I have a 2005 LT2400-50D with ignition problems. Ignition will not respond. I have ran a wire from the blue wire on the ignition switch to the positive on the battery and the starter turns over. However, it will not stay running. There must be a short somewhere in the ignition switch, but I don't know how to isolate it. If someone could give me step by step instructions on how to do this I sure would appreciated it. You guys have helped me before and I am so thankful. Thanks, Larry.
Engine 2005 LT2400-50D Ignition Problem - No Start
- Thread starter larrye44
- Start date
Give this troubleshooting procedure a try and let us know the results.
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[FONT="][FONT="]Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]1. * How well you understand basic electricity.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]2. *What tools you have and know how to use.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]3. *How well you follow directions.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
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[FONT="][FONT="]First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
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[FONT="][FONT="]Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT="][FONT="]Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*[/FONT][/FONT]
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[FONT="][FONT="]Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position q(you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
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[FONT="][FONT="]Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]Electrical* problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]1. * How well you understand basic electricity.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]2. *What tools you have and know how to use.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]3. *How well you follow directions.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]4. *You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]Remember we cannot see what you are doing. *You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. *You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. *The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. *If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. *These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. *Now let's solve this problem.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and *voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good.*[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. *One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.*[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]Third, *check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. *If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. *If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. *If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.*[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position q(you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).*[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).*[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. *At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. *Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.[/FONT][/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="][/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT="][FONT="]Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. *If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. *Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.[/FONT][/FONT]
Thanks so much Rivets, it will be a day or two before I can go through the steps you have outlined. I'm 75 years old and do things a little slower than I did years ago.
But, I want to thank you very much for your help. I will follow the directions to the letter and report back to you what I find.
Larry
But, I want to thank you very much for your help. I will follow the directions to the letter and report back to you what I find.
Larry
Thanks, Rivet.
1.) The fuses all check out good. Continuity in all fuses.
2.) Battery test at 12.7 volts.
3.) 12.7 volts from positive on battery to large terminal on solenoid.
Rivet, I have had some medical problem and may take me another day or two to continue the check list.
Thanks you for understanding.
Larry
1.) The fuses all check out good. Continuity in all fuses.
2.) Battery test at 12.7 volts.
3.) 12.7 volts from positive on battery to large terminal on solenoid.
Rivet, I have had some medical problem and may take me another day or two to continue the check list.
Thanks you for understanding.
Larry
Fish
Lawn Pro
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2013
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- 5,130
Put up some engine model numbers, so we know what you have.
If you are priming the carb to get it to "fire", most modern engines have a fuel shutoff solenoid on the carb.
You need to give the engine info, and more explicit detail of what you have tried, and what you are doing.
Pics always help too.
If you are priming the carb to get it to "fire", most modern engines have a fuel shutoff solenoid on the carb.
You need to give the engine info, and more explicit detail of what you have tried, and what you are doing.
Pics always help too.
No need to try to hurry, with electrical problems it will only get you in trouble. I’ll get back to you when I get a chance. Forgot to mention, I hope you removed the wire you talked about in your first post. Would like the tests done with original wiring setup. Hope the medical issues clear up.
Hello Revits, I have had some medical problems and just now got back to my electrical problems. Below is the sequence you gave me to check and the results of each.
1.) Fuses all good: checked continuity
2.) Battery connections all good; checked at 2.7 v
3.) Check from battery to large terminal on solenoid: checked good 12.6 v
4.) Solenoid body not corroded.
5.) Checked small blue wire to solenoid: failed no voltage
6.) Checked power on large terminal of solenoid: checked good 12.55 v
7.) Checked power to solenoid while holding key in start position: failed on power
8.) Ground circuit back to battery: good
My ignition switch has 3 positions. Off, On (with red light) and Start. In the "On" position the red light fails to come on. I have installed a brand new ignition switch and problem is still there.
I can jump from the positive terminal of the battery to the small blue terminal on the solenoid and the engine turns over, but will not stay running.
Thanks so much for the help, Rivets. Larry
1.) Fuses all good: checked continuity
2.) Battery connections all good; checked at 2.7 v
3.) Check from battery to large terminal on solenoid: checked good 12.6 v
4.) Solenoid body not corroded.
5.) Checked small blue wire to solenoid: failed no voltage
6.) Checked power on large terminal of solenoid: checked good 12.55 v
7.) Checked power to solenoid while holding key in start position: failed on power
8.) Ground circuit back to battery: good
My ignition switch has 3 positions. Off, On (with red light) and Start. In the "On" position the red light fails to come on. I have installed a brand new ignition switch and problem is still there.
I can jump from the positive terminal of the battery to the small blue terminal on the solenoid and the engine turns over, but will not stay running.
Thanks so much for the help, Rivets. Larry
Having no voltage in my step three means either you are getting no voltage to the key switch, key switch is bad, or you have no voltage going from the key switch, through the safety switches to the solenoid. Here is a site which will get you a wiring diagram in the parts manual. You will have to trace the voltage from the large terminal on the solenoid, to the switch, (B terminal) through the switch (S terminal), through the safety switches, to the small terminal on the solenoid. https://www.dixiechopper.com/mobile/4/manuals&cat1=10&cat2=275. I know this is not an easy testing procedure, but needs to be done. If you have more questions please post back.
Thanks so much Rivets and thanks for posting the link to the manual. This is where my knowledge is a little lacking.
Although I still have my manual and have found the ignition switch on the diagram, I really don't know how to perform the test.
Do I put positive lead of my voltage meter on the big terminal of the solenoid and the negative lead of my voltage meter on each wire coming off the ignition switch until I find one that has no voltage? I'm guessing when I do find one with no voltage that I have to trace it to find a break in the wire and repair or replace it. Is that true? Also, not sure what the B terminal and S terminal are.
You don't know how much I appreciate you taking the time to educate me. I really do enjoy working on things and the sense of accomplishment one gets when the job is done.
Thanks, Larry
Although I still have my manual and have found the ignition switch on the diagram, I really don't know how to perform the test.
Do I put positive lead of my voltage meter on the big terminal of the solenoid and the negative lead of my voltage meter on each wire coming off the ignition switch until I find one that has no voltage? I'm guessing when I do find one with no voltage that I have to trace it to find a break in the wire and repair or replace it. Is that true? Also, not sure what the B terminal and S terminal are.
You don't know how much I appreciate you taking the time to educate me. I really do enjoy working on things and the sense of accomplishment one gets when the job is done.
Thanks, Larry