Rebuilt Hydro wont purge

scarface998

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Mar 17, 2019
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After rebuild I start the purge process on the work bench, first by turning the input pulley by hand until I can get the output shaft to start turning, then will put a driver in my cordless drill with a socket on it to put on the nut of the input shaft nut and spin the input until it completes purge at least to work bench standards before reinstalling in the mower and doing the final purge. Never had more than just a couple minutes to bench purge on, so I am wondering if there isn't not right about this tranny causing the purge problems. Or many not a purge problem but something actually wrong internal allowing oil to bypass the normal passages.

Here's what i've deduced so far,

There is nowhere else on the internet with instructions on how to purge this specific hydro. there's also no instruction on what oil to use or anything honestly. This leads me to believe that this hydro was never meant to be serviced. So i imagine that its taking a long time because it wasn't designed to purge like this. This is definitely more of a "replace" than "repair" kind of brand. The purge is very slowly working and its not making any weird noises or anything. All the important internal parts seemed in pretty good shape to be honest, so i imagine there's just an air pocket somewhere in the hydro still. i guess it'll work its way out eventually.
 

jp1961

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Jul 22, 2013
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F.W.I.W. - I changed the rear end fluid on my Toyota Tundra to synthetic and it caused a perfectly functioning rear end to slip and start making noises (yes the synthetic oil i used did have the limited slip additive).

I drained it and switched to conventional gear oil and it was fine,,,go figure.

I'm not so sure motor oil is the right oil for a hydro unit, either.

Regards

Jeff
 

ILENGINE

Lawn Pro
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May 6, 2010
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F.W.I.W. - I changed the rear end fluid on my Toyota Tundra to synthetic and it caused a perfectly functioning rear end to slip and start making noises (yes the synthetic oil i used did have the limited slip additive).

I drained it and switched to conventional gear oil and it was fine,,,go figure.

I'm not so sure motor oil is the right oil for a hydro unit, either.

Regards

Jeff

Hydrogear uses 20w50 motor oil and tufftorq uses 5w50 synthetic. I think this guy has the parker drives, which seem to have odd issues, or at least the ones I have seen in the shop. Like when the unit gets hot will pump all the oil out of the drive via the expansion tank. Will actually proceed to dump over 2 quarts of oil out the top of the unit until the drive has no oil left inside.
 

scarface998

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Mar 17, 2019
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Alright everyone, I finally got all the air bubbles out and im still having an issue. Now it seems like the right side hydro is slipping. It doesnt seem to want to move when i just use the right wheel but if i add the left wheel to compensate, the right wheel will get up to full speed fine. Is the oil making the clutch slip? they're shouldnt be any reason for it to slip that i know of. When rebuilding the right side the clutch had plenty of material on it. Maybe i havent gotten all the air and i just got enough air out to get it up to speed with some help? will using it continue to purge any leftover air? Let me know what you think.
 
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