Briggs Coil Replacement, Restoration (Model 92502)

TylerFrankel

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Hello All!

I recently was fortunate enough to acquire 4 free briggs and Stratton mower engines. They are all unmounted, but all of them have blade mounts on them. Their model numbers are (2x 92502), (93502), (92982) I'm going to refurbish these in my free time to have for various uses or to sell, and I need some help. I decided to start with what seemed like the oldest and dirtiest of them, a cream color 92502.

This one was so dirty I decided before I even tried to start it I would clean it up, so I decided to tear it down. I'm pretty new to this, so I dove right in figuring since they were free I could throw caution to the wind, and since I had a duplicate model I could see how to rebuild it based on the other one. Long story short, I managed to easily remove the air filter, carb/gas tank, air shroud/starter coil, the throttle assembly, auto-choke, and block head. Then I ran into trouble with the coil. It, oddly enough, is attached directly to the points without being removable, but I didn't know this and blindly broke the brittle wire off since most just pull off a little metal plate (facepalm). This coil was attached with a wire directly, and I don't know how to replace it. I assume since the coil was wired directly, the removable part is within the points/condenser (if anyone knows why this is please let me know). Unfortunately I didn't check for spark before disassembling, but I removed what seem to be two ground wires, one that was on the coil and one that ran from under the flywheel from the points to a metal bracket on the throttle control thing that lines up with the head. SO I figure I have to replace the coil or find a way to solder a tiny wire together that is broken off so close to the base that there isn't enough insulation to expose to make a connection.... but I can't get the damn flywheel off because it's so tight. I don't have an air hammer or flywheel puller, so I suppose I'll have to get those. I also tried to remove the sump from the bottom and succeeded (in spilling oil I thought I had drained completely) but it can't come off because the blade mount is rusted solid on there, and again, I don't have a proper puller.

Anyway..... I figure the sump and flywheel can be left alone and I can just clean up what I've done and reassemble everything IF I can find a way to repair the coil without accessing the points. Anyone else ever experience this type of issue with the coil, or have tips on how to correct it? Some pics for reference are attached. Thanks!IMG_0335.jpgIMG_0336.jpgIMG_0337.jpg

(Above: Green circle is ground (I think); Red circle is stub of wire that broke off from main wire coming from points).


Edit:

Tomorrow I will upload pictures of the engine where the coil wires are and where the other ground wire went
I suspect the other one may have had to do with the safety mechanism in some way since it was near the throttle assy.
with this in mind I was wondering if anyone has an idea of how I would go about starting one of these with no throttle cable or start/stop lever attached
Also, how dangerous is it to start without a blade? I've heard kickback is a concern, but assuming the alternative is leaving a blade attached and trying to start that I'd prefer risking bruising my knuckles for a week.
 
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Hey Mon Ami you came to the right forum for advice ..........

1st ....... Yes bolt the engine to a mower frame and install a blade.... Under size doesn't matter.... That is your extra weight so you don't get a kick back......

2nd ...... The wire with the connector spade that has the hole in it goes under the coil mounting bolt......

3rd ...... The wire you broke off can be soldered back together.... Use heat shrink tubing to insulate it......

4th ...... You can use a newer coil from a 3 to 4 1/2 HP Briggs engine and that will eliminate the points..........

Some pictures will be nice to post , but I know the engines well that you have...........

I will be on here till 2 AM tonight, but I won't be back on here till around noon tomorrow and then back on around 4 PM. tomorrow......

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!
 

ILENGINE

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I wouldn't worry so much about the wires. From the rust on the surface of the lamination on the coil, I am betting that they are swelled,and if they are will need to be replaced anyway due to the disruption of magnetic flow, will cause loss of fire. if you get a new coil from Briggs you won't get the one for the points anyway, it will be solid state with points requires.
 

TylerFrankel

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Hey Mon Ami you came to the right forum for advice ..........

1st ....... Yes bolt the engine to a mower frame and install a blade.... Under size doesn't matter.... That is your extra weight so you don't get a kick back......

2nd ...... The wire with the connector spade that has the hole in it goes under the coil mounting bolt......

3rd ...... The wire you broke off can be soldered back together.... Use heat shrink tubing to insulate it......

4th ...... You can use a newer coil from a 3 to 4 1/2 HP Briggs engine and that will eliminate the points..........

