Kawasaki FH601V Compression Question

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Beau

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Hi,
need a little help with a compression question if anyone has any ideas here. As the post title says i have a Kaw. FH601V that I cant get to turn over. Getting plenty of spark and fuel and nothing. I checked the compression on the cylinders. I'm getting 75psi out of the left cylinder and 25psi out of the right. Which on outboards and motorcycles, which is what I've got a little experience with, would indicate a bad cylinder. But I wasn't sure if these engines have some type of compression release system and is why one of the cylinders is showing such low compression.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
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Beau

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Thanks. I pulled the valve covers to be sure everything was moving as it should but didn’t check the clearance. Didn’t think that would have anything to do with the actual compression.
bertsmobile1 said:
Start with checking the valve lash as per the manual that you will find on either the Kawasaki web site on on this one https://mymowerparts.com/about_us.php
Click to expand...
 
Fish

Fish

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Put up some pics with the valve covers off. Rotate the flywheel and take several pics.
 
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bertsmobile1

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the valve lash affects when the valve opens & closes
The bigger the lash the latter the valve opens & the sooner it closes
This affect how much gets into the cylinder in the first place which will affect the final compression figures.
If your engine has ACR then too little valve lsh will open the cylinder for too long on the compression stroke again lowering the compression.
Because the compression is so dependent upon valve lash, a strait compression number is not much use.

Having said that anything less than around 60 psi & the engine will have difficulty starting .

Also they type of meter, how you do the test will also affect the reading.
A wide open throttle will reach peak reading in 4 to 5 cycles, a closed throttle can take 30 or more.

Remove the dip stick, turn the engine over by hand and listen for the sound of air escaping as the pistons approach TDC compression stroke ( watch the rockers to confirm this ) .
If it whooshes, or hisses then the head gasket is gone.
Do the same at the carb & exhaust, whooses at the wrong time indicates valve problems.

A leak down is a better test.

Also please be careful with your descriptions because all we have is the words you type
Turn over is considered to mean rotate not start or run.
 
Fish

Fish

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bertsmobile1 said:
the valve lash affects when the valve opens & closes
The bigger the lash the latter the valve opens & the sooner it closes
This affect how much gets into the cylinder in the first place which will affect the final compression figures.
If your engine has ACR then too little valve lsh will open the cylinder for too long on the compression stroke again lowering the compression.
Because the compression is so dependent upon valve lash, a strait compression number is not much use.

Having said that anything less than around 60 psi & the engine will have difficulty starting .

Also they type of meter, how you do the test will also affect the reading.
A wide open throttle will reach peak reading in 4 to 5 cycles, a closed throttle can take 30 or more.

Remove the dip stick, turn the engine over by hand and listen for the sound of air escaping as the pistons approach TDC compression stroke ( watch the rockers to confirm this ) .
If it whooshes, or hisses then the head gasket is gone.
Do the same at the carb & exhaust, whooses at the wrong time indicates valve problems.

A leak down is a better test.

Also please be careful with your descriptions because all we have is the words you type
Turn over is considered to mean rotate not start or run.
Click to expand...
Yes, don't stick your dick in the flywheel...
It might hurt.....

Just put up a few pics....
 
Fish

Fish

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These engines have compression releases, but who can tell what your trouble is, without more info....
 
Fish

Fish

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Or just give up and blame Trump?
 
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Beau

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Fish said:
Yes, don't stick your dick in the flywheel...
It might hurt.....

Just put up a few pics....
Click to expand...

Promise not to stick my dick in the fly wheel...or my dipstick.
 
B

Beau

Member
Joined
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bertsmobile1 said:
the valve lash affects when the valve opens & closes
The bigger the lash the latter the valve opens & the sooner it closes
This affect how much gets into the cylinder in the first place which will affect the final compression figures.
If your engine has ACR then too little valve lsh will open the cylinder for too long on the compression stroke again lowering the compression.
Because the compression is so dependent upon valve lash, a strait compression number is not much use.

Having said that anything less than around 60 psi & the engine will have difficulty starting .

Also they type of meter, how you do the test will also affect the reading.
A wide open throttle will reach peak reading in 4 to 5 cycles, a closed throttle can take 30 or more.

Remove the dip stick, turn the engine over by hand and listen for the sound of air escaping as the pistons approach TDC compression stroke ( watch the rockers to confirm this ) .
If it whooshes, or hisses then the head gasket is gone.
Do the same at the carb & exhaust, whooses at the wrong time indicates valve problems.

A leak down is a better test.

Also please be careful with your descriptions because all we have is the words you type
Turn over is considered to mean rotate not start or run.
Click to expand...
Thanks! Lot of good information. I did hear the sucking of air when I was checking to see if the valves had movement but not sure where it was coming from.

By turn over, yes I guess I meant spinning but won’t start.

I’ll take some pics and post them but won’t be for a few days. Mardi Gras down here and my girls have me tied up after this evening.

Thanks again!
 
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