Toro Z Master 453 48" model 74417 starter-relay wiring question

Recently, my mower was stopped after mowing and when I pushed in the PTO button apparently it did not go all the way down and I did not notice as it appeared the blades stopped turning and turned off the ignition switch. Now after it cooled off, it just clicked when trying to start the mower to store in my utility room. I much later discovered the PTO switch slightly up and pushed it in but the mower cranks but sounds noisy and not really trying to start. I believe the clutch might be stuck partially engaged. I had removed the starter-relay before discovering the PTO button issue and now forget which of the two small wires goes on top of the four prong starter-relay (solenoid). The large red wires are no issue but I am uncertain if the black wire goes on the upper connection or the blue wire. Any help appreciated.

My mower has about 500 hours on the unit. My Parts Catalog shows this switch as a Switch-Solenoid 1-513075. My Operator's Manual shows this in the electrical Schematic as a Solenoid with a black wire running to a ground and a blue wire to a Start-Relay. Looking at these wires it is difficult to determine exacrtly where they run since they are feeding into an enclosed protective sleeve plus no indication which terminal is the ground terminal. Also, how long can I expect these clutches to work without replacing? I did read up on performing an ohm test on the clutch but wanted to wait to see if some pro can help with my issue since it is raining were I live on and off right now and my mower is covered outdoors and not generally accessable.

When reattaching the two small wires to the starter solenoid, they at not polarity sensitive, you may attach them to either terminal. I doubt you did any damage leaving the PTO switch half engaged. If the ignition switch was off, when you finished mowing, no current should have entered any other part of the system.

Rivets said:

When reattaching the two small wires to the starter solenoid, they at not polarity sensitive, you may attach them to either terminal. I doubt you did any damage leaving the PTO switch half engaged. If the ignition switch was off, when you finished mowing, no current should have entered any other part of the system.

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I do appreciate your response. Tomorrow, hopefully my weather will be such that I can again try to start the mower. It sure did not sound like it wanted to start. The battery is almost new and fully charged.

I have a new problem with my Toro Z 453 Model 74417 48" cut mower. The carburetor start solenoid switch is bad so I ordered a new one but not yet received. The wiring schematic in the operator manual does not display the correct wiring as best that I can determine. My mower has a green and black wire going to the two prong terminal on this solenoid. The schematic shows one pink wire. I was going to cut down this plunger inside the solenoid and just reattach but I do not understand how this is wired. If someone out there can provide help it would be appreciated.

Also, where is the seat switch? I can see a switch attached directly under the seat but no wires are attached and I cannot find a switch under the seat but the mower engine will definitely shut-off if you are not seated.

Hep if you have information.

I assume you are talking about the fuel shut off solenoid on the bottom/ side of the carby.
They come in 2 types
Electrically insulated requiring both a power & ground wire
and
Grounded by the case , requiring only one power wire.

The solenoid is spring loaded closed.

Yes this is the solenoid on the carburetor and it has two wires feeding the unit. One is green and the other one is black. I thought that I could just eliminate this by cutting off the spring loaded plunger to the face of the thread then reinstalling in the carb. Can I just cut the green wire and see if the engine will start. Now it just cranks but starves for fuel.

They are not manditory down here yet.
We go to tier II on July 1 2020 and they are tier III
So yes you can just cut the plunger off and the solenoid is defeated.
OR just replace it with a bolt from a pre solenoid carb.
Assemble the carb with the float bowl removed and crank the engine
check for a good flow from the float valve and also check that the float valve will cut off the fuel before it touched the top of the carb.

A simple test is to remove the spark plug (s) and put a LITTLE fuel down the plug holes, refit the plugs & crank the engine.
Engine fires then the ignition timing is good
Now spray some starting fluid down the carb throat
Engine fires then the vales are good and your carb is the problem.

Once I cut the solenoid screw down and reinsert, do I reconnect the two wires into the terminal on the solenoid or leave it tied off? I just do not understand exactly how this works.
There is little room to even get to this solenoid. I had to remove the heavy back plate and take four screws out of the muffler cover so I could displace it ever so slightly to get an open end wrench on the solenoid. I also had to remove a deflector plate under the carb to gain access to the carb.

Last year when I replaced the starter solenoid it was difficult to get my hands down the frame to even remove the attached wires. Everything is o compact on this model Toro mower. I still have not found the seat switch.

Also, this mower occasionally experiences the starter continuing to turn after the engine fires off. Even turning the ignition switch off does not stop the starter. Eventually, after maybe five seconds it finally quits turning the starter. I am not sure if this is a starter solenoid issue or ignition switch or maybe the starter itself.

No need to connect the wires once you have clipped the plunger off.
Just remember that green (?) wire will be +12 V every second that the key is on so tape it up out of the way.

The starting solenoid is similar construction.
Two heavy contacts kept apart by a big spring which gets compressed when the trigger wire gets voltage.
The voltage to the trigger is a daisy chain from the key to the PTO to the brake.
So if the starter is still energised when the brake is OFF or the blades are ON then the starting solenoid is sticky and needs replacing.

They are expensive items so lots of people go to Amazon/ebay & get trash Chinese ones that fail in a very short time.

I appreciate your responses. You are across the world from me in Australia. I am a sort of genealogist always searching from relatives and not too long back came across a man in Perth in my line and we are in contact often. We still have not figured out exactly how we are connected although we suspect the ancestor but still nothing confirmed. Anyway, I thank you for taking the time to answer my questions.