Can you help me to identify a generator motor ?

Hello everyone,

First I'm new here, I try to read basics thing but if I do something wrong let me know. I used forum a lot when I was younger, but not so many since...
If this place is strictly reserved to mower let me know I remove my thread...

I like working on small engines, manly doing maintenance on my stuff or repairing older stuff (or helping others).
Main goal is turning wrenches, as Mustie1 says on videos because I like doing this in my free time.

This week I picked up a used not working generator for few bucks. It has the generator capacitor that fail (easy fix) and generous oil leak, crankcase gasket seem the cause (and a few other not interesting issues for now )
But my main problem is : I can't identify the engine ! Can someone help me ?

What I now (almost nothing) :
2100-2400w Generator (so I expect 5-6hp engine ?)
Obviously an inclined OHV design
It's not a GX clone (carburetor bolts are at same level)
Only makings I see on case are : "*04040035*" .Not sure of start and end symbol, numbers I am.
Huazhong carburetor (no other markings)
Torch F6RTC spark plug. So if it's the original one some kind of chinese engine I imagine ?

I post some pictures with some measurements. Let me know if you want any other picture, any measurement.


Case marking


Cast flywheel (plastic fan on Honda and clones usually) and strange starting cup (no holes, but indents)


4 screw rewind (3 on most engines)


Some reinforcements in block ?


Strange governor arm and governor fixation. It dows not pinch governor shaft, but it hold with two nuts (top and bottom)










Strange two piece assembly for rocker cover. Was not able to remove the other part to see the rocker, don't want to break more gasket before identifying the engine.
Was not able to remove crankcase cover, it's holding on motor shaft (don't know what to do ?)

Any help and advices greatly appreciated ! If something is not clear let me know english is not my language.
Thanks !

Most likely a lifon, rato, or loncin engine. Most of those chinese engines have their parts diagrams tied to the piece of equipment that the are attached to. Usually little to no support or parts availability. Some honda parts may or may not fit, so Yamaha parts may or may not fit. Some Suzuki parts may or may not fit. And the breather in the picture is a two piece cover. the other cover should be held on by another gasket.

And welcome to the forum, where we discuss anything with a small engine or sometimes a not so small engine.

The carb is Chinese made.

If the only main issue is a side cover oil leak, I'd remove the side cover CAREFULLY.

Clean real well and apply a light coat of sealer on both sides of the gasket and re-assemble...


If you have all the side cover bolts removed, alignment pins can be about the only thing holding the cover on.
Gently tapping at the cover in the "off" direction should do it..

I suspect that engine (as noted, likely Chinese), was a very good engine with the steel flywheel, and other parts built heavier than engines nowadays.

Plz post back how it goes...

ILENGINE, thanks for your kind welcome and fast reply ! Nice, I should be happy on this forum :biggrin:

Thanks for the make and help provided. Already searched a lot whit lifan, but they look like "pure" Honda GX clone and mine not.
Just tried now with Loncin or Rato (now I know a new brand ) but no luck. I already worked with an EM168 and it was easy to find parts, not this time...

For the breather exactly, first come the cover a removed, than a gasket, than the "internal part" with check valve, than a gasket and the head. But the gasket stick very well, and for now if I am not able to have a gasket set I dont want to destroy them all.


SRTsFZ6, thanks for your help too !

Yes it is an option, only problem is this cover is stuck on the crankshaft. I was able to remove it for one or two millimeter, but now it move with the crankshaft (until the flywheel stop it on the other side).
I think there is a bearing and it is stuck ? How can I remove it without destroying the bearing, the seal and of course the cover ? The bearing should stay in the cover, not on the crankshaft ? Never had this issue, usually the pin are sticking as you say (but I only opened a few engines...)

I see Honda Honda Honda.
However no name Honda on it
SO it is a Chonda ( Chinese Honda copy )
Honda have sued ( and won ) a lot of Chinese companies thus it is not uncommon to find a knock off engine to be a mixture of different model Honda parts.
If there is no name anywhere then it is a made to customer specification knock off engine & replacement parts wil require some Sherlock Homes type sluthing.

No knock off engines come with any servie information other than what is in the handbook.

That engine very likely does NOT have a separate roller/needle bearing in the cover for the crankshaft.

Push the cover back in and make sure ALL rust / corrosion is off the crankshaft. It just takes a knats hair to stop that cover from coming off..

Some penetrating oil in the alignment pins, down into the crank and side cover and gentle tapping from all sides to the cover should get things moving. Back and forth, back and forth, definitly do NOT force it hard, it'll give..

Just a side note, roller crank bearings (etc), can be attached to the cover, can be attached (pressed on) to the crank. Just depends on the manufacturer. In any event/style, the case should come off with or W/O the bearing (if equipped)

All those gaskets can be hand made with some gasket matrial and a ball peen hammer ..... I just made 2 not long ago for a Greyhound engine which is a pre Predator engine...... The 2 I made were the sump gaskets like you want to change........

Thanks all for help and advices so quickly !

The good new is I was able to open the crankcase cover ! :smile:
The "not so good" new is that was with unconventional method... as you can see below I had to use the 2mm play I had on the shaft to put some wood spacers between cover and case, gradually increasing thickness and hammer a bolt at the end of crankshaft. This is not good for the bearing but this is what it is... the crankshaft is tight on the bearing : no micrometer but measured 25mm for... a 6205 bearing. And the shaft is really clean, used oil and spray.
So next step will be to find a method to assemble it again ? Think I will put cover in oven at 80-100°Celsius (can't go too hot because of governor gear)




And for the gasket have to clean all very good, after I think to use a sealant like permatex. If someone has a good brand/type as advice let me know.


For model identification, this is a 25mm tapered shaft, has a JLD piston (will try to determine bore and stroke without removing the head) and has an uncommon low oil sensor with wire going under the flywheel. All Chonda I have seen has it on the side, like GX serie. I have a very rare engine I should say :frown:
Carburetor look like Yamaha MZ175, and clone style Sumec. But crankcase like nothing I seen (3 bolt on the cylinder region)

I really don't use permatex or silicone on the sump cover....... Just the gasket will do fine..... On some I do use a very micro thin Ultra black just to hold the gasket in place real good....

Well that appears to be a pretty HD engine.

Also, when ready to re-assemble, put the crankshaft (engine) in the freezer for awhile. That'll shrink down the crank a bit and make assembly easier. (I had some parts, same issue as yours, but I left one part out in the hot Florida sun ((warmed it good)), and with the freezer, easily popped together. W/O doing that, it wouldn't go back together W/O hammering.)

That side cover gasket is toast. As noted, break out the gasket paper.