201557.jpg20190409_201240.jpg20190409_201242.jpg20190409_201254.jpg20190409_201557.jpg20190409_201240.jpg20190409_201242.jpg20190409_201254.jpg
 

rick.kinney

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Apr 2, 2019
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The bolts all around the transmission get loose and just tightening them usually takes care of this problem, but under the transmission is a cap with two screw holding it on and they start leaking and the o-ring inside requires replacement. this is simple but you must mark the cap as to how you took it off because once you get it done the pressure will not build correctly. therefore, the wheel will not spin when purging the system. remember MARK THE CAP!!! THEN tighten the screws, but don't
strip or break them off. THE TOP BLEED SCREW IS VERY TIGHT AND YOU MUST USE A SOCKET ALLEN TO REMOVE THEM. FILL THE TRANSMISSION UNTIL OIL COMES OUT THEN PUT THE BLEED SCREW BACK IN AND PURGE THE SYSTEM WITH THE WHEELS OFF THE GROUND LIKE THE MANUAL OR YOU TUBE VIDEO. TAKES A FEW MINUTES TO DO THIS JOB, BUT WITH THIS INFO. IT'S NOT THAT HARD. JUST DO BOTH O-RINGS AT THE SAME TIME TO PREVENT HAVING TO DO IT AGIAN. GOOD LUCK, RESPONSE IS ALWAYS GOOD TO HEAR HOW IT TURNED OUT.
 

Mr. Mower

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Sep 1, 2016
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Good info!

Thanks for posting and sharing. :thumbsup:


The bolts all around the transmission get loose and just tightening them usually takes care of this problem, but under the transmission is a cap with two screw holding it on and they start leaking and the o-ring inside requires replacement. this is simple but you must mark the cap as to how you took it off because once you get it done the pressure will not build correctly. therefore, the wheel will not spin when purging the system. remember MARK THE CAP!!! THEN tighten the screws, but don't
strip or break them off. THE TOP BLEED SCREW IS VERY TIGHT AND YOU MUST USE A SOCKET ALLEN TO REMOVE THEM. FILL THE TRANSMISSION UNTIL OIL COMES OUT THEN PUT THE BLEED SCREW BACK IN AND PURGE THE SYSTEM WITH THE WHEELS OFF THE GROUND LIKE THE MANUAL OR YOU TUBE VIDEO. TAKES A FEW MINUTES TO DO THIS JOB, BUT WITH THIS INFO. IT'S NOT THAT HARD. JUST DO BOTH O-RINGS AT THE SAME TIME TO PREVENT HAVING TO DO IT AGIAN. GOOD LUCK, RESPONSE IS ALWAYS GOOD TO HEAR HOW IT TURNED OUT.
 
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