Some pictures will be nice to post , but I know the engines well that you have...........

I will be on here till 2 AM tonight, but I won't be back on here till around noon tomorrow and then back on around 4 PM. tomorrow......

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

Thanks to both of you for the quick replies. This is very helpful information. What you're saying here is that I can simply use the electronic ignition coils and bypass the old points and condenser, which is probably what I want to do in order to prevent the need for removing the flywheel, especially since the wires seem worn badly. However I have a few questions.

1. With the wire that comes from the base of the flywheel out of the condenser and travels to the area near the throttle assy, I am assuming this has to do with the kill switch, or is that the wire I showed in the picture? In other words, if I replace this, will I need to cut the wire from the points and solder it to the prong on the new coil to act as a kill switch, or what? Basically how will the kill switch be affected by this, and if I ignore it can the kill switch just be overridden if it's disconnected.

2. My flywheel has two magnets since its a point and condenser system, but I thought the new flywheels for electronic ignition have one? If so, can i simply block off a magnet with tape or scrape it out to prevent double ignition? Or will the electronic ignition's transistors account for this?

3. Would this work as a coil? (Its third party but I want to test the system before spending 40-50 dollars)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electronic-Ignition-Coil-For-Briggs-Stratton-695711-802574-796964-126700-121700/152638330265?hash=item2389f41599:rk:5:pf:1&checksum=15263833026590f1abf6651842848ac7e6197139e5a5&enc=AQADAAADABkojIFHYtWT%2BANpG6F7t2H2ziylClm81yGy1RFb5mReYyRWQNe9Ks4r4z%2Bj15CMaa8Mz5LulrGpO%2FXcv%2BUq1kqi2pFWCgNIfFiv0f1CIbCWzYE153vRJRrAKLNWAkL0hKl9BGmw2T9rPH4ZBiaLXq97ovgIAStFx%2FhrfeH%2BbaGtnMAUb9RmArFCqNbwaTgx6aOhiHel0drxv%2Bqvg0LL1lGeVlHEr5FzZVEHc%2BK2Zz1Z749t379WW4iAEwccwqZOE5HafQF2GA5NgbwTX0D0MBMk6usEg0sbjofNkZjj8DAHmkKtQaWXZKiIQuUhmOnXNvCmUBLqT6KqDXTz0zhjGCqT0gF8eJsHYc%2BxH6lOyGONmFTjompSm9X%2FVKI4%2FGxpsDVtXB7J3gSAUuq1MlU8W%2FopctiATKlw2WCxuwCuWQCZ05ZL9XmcyybAektKQuNr6cvFrALR6crqu5HjjXeMUWDKpQegecoSzf2268Ui0wEjpQvGKgOJTf%2FpDJIcKtbXgz6TyGbLQf4061kaJrNb7aRIhjQqrOBMvzuJZ2fpYfqlLPstybKNcoamGNFqOubVF8IER7jEuPOkznqTFso%2Fm94lkoHu8l3xKqVOjG%2F6RLJ2uyZKsCFjc2iiWKcCczO014SeiHA8NRYeMgV0g0Jd4XC5x11sHVRAWGlk3GL4PA%2Fafv1Nd9tkKmR%2Fn3UsbixgM8Ps2Pt6H21RyjuoH6JP%2BMKg53tNQ53KtjiEiONqfrAF%2BkfYsRo9WAIaLRLaASwGzN8rxGioZ87Oja28Vafq4L1YfRbygHA%2Bw44Zfc%2F2A4TFQi1aQx3mwpMofTezXIqA9nsMtZ%2BMCmBk%2BAuHh47903Rt7yMwgZ0O%2FVhCM24gjftjqUEZO%2B7iqZo4ASkprm%2FdnRtZXuNXDioJwZHr9gRhkFOG7bQpxSuWUMURL8pO5B1vTNsYRzXcjNuSxINqn8wK0WbZZlFhrwzdSDrZtSPEl2ohSUqxHXHgjEDEjq7RFEriA8n4o2qsOcTlgTrYlMcJmA%3D%3D&frcectupt=truez

4. Can you briefly tell me what the two wires that I suspect are for ground do? Assuming you don't need the pictures, basically it's like this: 2 wires come out of the condensor area, 1 goes to the coil and 1 goes to the piece near the throttle assembly (metal piece that goes over head block). Then there's a wire that came out of the coil and went to a screw on the coil. I figured they were grounding, but I don't know what the two wires that aren't from the condenser to the coil are for, and how much I need to worry about it?

