Briggs 5HP IC Generator

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

Mkala .............. Here'a link to a video on how to do what Scott mentioned ........ Enjoy Mon Ami ~!~!

https://youtu.be/lmODx4b8WQ0

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A video is worth a thousand words (and then some!)

Enjoy Mon Ami!

1 mob that refuses to do anything the same as the rest of the world.

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Once again the USA are the bad guys.

Thank you all for all advices, link and explanations ! :thumbsup: really cool.

I think I will discuss thinks by topics, as many replied for same subject...

First, about 50Hz and power. Yes most of people here have habit for 120V / 60Hz, while a big part of the world is 240V 50Hz.
I don't care who's right and who is wrong (if any), that's not really the subject. In our case it just mean speed for a two poles generator has to be 3000 rpm (50Hz) or 3600 rpm (60Hz). We don't discuss inverter here as the generator speed has not to match with output frequency in this case.
About power, this gen put out 2150 watt, even if it is a bit less than 10 Amps this give the same power as 20 Amps 120V. Yes it's a small one, but it's all I need.

By the way, one advantage of 60Hz is you have more power with the same engine, especially with old one they like revving But this make more noise too....


About the speed adjustment, here are some pictures. Tried to adjust with the thumbnut (which has yellow paint) but does not seem to vary a lot. I checked the linkage and all is free / moving correctly. If I understand correctly, when I turn the screw to move the little black plastic to the left RPM should decrease ? This release the spring behind (second pic).
Will try again as pictured (should be low speed), if not I have to adjust the governor arm as described by Rivet.



For the recoil start / ratchet mechanism, thanks for explanation and video Boudreaux In Eunice La. and SRTsFZ6 !
Was able to spray some WD40 in mechanism and magic happened... seem free for the moment, can clean all later if necessary (easy shroud removal with 3 bolt, not an issue).


Forgot to mention unfortunately some traces on bolts of head, crankcase cover. Someone worked on it before, even if I prefer when not its not a big surprise for a 30y old engine.

Also checked the plug, it's a RCJ8 and the owner manual (but dated of 1997) mention RJ19LM. Seem to be same plugs with different hex size ?
Don't understand the heat rating, no chart mention one for direct replacement to the other. But it has paint on it, should be the original one. The gap was horribly wrong by the way... about 0.40mm. Adjusted to 0.70-0.80 now.

Yes, that little "thumb nut" should allow you to raise and lower the high speed RPM's.

Usually, turning the adjustment CLOCKWISE (as you look at it from the flat end) , raises the top end speed. If you don't have a tachometer attached, you may not be able to hear the difference. There's a limited RPM range that adjuster /governor is designed to keep the engine at..

Looking at the pic with the adjuster, (the paint missing on the threads), it appears to be turned counterclockwise(lowering the RPMs)


Also, the spark plug gap should be .030". (.760mm or so)

Lastly, you may want to take a torque wrench to the head. The three bolts closest to the exhaust valve tend to loosen over time.

Thanks Scott for information. :smile:

I have a small RPM counter / hour meter, the simple one you wind 5 turn on the spark plug cable. It's not the more practice but works great on all my single cylinder engine (checked factory settings on my new ones, adjusted the idle of my old briggs 2.25HP). I tried to turn the nut but was not able to lower or rise the speed.... so now I turned on position I believe it's the lowest RPM (as on picture).
But perhaps I find why : on the carburetor idle screw is fully tightened against spring, perhaps it can lead to 3500 rpm with no load ? So in this case adjusting the tension on spring with thumb nut has no effect... will see.

For the spark plug, it's exactly where I gaped it. I say 0.70-0.80mm because I can put the 0.70 mm gauge but not the 0.80mm - so I should be on

Ok for the head bolt, the 3 longer one of the exhaust.. they where not tight at all. While in, I decided to remove the head to know more on this engine state. Good new, despite some minors scratches (can see on pic, hard to feel event with nail), the cylinder bore looks in very good condition ! Crosshatch still present, so perhaps not so many hours ?
Piston has no slack at all.


So my low compression feeling should not be true, or not come from cylinder.

I plan to check valve clearance too, I have to remove the fuel tank and will clean it in the same time (can see som debris in it). Will check screen of suction tube but I don't plan to open the carb yet (will do later if the motor does not run properly).

If my memory is still any good, that engine is a constant speed engine. You will not have any idle, just full speed. When you tried to adjust the governed top speed, did you unlock that nut as shown in the manual I posted, section 5 page 17. If you don’t unlock it you can’t make any adjustments.

Here's what Rivets was referring to:



If that is the same set up as yours, my earlier post about turning the screw to adjust is in-correct.
Follow the instructions to the letter from that manual..

Russ2251 said:

Once again the USA are the bad guys.

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Don't believe that for 1 second.................

240 V x 50 Hz is standard power supply for the entire world except for 1 mob that refuses to do anything the same as the rest of the world.

Ronno6 said:

Don't believe that for 1 second.................

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+1 ^^^, the US is not like the rest of the world, NO apologies either...

Don't believe that for 1 second.................

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+2
Neither do I...I was being sarcastic (post 12).
Quite frankly, I'm tired of the negative comments.