18HP Briggs v-twin Vanguard engine guru needed

Sean2202 said:

Thank you all for your replies. I rechecked the valve clearance again according to the FSM. My FSM states 1/4 past TDC on compression stroke. My clearances where all on target set at .005. (FSM states .004-.006 intake and exhaust cold). I have found some discrepancies with my FSM as I believe there has been updates so are the valves still checked this way? SHOULD BE THE SAME.

Thanks for the tip on the fuel solenoid. In my fleet of B&S engines (10 or So) What is the best way to make sure the float valve is not stuck? IF THE CARB IS CURRENTLY OFF, PULL THE BOWL, FLIP THE CARB OVER AND WATCH THE NEEDLE AS THE FLOAT DROPS. OF COURSE IT SHOULD MOVE. I'LL CHECK FOR A LEAKING NEEDLE/SEAT BY PUTTING A BRAKE BLEEDER/VAC ON THE FUEL INLET (OF THE CARB) AND PULL A VACUUM. If IT WON'T A VACUUM, IT'S LEAKING FUEL AND NEEDS ADDRRESSING. IF THE MACHINE IS STILL ASSEMBLED, CHECKIG FOR A CLOSED STUCK NEEDLE, WOULD BE CHECKED BY SIMPLY REMOVING THE SOLENOID OR LOOSING UP THE BOWL. FUEL WOULD BE COMING OUT AND NOT STOP. IF NO FUEL COMES OUT, THE NEEDLES STUCK CLOSED OR THERE'S NO FUEL GETTING TO THE CARB


I have been turning the gas off if the machine is not used often. TURNING THE FUEL OFF AND RUNNING DRY WOULD CERTAINLY HELP SHOULD A NEEDLE STICK OPEN-IT'D PREVENT FLOODING OF THE CARB..

Should we stick to 50 hr oil changes to keep an eye on things better? On my new engine it recommends oil change at 100 now. How many hours or time would it take for a leaking carb float to add enough gas contamination to oil to damage an engine? DEPENDS ON HOW BAD IT'S LEAKING.

Does the fuel always flow into the same cylinder, the side with the starter. The reason why I am asking is I have another engine of the same vintage that the compression on the RH (starter side) is about 15 psi off of the right side. This machine only gets used about 100 hrs a year. I did not find oil in the air cleaner, overfilled, or discolored oil when I drained it. IF THE CARB IS IN GOOD WORKING ORDER, YOU'D BE ELIMINATING ANY OIL GETTING INTO THE CRANKCASE. FUEL IN THE OIL CAN USUALLY BE SMELLED AND THE LEVEL WILL RISE...

Also I have read to wash the prefilter, then lightly oil it and squeeze out the excess. The new book I have does not say anything about this. What is the preferred method? OIL THE PRE-FILTER, SQUEEZE MOST OF IT OUT.

I have purchased a new engine for this piece of equipment and will play with this old engine when I have time. I will definitely try that leak down tester method. Thanks for sharing.

Here are some original pictures that I took before and after. The first is the RH side with the starter that shows the oil around the head gasket area and piston. The head gasket did have a leaking spot here. Next pictures are of after I cleaned the whole engine. Not sure if you can tell from the second picture but the piston seemed like it was closer to the cylinder wall on the side with lower compression than the side that had normal compression. Although this engine ran could it be as simple as replacing the rings and a simple hone? Unfortunately I did not take any photos of the underside of the valves and heads. They had carbon deposits but did not seem extremely excessive.

SeanView attachment 42582View attachment 42583View attachment 42584

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