21hp Briggs And Stratton Intek

I'm trying to get the bottom drive pulley off the bottom of the engine so I can remove the engine, I have the bolt out and belt off but the pulley won't come lose. I'm trying to replace the cam shaft? Thanks

The pulley usually have a setscrew through the side of the pulley. This is a Allen setscrew which tightens against the key & shaft.
I have seen some they use 2 set screws, one on top of the other. One set screw would have to come out & the one under it-loosen to remove the pulley.
Use a soft block or wood, soft face hammer or something that won't damage the pulley to bump it off.
They usually will come right off, if they are not damaged or rusted up, if the screw or screws are out or loosen.

Usually the pulley will fit thru the hole in the frame .......... No your pulley doesn't have set screws as mentioned before....

Get your torch out then get pulley closest to the shaft RED hot and then put the water hose to it and cool it down.... It will turn the rust into powder..........

I'll post a video for you to watch it's easier than typing ............

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!

Ok here's a video link for you............

https://youtu.be/ok0gAomeeoo

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:

Ok here's a video link for you............

https://youtu.be/ok0gAomeeoo

Click to expand...

AND here's a "last-resort" type method ... ( requires a welder and sometimes a torch )

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pk_djKMfwSM

IF your pulley WON'T fit through the hole, when removing the motor, remove the whole mounting plate with the motor

bmsdrfr said:

I'm trying to get the bottom drive pulley off the bottom of the engine so I can remove the engine, I have the bolt out and belt off but the pulley won't come lose. I'm trying to replace the cam shaft? Thanks

Click to expand...

Hey Mon Ami ......... I see that I already posted to you on your other thread...... Did you take time to clean all your connections and other things we told you about ?????

Did you recheck your valve clearances ????? One way also to check a bad cam is to turn the engine over by hand until you get past the compression point and turn the key........ If she fires up then you might have the ACR laying in the sump....

None of this is etched in stone since WE are not there with you...... We only know what you are telling us.... We have diagnosed those cams like that many times on here though..... Yes a cam is a lot cheaper than a new engine and Briggs did beef up the ACR's on the newer ones they make now.......

An OEM cam is the way to go, NOT a cheapy off evil bay from china for 35 bux or so.....

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!