Thanks so much for everything!

Edit:

I looked up how the governor works and it seems like throttle can be controlled at the lever without linkage, however I'm still curious about how the kill switch works.... Interesting how the spring tension affects how much the vane moves and therefore how fast or slow the engine runs.
 
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Thanks to both of you for the quick replies. This is very helpful information. What you're saying here is that I can simply use the electronic ignition coils and bypass the old points and condenser, which is probably what I want to do in order to prevent the need for removing the flywheel, especially since the wires seem worn badly. However I have a few questions.

1. With the wire that comes from the base of the flywheel out of the condenser and travels to the area near the throttle assy, I am assuming this has to do with the kill switch, or is that the wire I showed in the picture? In other words, if I replace this, will I need to cut the wire from the points and solder it to the prong on the new coil to act as a kill switch, or what? Basically how will the kill switch be affected by this, and if I ignore it can the kill switch just be overridden if it's disconnected.

2. My flywheel has two magnets since its a point and condenser system, but I thought the new flywheels for electronic ignition have one? If so, can i simply block off a magnet with tape or scrape it out to prevent double ignition? Or will the electronic ignition's transistors account for this?

3. Would this work as a coil? (Its third party but I want to test the system before spending 40-50 dollars)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Electronic-Ignition-Coil-For-Briggs-Stratton-695711-802574-796964-126700-121700/152638330265?hash=item2389f41599:rk:5:pf:1&checksum=15263833026590f1abf6651842848ac7e6197139e5a5&enc=AQADAAADABkojIFHYtWT%2BANpG6F7t2H2ziylClm81yGy1RFb5mReYyRWQNe9Ks4r4z%2Bj15CMaa8Mz5LulrGpO%2FXcv%2BUq1kqi2pFWCgNIfFiv0f1CIbCWzYE153vRJRrAKLNWAkL0hKl9BGmw2T9rPH4ZBiaLXq97ovgIAStFx%2FhrfeH%2BbaGtnMAUb9RmArFCqNbwaTgx6aOhiHel0drxv%2Bqvg0LL1lGeVlHEr5FzZVEHc%2BK2Zz1Z749t379WW4iAEwccwqZOE5HafQF2GA5NgbwTX0D0MBMk6usEg0sbjofNkZjj8DAHmkKtQaWXZKiIQuUhmOnXNvCmUBLqT6KqDXTz0zhjGCqT0gF8eJsHYc%2BxH6lOyGONmFTjompSm9X%2FVKI4%2FGxpsDVtXB7J3gSAUuq1MlU8W%2FopctiATKlw2WCxuwCuWQCZ05ZL9XmcyybAektKQuNr6cvFrALR6crqu5HjjXeMUWDKpQegecoSzf2268Ui0wEjpQvGKgOJTf%2FpDJIcKtbXgz6TyGbLQf4061kaJrNb7aRIhjQqrOBMvzuJZ2fpYfqlLPstybKNcoamGNFqOubVF8IER7jEuPOkznqTFso%2Fm94lkoHu8l3xKqVOjG%2F6RLJ2uyZKsCFjc2iiWKcCczO014SeiHA8NRYeMgV0g0Jd4XC5x11sHVRAWGlk3GL4PA%2Fafv1Nd9tkKmR%2Fn3UsbixgM8Ps2Pt6H21RyjuoH6JP%2BMKg53tNQ53KtjiEiONqfrAF%2BkfYsRo9WAIaLRLaASwGzN8rxGioZ87Oja28Vafq4L1YfRbygHA%2Bw44Zfc%2F2A4TFQi1aQx3mwpMofTezXIqA9nsMtZ%2BMCmBk%2BAuHh47903Rt7yMwgZ0O%2FVhCM24gjftjqUEZO%2B7iqZo4ASkprm%2FdnRtZXuNXDioJwZHr9gRhkFOG7bQpxSuWUMURL8pO5B1vTNsYRzXcjNuSxINqn8wK0WbZZlFhrwzdSDrZtSPEl2ohSUqxHXHgjEDEjq7RFEriA8n4o2qsOcTlgTrYlMcJmA%3D%3D&frcectupt=truez

4. Can you briefly tell me what the two wires that I suspect are for ground do? Assuming you don't need the pictures, basically it's like this: 2 wires come out of the condensor area, 1 goes to the coil and 1 goes to the piece near the throttle assembly (metal piece that goes over head block). Then there's a wire that came out of the coil and went to a screw on the coil. I figured they were grounding, but I don't know what the two wires that aren't from the condenser to the coil are for, and how much I need to worry about it?

