Vanguard Qs

Thanks for the encouragement...no experience with Vanguards so this is a new and more complicated than it needs to be beastie for me. 117 is what I found plugged on #2 carb cleaning...now open/clean. I've also gone through the fuel filter/valve and it is working...free flow of clean gas gets to the carb and drains from the bowl. I'll check the venturi and redouble efforts to clean every orifice I can find and blow it out again with compressed air.
Is there a telltale sign I can check to make sure the governor is set correctly? It lives under the fuel tank. You have to pull the blower/impeller from the crankshaft, unbolt the engine from it's stand and blower housing and move it sideways to get the fuel tank off (1 awkward bolt, no access) so you can see the governor linkage/setup. I've done that once already, but didn't notice anything bent or unhooked in the linkage. Just assumed it was probably correct given the difficulty of getting to it.
The big unknown with this engine/equipment is the husband of the PO...dumb enough to let a tank of gas evaporate into goo/gel, but smart enough to know what a wrench is and possibly use it before fiddling around. Lazy factor unknown...

timster said:

Thanks for the encouragement...no experience with Vanguards so this is a new and more complicated than it needs to be beastie for me. 117 is what I found plugged on #2 carb cleaning...now open/clean. I've also gone through the fuel filter/valve and it is working...free flow of clean gas gets to the carb and drains from the bowl. I'll check the venturi and redouble efforts to clean every orifice I can find and blow it out again with compressed air.
Is there a telltale sign I can check to make sure the governor is set correctly? It lives under the fuel tank. You have to pull the blower/impeller from the crankshaft, unbolt the engine from it's stand and blower housing and move it sideways to get the fuel tank off (1 awkward bolt, no access) so you can see the governor linkage/setup. I've done that once already, but didn't notice anything bent or unhooked in the linkage. Just assumed it was probably correct given the difficulty of getting to it.
The big unknown with this engine/equipment is the husband of the PO...dumb enough to let a tank of gas evaporate into goo/gel, but smart enough to know what a wrench is and possibly use it before fiddling around. Lazy factor unknown...

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The clogged jet will cause your issue.

With that clean, I would start the engine and see how it runs.

*I would NOT mess with the governor un-less you have other issues.

Some governors can be a PIA to adjust, I wouldn't open that can of worms un-less you have to. \

Very likely, (their usually hidden / hard ti get to), the PO didn't mess with it..

Hmmm...I'll check the main jet again then. After the first cursory cleaning with only carb cleaner, it wouldn't start at all despite clean tank and fresh fuel. New fuel line and 2nd cleaning with compressed air and carb cleaner followed...when the main jet clog was solved. After that it will start but die immediately with air cleaner on and throttle on FAST. With throttle on SLOW, it will run a second or two longer and the governor hunts back and forth. I'm hoping this is all due to gelled ethanol in the tank, I hate the slow process of discovering all the PO's adjustments/tweaks/alterations.

timster said:

Hmmm...I'll check the main jet again then. After the first cursory cleaning with only carb cleaner, it wouldn't start at all despite clean tank and fresh fuel. New fuel line and 2nd cleaning with compressed air and carb cleaner followed...when the main jet clog was solved. After that it will start but die immediately with air cleaner on and throttle on FAST. With throttle on SLOW, it will run a second or two longer and the governor hunts back and forth. I'm hoping this is all due to gelled ethanol in the tank, I hate the slow process of discovering all the PO's adjustments/tweaks/alterations.

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I thought(post above this one), that you found crap in the main jet and cleaned it.

In any event, make sure the tank is spotless, if an in-tank fuel filter-it's clean.

That main jet MAY have two small holes going SIDEWAYS THRU IT. If so, make sure you can see light thru it.

Seems now your getting a little fuel to the engine, but the main (and it's orifices) have to be clear for full power/RPMs.


I gather you are getting fuel to the bowl (if you loosen the bowl bolt, fuel comes out)?

It is getting fuel...fresh, clean gas from the bowl drain when openend. Don't remember seeing side orifices on the main jet...just one small one that was clogged, now open.

If no progress or your going in again, check that jet for a very small hole going sideways thru it.

On current B&S engines, almost all of them have it.

I'm not sure about yours but it can be easily missed..

Got it running. Pulled bowl, pulled main jet & it was clean/open. Note for others: only one orifice on this main jet and it mates to a similar orifice in a secondary Venturi tube that adjoins the main riser tube surrounded by the float. Blew out all the holes with carb cleaner...including the main jet after I checked and reinstalled it. Put it back together and it started without air cleaner and with air cleaner. Also ran with and without the tank cap so that rules out the tank vent being clogged. Idles good and throttles up and down smooth so governor must be good. FAST didn’t sound like 3600 rpm but it is a quiet engine...muffler looks pretty complex. Thanks for the help, advice and encouragement.

Congrates!

Seems this cleaning did it. Apparently the orifice going upwards from the main was the issue.

They do sell cheap tachometers that clip over the spark plug wire(s) to check RPM's.

This is what I use and on most engines I encounter, the RPMs are set way too low:



Besides helping to adjust the high RPMs on a mower engine, helps a bunch adjusting two stroke engine carbs.

Broke down an ordered a Chinese wonder digital photo small engine tach this morning off the auction site. Can't go wrong for the price as long as I don't drop it...No Dropse, No Dropse!
From what I read the Vanguard 6.5 has a fixed rpm...tops out at 3800. If it's anywhere near that I'll use it as is on the Cyclone Rake. If not, lessons on over-riding the governor begin.
Thanks again.

timster said:

Broke down an ordered a Chinese wonder digital photo small engine tach this morning off the auction site. Can't go wrong for the price as long as I don't drop it...No Dropse, No Dropse!
From what I read the Vanguard 6.5 has a fixed rpm...tops out at 3800. If it's anywhere near that I'll use it as is on the Cyclone Rake. If not, lessons on over-riding the governor begin.
Thanks again.

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Might want to double check the top end RPMs. Call Briggs directly.

Almost every 4 stroke I've encountered, lawn mower type engine top speed is 3,600. (This is NOT counting 4 stroke blowers, etc.)

I'd bet your actual RPMs right now is under 3,000 from your description. Cranking it up to 3,600 makes a BIG DIFFERENCE..

Per Briggs (I called awhile ago), they stated the RPM's to be approx. 200 RPM's lower to lower the "BLADE SPEED" (safety reasons) for my 7HP Intek. It's set at just shy of 3,600 NOW.

I would not be setting the governor to run more than that or you'll shorten the life of the engine...Torque and HP goes down past that RPM...

Most of the newer engines, the governor adjustment is much simpler with just a simple spring. They'll be a tab the spring attaches to (with the governor/throttle plate). Bending that tab so the spring is TIGHTER, raises the RPM's. **I do NOT know if this is the case for your particular engine but very likely is...

Plz post back what your actual RPMs are and adjustment.