TylerFrankel
Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2018
- Threads
- 5
- Messages
- 27
Hello All!
I recently was fortunate enough to acquire 4 free briggs and Stratton mower engines. They are all unmounted, but all of them have blade mounts on them. Their model numbers are (2x 92502), (93502), (92982) I'm going to refurbish these in my free time to have for various uses or to sell, and I need some help. I decided to start with what seemed like the oldest and dirtiest of them, a cream color 92502.
This one was so dirty I decided before I even tried to start it I would clean it up, so I decided to tear it down. I'm pretty new to this, so I dove right in figuring since they were free I could throw caution to the wind, and since I had a duplicate model I could see how to rebuild it based on the other one. Long story short, I managed to easily remove the air filter, carb/gas tank, air shroud/starter coil, the throttle assembly, auto-choke, and block head. Then I ran into trouble with the coil. It, oddly enough, is attached directly to the points without being removable, but I didn't know this and blindly broke the brittle wire off since most just pull off a little metal plate (facepalm). This coil was attached with a wire directly, and I don't know how to replace it. I assume since the coil was wired directly, the removable part is within the points/condenser (if anyone knows why this is please let me know). Unfortunately I didn't check for spark before disassembling, but I removed what seem to be two ground wires, one that was on the coil and one that ran from under the flywheel from the points to a metal bracket on the throttle control thing that lines up with the head. SO I figure I have to replace the coil or find a way to solder a tiny wire together that is broken off so close to the base that there isn't enough insulation to expose to make a connection.... but I can't get the damn flywheel off because it's so tight. I don't have an air hammer or flywheel puller, so I suppose I'll have to get those. I also tried to remove the sump from the bottom and succeeded (in spilling oil I thought I had drained completely) but it can't come off because the blade mount is rusted solid on there, and again, I don't have a proper puller.
Anyway..... I figure the sump and flywheel can be left alone and I can just clean up what I've done and reassemble everything IF I can find a way to repair the coil without accessing the points. Anyone else ever experience this type of issue with the coil, or have tips on how to correct it? Some pics for reference are attached. Thanks!
(Above: Green circle is ground (I think); Red circle is stub of wire that broke off from main wire coming from points).
Edit:
Tomorrow I will upload pictures of the engine where the coil wires are and where the other ground wire went
I suspect the other one may have had to do with the safety mechanism in some way since it was near the throttle assy.
with this in mind I was wondering if anyone has an idea of how I would go about starting one of these with no throttle cable or start/stop lever attached
Also, how dangerous is it to start without a blade? I've heard kickback is a concern, but assuming the alternative is leaving a blade attached and trying to start that I'd prefer risking bruising my knuckles for a week.
I recently was fortunate enough to acquire 4 free briggs and Stratton mower engines. They are all unmounted, but all of them have blade mounts on them. Their model numbers are (2x 92502), (93502), (92982) I'm going to refurbish these in my free time to have for various uses or to sell, and I need some help. I decided to start with what seemed like the oldest and dirtiest of them, a cream color 92502.
This one was so dirty I decided before I even tried to start it I would clean it up, so I decided to tear it down. I'm pretty new to this, so I dove right in figuring since they were free I could throw caution to the wind, and since I had a duplicate model I could see how to rebuild it based on the other one. Long story short, I managed to easily remove the air filter, carb/gas tank, air shroud/starter coil, the throttle assembly, auto-choke, and block head. Then I ran into trouble with the coil. It, oddly enough, is attached directly to the points without being removable, but I didn't know this and blindly broke the brittle wire off since most just pull off a little metal plate (facepalm). This coil was attached with a wire directly, and I don't know how to replace it. I assume since the coil was wired directly, the removable part is within the points/condenser (if anyone knows why this is please let me know). Unfortunately I didn't check for spark before disassembling, but I removed what seem to be two ground wires, one that was on the coil and one that ran from under the flywheel from the points to a metal bracket on the throttle control thing that lines up with the head. SO I figure I have to replace the coil or find a way to solder a tiny wire together that is broken off so close to the base that there isn't enough insulation to expose to make a connection.... but I can't get the damn flywheel off because it's so tight. I don't have an air hammer or flywheel puller, so I suppose I'll have to get those. I also tried to remove the sump from the bottom and succeeded (in spilling oil I thought I had drained completely) but it can't come off because the blade mount is rusted solid on there, and again, I don't have a proper puller.
Anyway..... I figure the sump and flywheel can be left alone and I can just clean up what I've done and reassemble everything IF I can find a way to repair the coil without accessing the points. Anyone else ever experience this type of issue with the coil, or have tips on how to correct it? Some pics for reference are attached. Thanks!
(Above: Green circle is ground (I think); Red circle is stub of wire that broke off from main wire coming from points).
Edit:
Tomorrow I will upload pictures of the engine where the coil wires are and where the other ground wire went
I suspect the other one may have had to do with the safety mechanism in some way since it was near the throttle assy.
with this in mind I was wondering if anyone has an idea of how I would go about starting one of these with no throttle cable or start/stop lever attached
Also, how dangerous is it to start without a blade? I've heard kickback is a concern, but assuming the alternative is leaving a blade attached and trying to start that I'd prefer risking bruising my knuckles for a week.
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