Honda HRX217-TDA Engine rebuild

Scrubcadet10

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A friend of mine brought by his HRX217 with a GCV160 engine, apparently it's got a loud rod rattle/knock, and wants me to rebuild it, The oil is very very thin and black, might as well be water in their. I was going to look up bore specs and other specifications for it before i start, but i cant find any.I know parts are VERY cheap for it from online dealers. $30 bucks for a crankshaft, which almost has me suspicious. I also noticed the block seems to split in a weird way, kind of catty corner across it.
I Guess stay tuned for any questions i have and pictures.
 

Scrubcadet10

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cant get the @#^@$%! blade adapter off, not even with my 3 prong puller will it come off, soaked it WD-40 for awhile, still nothing..................:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
 

Scrubcadet10

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I guess next step will be using heat
 

FasterZcar

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I did a re-ring of my GCV-160 last year. I ran into the same issue with the blade adapter, wd40 just won’t cut it, you’ll need something like kroil oil or liquid wrench and heat. I recommend taking the bolt that holds the blade adapter on to the hardware store to get some grade 8 bolts of that size in various lengths. I had damaged the head of the factory bolt and bent a lower grade bolt in my attempt to get it off. You’ll need the various lengths because once you get it loss, it’ll still not just come off, you’ll need the different length bolts to continue to use the jaw puller. I had put both blades on the blade adapter very tight to keep from damaging the blade adapter, then used a two-jaw puller to grasp the edges of the blades with the center drive rod on the blade adapter bolt. It took me multiple attempts over several days to get it off.

As for the rebuild, a great set of videos to watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-B-H5tgxd7E . Most people will say that your foolish for rebuilding a throw away engine, but if you have the tools, and don’t spend to much on shop supplies it won’t be to bad. It cost me about $45 to do a re-ring with all new seals, o rings, timing belt, gaskets, GCV190 cast valve cover, and three broken bolts. Add another $30 to that if you need a new crankshaft. If the cylinder ($50) and crankshaft ($30) are both bad, then you might want to look into getting a pulled GCV190 from a pressure washer on ebay for around $110, then just put in the correct crankshaft for the lawnmower, and carb linkages from the GCV160. Don’t try to take the muffler off the engine, I broke both bolts in my attempt to get it off, an impact wrench is your only hope of getting it off. Clean the combustion chamber and valves good when you have it apart, I used MOPAR combustion chamber cleaner with great results.
 

Scrubcadet10

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Thanks for the reply! I watched those same videos!
I found a pitman arm puller i had that would fit around it, and used that tapping with a hammer, still no bueno, i guess ill put the heat to it today.
I'll be sure to give your idea a try too!

You wouldn't happen to know where i can find specs for this engine, mainly Bore diameter and Crankpin journal.
:smile:
 
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cant get the @#^@$%! blade adapter off, not even with my 3 prong puller will it come off, soaked it WD-40 for awhile, still nothing..................:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

Turn your 3 jaw puller into a 2 jaw puller you can get a better bite on it with 2 ...... Do you know how to rearrange the jaws ?? There is a extra arm on the body of the puller and that one lines up with one of the other ones.....

Then get a smaller bolt to go into the adapter 1 size smaller is fine if it slips right into the hole, then dimple the head of the bolt so the puller bolt don't slip out of it ...... I don't use the bolts that come on the engine, I find that they are too short to use sometimes............
 

Scrubcadet10

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Already beat you too it Boudreaux, that didnt work, even apply heat didn't work..
 

FasterZcar

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You wouldn't happen to know where i can find specs for this engine, mainly Bore diameter and Crankpin journal.
:smile:

I have a paper copy of the shop manual.

img005.jpg , img006.jpg
 
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Already beat you too it Boudreaux, that didnt work, even apply heat didn't work..

Wow a torch didn't work ???? Heat it up real hot and I mean red hot, then hit it with a water hose till it cools down .... That will bust the rust down to a powder.... I have to do that on rider pulley's sometimes .....

Are you sure your threads are not stopping you from the boss to come off ???? That's why I don't use the bolt that holds the boss on there...... I have several bolts with the dimple, but I usually only need one ..........

Plus Tard Mon Ami ~!~!
 

FasterZcar

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On mine, it looked like the woodruff key had rusted itself into the key slot of the blade adapter. I would concentrate on the key slot area, and make sure that your puller is pulling straight off the crank.
 
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