Thanks so much for everything!

The old wires from under the flywheel are not needed at all. Cut em, yank em, don't matter, your not using them.

The new coil (as you can see in the link you posted) has a male electrical tab on it. That's to KILL the engine when grounded. So simply wire that tab to your kill switch, etc...

If one of your other engines has what appears no points (B&S), HP range posted above, I'd put that coil on there before investing more into the engine.
 

TylerFrankel

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The old wires from under the flywheel are not needed at all. Cut em, yank em, don't matter, your not using them.

The new coil (as you can see in the link you posted) has a male electrical tab on it. That's to KILL the engine when grounded. So simply wire that tab to your kill switch, etc...

If one of your other engines has what appears no points (B&S), HP range posted above, I'd put that coil on there before investing more into the engine.

Awesome! So I imagine that this means the kill switch won't matter as long as I don't connect anything to it and it will operate normally (not like a mower engine where the handle has to be held down). Since this isn't going to be used yet I won't worry about a kill check until I use it for something. As far as the others go, there's one that looks newer as it is called "classic" and I'll check it for a electronic ignition. I also have a magnetron mower engine I could borrow from.

So what about the flywheel having 2 magnets? Will that matter?

Thanks so much!
 

ILENGINE

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Awesome! So I imagine that this means the kill switch won't matter as long as I don't connect anything to it and it will operate normally (not like a mower engine where the handle has to be held down). Since this isn't going to be used yet I won't worry about a kill check until I use it for something. As far as the others go, there's one that looks newer as it is called "classic" and I'll check it for a electronic ignition. I also have a magnetron mower engine I could borrow from.

So what about the flywheel having 2 magnets? Will that matter?

Thanks so much!

Have you checked both magnets to see if they are really magnets, or possibly a non magnetic counterweight to offset the magnet on the opposite side of the flywheel
 

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Awesome! So I imagine that this means the kill switch won't matter as long as I don't connect anything to it and it will operate normally YES..(not like a mower engine where the handle has to be held down). Since this isn't going to be used yet I won't worry about a kill check until I use it for something. As far as the others go, there's one that looks newer as it is called "classic" and I'll check it for a electronic ignition. I also have a magnetron mower engine I could borrow from.

So what about the flywheel having 2 magnets? LOOK AT MY FLYWHEEL BELOW CLOSLEY, IT HAS TWO MAGNETS, AND IT IS ELECTRONIC IGNITION (ABOUT 13 YEARS OLD) Will that matter? SHOULDN'T

Thanks so much!

Re the kill switch, I removed the entire brake / lever / kill switch assembly off my 7 HP Briggs and wired THAT wire direct to an on/off switch (bolted to a bracket I made in the same place as the original brake.

No levers to hold, no re-starting, run's till you toggle the switch to off and ground out that wire. (If you have kids using it, might not be a good idea).

 

TylerFrankel

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Re the kill switch, I removed the entire brake / lever / kill switch assembly off my 7 HP Briggs and wired THAT wire direct to an on/off switch (bolted to a bracket I made in the same place as the original brake.

No levers to hold, no re-starting, run's till you toggle the switch to off and ground out that wire. (If you have kids using it, might not be a good idea).


Thank you. I will try to use a different coil and leave it unswitched for now. I will buy one later to ensure I can turn it off without unplugging spark plug or something. I also will try to leave the magnets alone. It looked like a real magnet but I will make sure later today when I have opportunity, and proceed to try anyway. Good idea with the switch mounted to the engine btw.
 
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Ok ........... I'm back......... Scott and IL Engine gave you good advice........

Yes the magnets on your flywheel will work with the newer style Mag coils.......... I do it all the time.....

As for as the two wires on the old coil, one is a kill and the other goes to the points and condenser for spark....... If you put the mag coil on there those point wires can be clipped... Like Scott said, no need to pull the flywheel.........

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!
 
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