Can you help me to identify a generator motor ?

Mkala · Jan 6, 2019

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:
I really don't use permatex or silicone on the sump cover....... Just the gasket will do fine..... On some I do use a very micro thin Ultra black just to hold the gasket in place real good....

My idea was in place of the gasket, see below

SRTsFZ6 said:
Well that appears to be a pretty HD engine.

Also, when ready to re-assemble, put the crankshaft (engine) in the freezer for awhile. That'll shrink down the crank a bit and make assembly easier. (I had some parts, same issue as yours, but I left one part out in the hot Florida sun ((warmed it good)), and with the freezer, easily popped together. W/O doing that, it wouldn't go back together W/O hammering.)

That side cover gasket is toast. As noted, break out the gasket paper.

The problem is I can't find a gasket, so only two solutions : make my own with paper gasket material or use sealant only, without gasket - as it is now done with sump covers in automotive industry.

But I don't have much experience on sealant in place of gasket. I know it's working on cars, I don't know if in small engine aluminum block it will be great. I think both of you can tell me what should be good to do ? :smile:

SRTsFZ6, yes this engine does not look bad at all !

Bearing on both sides, low oil shutdown (that is working), full cast flywheel, lot of screws for the sump cover, looks well built. Just complicated to identify and find spares, unlike for example 168F where you can find all you need.
The bottom of the bore looks nice for what I can see, will try to look better

ILENGINE · Jan 6, 2019

The gasket on side covers and sumps is used to set the end play in the crankshaft, and if too tight can cause other issues. So it is advisable to replace a gasket with a gasket for places that have end play.

Boudreaux In Eunice La. · Jan 6, 2019

All those gaskets can be hand made with some gasket material and a ball peen hammer ..... I just made 2 not long ago for a Greyhound engine which is a pre Predator engine......

(Account Closed) · Jan 6, 2019

Plus 1 to both posts ^^^^.

That gasket does shimming.

If it NEVER had a gasket, case sealer (I use Yamabond #4) would be fine for metal on metal.

Take your time trimming, cut out the center. Once you have some outside holes punched and bolted, it's usually pretty easy to go around the perimeter with a small ball peen hammer, tapping the gasket material up against the outside edge of the block.

Leaves a nice outline or tap till the gasket separates in the form you need it to be...

Boudreaux In Eunice La. · Jan 6, 2019

SRTsFZ6 said:
Plus 1 to both posts ^^^^.

That gasket does shimming.

If it NEVER had a gasket, case sealer (I use Yamabond #4) would be fine for metal on metal.

Take your time trimming, cut out the center. Once you have some outside holes punched and bolted, it's usually pretty easy to go around the perimeter with a small ball peen hammer, tapping the gasket material up against the outside edge of the block.

Leaves a nice outline or tap till the gasket separates in the form you need it to be...

We work on outboards also, actually the main biz is outboards...... We use Honda Bond to put the engines back together.....

(Account Closed) · Jan 7, 2019

Boudreaux In Eunice La. said:
We work on outboards also, actually the main biz is outboards...... We use Honda Bond to put the engines back together.....

I work on about everything. Yesterday did a valve check AND adjustment (shim and bucket) on my Yamaha FZ6. 14 valves were in spec, the last two exhaust valves were tight by .001". Had to use my Yamabond on the side cam chain cover.

Also recently used the Yamabond on the crankcase halfs of an Echo chain saw that had a "crankshaft stuffer" come loose and lock up the engine...

The Honda and Yamaha stuff are likely very close to the same..

The last two pic's are of the Echo CS 355 chain saw, the first two are of my Yamaha FZ6, (in-line 4, two OHVs, 4 valves per cylinder, water cooled). I used the Yamabond on both. Just have to work fairly quick re-assembling.

Ok, back to the original thread, sorry for the de-rail..

Pumper54 · Jan 7, 2019

SRTsFZ6 said:
I work on about everything. Yesterday did a valve check AND adjustment (shim and bucket) on my Yamaha FZ6. 14 valves were in spec, the last two exhaust valves were tight by .001". Had to use my Yamabond on the side cam chain cover.

Also recently used the Yamabond on the crankcase halfs of an Echo chain saw that had a "crankshaft stuffer" come loose and lock up the engine...

The Honda and Yamaha stuff are likely very close to the same..

The last two pic's are of the Echo CS 355 chain saw, the first two are of my Yamaha FZ6, (in-line 4, two OHVs, 4 valves per cylinder, water cooled). I used the Yamabond on both. Just have to work fairly quick re-assembling.

View attachment 42236 View attachment 42237 View attachment 42238 View attachment 42239

Ok, back to the original thread, sorry for the de-rail..

That 4th picture is ugly.
Tom

Mkala · Jan 7, 2019

Ha yes did not think to endplay.. so yes definitively a gasket ! So I will order some material and make one

Thanks for advice. Yes already seen on video how to do it with ball hammer (from Roadking - they do for old engines)

I was able to measure precisely the bore, it's 68mm. I measured stroke from spark plus hole and from piston skirt - and result is 50mm
So bore 68mm x 50mm stroke it's a 181cc engine ! It looks like its a clone of a Mitsubishi GM181 (or GM180 or GM182) - was not able to be 100% sure.
But definitely not an Honda or Clonda / Chonda, they are 160cc (stroke 45) or 200cc (stroke 54).

Now I have to work on carburetor, throttle was stuck full open when I got it (fortunately petcock was broken so I hope nobody run it full throttle).
And the connecting part has some play with the shaft, will try to crimp this together again.

Thanks again for help and advices :smile:

tom3 · Jan 7, 2019

Probably no help at this point but I had a Briggs vertical engine with some excess crank and cam end play, put it together with no sump gasket, sealed with it with regular blue RTV sealer. Worked fine for the last 10 years or so. Amazing stuff I think. I'd do some preassembly and see how it goes together with no gasket, if all is well I'd use sealer only if the gasket is an unobtainum part. Hammering a gasket might not be the best thing with aluminum parts though. I work in a power plant and we do this all the time on the iron and steel cases though. 3 AM and we need to get something together calls for whatever it takes.

(Account Closed) · Jan 7, 2019

Pumper54 said:
That 4th picture is ugly.
Tom

That Echo was destined for the "parts pile" as it was almost completely locked up with all those parts in the bottom end jacking up the crank.

That plastic/metal, is a "crankshaft stuffer", to lower volume in the crankcase for better performance.

I ended up removing the other (fearing it will let loose) and re-assembled.. Runs like a scalded dog!!
My customer has several CS 355's chain saws and you can't tell the difference running them. A short video on that machine all done, assembled and back into service:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/147134237@N06/45591828684/

Can you help me to identify a generator motor ?

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